[nixoid]

Silly question: What are the pros and cons of changing the oil at the end of the season or just before you break her out for the Spring?

I think I've heard something about enzymes.... I've been using Spectro Gold which I believe is a full[?] synthetic. Is this an issue with synthetics?

[HBerry]

change now, use the cheapest oil you can get.
Change again in spring with synthetic

[legalspeed]

I believe SG is a blend.

Change it in the spring if it is not too black. Used oil becomes acidic as it sits. Change it now and you'll have to change it again.

[nixoid]

Change again in spring with synthetic

I have been led to believe that once you go synth you never go back....

Used oil becomes acidic as it sits

If i use it a couple of times this winter [as I tend to do in the off season] does this retard the acidic metamorphisis?

[Currently]

No, just change the cheap oil out.
The acids are formed as byproducts of combustion of the hydrocarbons. Acid rain is caused by exhaust emissions in the air. Acid in the oil is the emissions trapped in the engine.

[ZX-12R]

Originally posted by nixoid
I have been led to believe that once you go synth you never go back....

If i use it a couple of times this winter [as I tend to do in the off season] does this retard the acidic metamorphisis?

You can switch back and forth between synth and dead dino juice. No problems there.

Running your engine increases the acidity as it is the combustion byproducts and thermal breakdown of the oil that decreases its pH level. In the likely time you will have your motorcycle it won't matter a wink when you change your oil so long as you do change it regularly.

[Hardcore]

Originally posted by HBerry
change now, use the cheapest oil you can get.
Change again in spring with synthetic

this moron actually has stated the CORRECT action to take!

[nixoid]

So now the big question is... How many of you guys are going to change your oil now AND later?

[LuvDog]

Not me.

I'll change it now and then ride it out in the spring.

[MsHap]

I ride everyday, so I just change it every 2000 or so miles.

[HBerry]

Originally posted by nixoid
So now the big question is... How many of you guys are going to change your oil now AND later?

I will be on both bikes!

[nixoid]

Alright you guys convinced me... Oil now and in the spring.

[KB]

You guys change your oil???


I just keep adding it!

I also ride it all friking year.

Gerbings what what.............

[FireFly]

Changing it now with fresh oil, dumpin it in the spring and puttin in synthetic

[stoinkythepig]

Don't waste your money, change your oil based on mileage, not time. These acids that are created during combustion are immediately buffered by the oil and do absolutely nothing to your engine. Do you worry about acid in your oil for the 7 months the bike is ridden? Do you know of anyone who lost an engine because acid dissolved internal parts? Neither do I...

[nixoid]

Valid point.... I'm certain the acids won't hurt your metal parts but wgat about seals and gaskets? That is my main concern.

[Currently]

Originally posted by stoinkythepig
Don't waste your money, change your oil based on mileage, not time. These acids that are created during combustion are immediately buffered by the oil and do absolutely nothing to your engine. Do you worry about acid in your oil for the 7 months the bike is ridden? Do you know of anyone who lost an engine because acid dissolved internal parts? Neither do I...

Are you going to keep the bike for a long time or will you trade it in every couple of years?

The acids do not dissolve entire engine parts ...

What they do is etch precision parts like bearings and the surfaces they roll on causing premature failure. When an engine winds up to a 15 thousand RPM red line, everything has to be perfect!

Yes ... you are absolutely right when you say the oil immediately buffers and neutralizes the acids on combustion ... for the first 3k miles that is. That buffering ability does wear out.

So if you have 5k on that last oil change and store it for the winter with the old oil in, some of the buffering has been exhausted and there is minute amounts of free acids in the oil that will etch bearing surfaces. That is why the owners manual wants you to change the oil before storing for the winter. It is the difference of getting 30k miles out of a bike engine versus 100k miles.

So if you want to keep the bike for 5 or more years, follow the OEM routine. You want to trade it in or move on to something better, save the 15 bucks and dump it on some unsuspecting buyer. That is why I never buy used unless I really know the machine.

[nixoid]

I believe in MC Karrma... If I treat my machines well I believe I will be rewarded in kind.

Besides, I'd rather keep as many machines floating around running as well as they can.

[stoinkythepig]

I got two cars, three bikes, a boat, a lawn tractor, a lawn mower, a generator, a pressure washer etc. to maintain. I use Mobil 1 in all of them and change at long intervals/high miles. So far so good, none of them have worn out yet. I'm told the buffering capacity of motor oil outlasts the viscosity and shear resistance by a large margin and I believe it.

You'll never go wrong changing oil too much so do what makes ya happy.

[MnM]

Heres a ??

What if it has sat for a couple weeks and you decided to change the oil. Being so cold and street conditions you don't want to ride it on the street.

Do you just change the oil and don't start it, and then let the bike run (even go through a couple gears while on a stand) with the new oil for a few?

[nixoid]

Do you just change the oil and don't start it, and then let the bike run (even go through a couple gears while on a stand) with the new oil for a few?

Yeah... I'm pretty curious about that myself. I would think you would want to run it for a very short amount of time. Just long enough to coat all of the parts with some new oil[?]

[HBerry]

Start it and let it run. It would also be a good time to put fuel stabil in so that can go through the system.

[nixoid]

The biggest reason I would think you would just want to do a quick start/ stop is to avoid the chemical reaction of combustion/ thermal breakdown but... I guess I am overthinking it. running it for 10 mins on idle isn't going to really break down the oil.

I just take preventative maintainence just a seriously as repair

[Hardcore]

you guys are missing the actual point---it is NOT the oil that has broken down causing a problem--the problem is the "emisions" trapped in the crankcase--these"emisions (water,acid,chemical shit,Etc.) seperate from the oil + rest seperately--where these "emisions" contact the metal wearable parts causes detioration---in order to get these emissions out you must get oil hot by running it in order to remix the emissions with the oil then drain the oil + change the filter!

then-- add your oil (+ filter), disable the ignition(NO FUEL mainly),+ crank the engine over to coat parts with oil---this step is only a safety precaution since the oil will drain off all metal parts not submerged anyhow!
as long as you previously drained the oil while HOT, you'll be ok without spinning the motor over now


ps-when adding your new oil, make sure to get EVERY drop from container because those last drops are where the viscosity settles

[ZX-12R]

Originally posted by hardcore
ps-when adding your new oil, make sure to get EVERY drop from container because those last drops are where the viscosity settles

With synthetics the viscosity settles on top!