Impact wrench recommendations?

[Ductard]

My Milwaukee 1/2 gun makes more torque than my Cummins! https://youtu.be/gZCtecwq5tc
700 ft lbs.

Hmm...not saying I've resigned myself to spending $250....but in looking into the Milaukee....you'd expect the only difference between these two models (2763-22 and 2762-22) to be the pin detent vs. friction ring, but the pin detent one has 350 ft-lbs (mode 1), 600 ft-lbs (mode 2) and 1,100 ft-lbs of nut-busting, the friction ring model has 100/700/no "nut busting" torque listed.

I suppose it doesn't matter for my purposes, since I'll be using it to take off but not put-on, 700 or 600 ft/lbs should be plenty either way, and definitely 1,100 of nut-busting torque should crush anything.

[Ductard]

More generally, should I go for the pin detent or friction ring?

My use seems to be in-between the applications for the two versions, if I only use it for changing my rear tire, I don't need to change sockets often, but at the same time, I won't be working overhead or anywhere else it would be likely to fall off.

Also, I don't think the particular socket for the rear wheel nut has an indentation for the pin detent...

..but then again, I'm looking for which version is generally better for the type of use it's likely to see down the road.... if I buy a $250 tool, I don't want to buy it based on a $30 socket, or my current, single need. I want to buy the one I'm not going to regret 3 years down the road, when I grab it for some job I'm not even considering now.

...or is this one of those "can't go wrong either way" things?

[sedanman]

Pin detent is safer but sometimes a pain in the ass. I think there is a little bit of cut-paste error on the website. The 2 "fuel" guns are identical from the anvil back. The only difference is the retention system.

[Ductard]

Pin detent is safer but sometimes a pain in the ass. I think there is a little bit of cut-paste error on the website. The 2 "fuel" guns are identical from the anvil back. The only difference is the retention system.

Ok, cool. I figured...looks like somebody was overall sloppy filling in the description (fields like size filled in on one and not the other).

The question tho, is which torque #'s are "right"?

I suppose that for all practical purposes, there's not a lot of difference between 600 & 700 ft lbs/ especially if "nut busting" torque is over 1,000 ft. lbs.

[sedanman]

I just looked at the manual and did noticed the IS a diffence on the 2 guns in power setting 1 (pin style stronger), they are the same in level 2. I look at the expense like this, my old Makita cordless tools lasted 15 years used daily as an auto mechanic. Should easily get the same or more from the Milwaukee. By the time you get done you're going to be close to 350 dollars invested. If you only get 10 years out of it, it cost you 35 bucks a year to know that there isn't a bolt on anything you own that you can't break free.

[ZX-12R]

More generally, should I go for the pin detent or friction ring?

If you can find a store where you can handle a floor model, it may be worth trying them both out. There are a lot of people in various automotive forums that complain about how difficult it is to remove a socket on a pin detent Milwaukee impact wrench. My neighbor has one and I can confirm that it can be a struggle to remove a socket but it isn't a show stopper. My pneumatic rattle gun uses a friction ring with no issues so if it were my money, I would buy the friction ring model.

[sedanman]

Also if you have a well stocked Home Depot they will have the friction ring brushless model in stock but not the pin version.

[Ductard]

Also if you have a well stocked Home Depot they will have the friction ring brushless model in stock but not the pin version.

Given the infrequent use this is likely to see, you think would it still be foolish to save 50 bucks by going with the brushed model?

On top of differences in motor robustness, Millwaukee's (apparently unreliable) website lists the peak torque at 450 ft lbs. on the brushed model.... while that might not take off any nut known to man, that should be enough to get the job done, no?

Compare Products | Milwaukee Tool

[sedanman]

"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten " Benjamin Franklin

Which is not to saythe brushed model is low quality but you get the point. What's 50 bucks spread out over the life of the tool?

[snwbrdr435]

The rear axle nuts on my westy get torqued to 360 Ft/lbs After snapping the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter I said screw it an bought an I/R 3/4 impact and zipped that fucker right off. I think its peak torque is near 1k ft/lbs i could be wrong. Beats standing 9 ft away on a metal pipe...

[typeone]

i don't know if it fits your need completely but i'm very happy with my Kobalt 8-Amp 1/2-in Variable Speed Corded Impact Wrench from Lowes. nabbed it for under $150 on sale i think. i've used it for all kinds of shit from truck > bike. bought it 5 or 6 years ago, still works like new.

[Garandman]

The rear axle nuts on my westy get torqued to 360 Ft/lbs After snapping the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter I said screw it an bought an I/R 3/4 impact and zipped that fucker right off. I think its peak torque is near 1k ft/lbs i could be wrong. Beats standing 9 ft away on a metal pipe...

On other forums in discussions like this, Ingersoll Rand is the gold standard. I was surprised to see they now have 20V cordless.

ingersoll rand impact wrench cordless

[Rambunctous]

Are they any good? I have a $50 Craftsman 1/2" unit and it's rubbish. Unless the bolt/nut is 75 ft-lbs or less it doesn't do jack shit. And that's with a 3/8" air line and 120psi of pressure and a full tank...

I got a 110V Craftsman 1/2 drive for 15 bucks at a yard sale. It works awesome. The reason is cause it is old. When Craftsman was USA.

[sedanman]

^^^^ This ^^^^^ I would not buy ANYTHING that plugs into an outlet from Craftsman or Kenmore. I once had a friend call to borrow my Craftsman circular saw after his burst into flames while he was using it, l had to say no because mine had just done the same thing an hour before.

[Ductard]

My Milwaukee 1/2 gun makes more torque than my Cummins! https://youtu.be/gZCtecwq5tc
700 ft lbs.

I had the Milwaukee in my hand at Home Depot today. But, it was going to be $220 + $150 for batt/charger + Tax...

As the guy was talking about how you can take the lug nuts off of earth movers with it, I just realized, I shouldn't spend $400 for what I need.

I'm a desk jockey, I will probably never remove a lug nut from an earth mover.

Most of the other cordless are in the $200 range with battery & charger, so I'm actually thinking about going with a pneumatic at this point. For like $35, I can get a 300 ft lb model, which might be cutting it close, or for ~$75, I can get ~600 ft lbs.

That will work for me when I'm at NHMS, which is where I am under pressure to do a quick tire change. At NYST, they have air I can use. I don't know about other places (Thompson, Palmer, NJMP) but for $35-75, I might take my chances that I occasionally might need to go the breaker bar / pipe route.

[Stromper]

Cheapo air compressor with a tank about $100*

Cheapo air tools my impact plus rodac cost like 70

Get bigggish air hose to develop full torque

*tank air used for seating tire beads plus other fun

[sedanman]

Ok. If you're going to go pneumatic, the most vang for the buck will be a used Ingersoll Rand plastic housing gun like a 2131 etc. These guns take a pounding and keep coming back for more. My 2131 has to be 20 years old. There are a few pieces that needed replacement ovver the years but they are cheap (trugger, forward/reverse toggles).Ingersoll Rand IR 1 2 Drive Air Impact Wrench 2131A | eBay Plus this is like buying scuffed leathers or used knee pucks.....INSTANT STREET CRED!

[golden chicken]

Don't skimp on a gun because it's rated 300 ft-lbs and you think that'll get the job done. Even my 780 ft-lb IR 2135QTIMAX won't take some axle bolts out without help from a torch. I go with a breaker bar and a pipe if needed after that.