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#1
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| Mityvac question Ok, I have a metal Mity-Vac setup. Works great.. but I have a question about it. Mine has a jar, a hose to connect the pump to the jar, a hose to connect the jar to the bleed valve, and a whole bunch of smaller fittings & hoses to adapt stuff. A little while ago I had to rebleed my clutch after getting a lot of air in it. It took a lot of fluid to get it right again. So what happens is: 1) I start bleeding, initially I suck out dirty fluid, empty the jar 2) Once that's done I'm pumping clean fluid into the jar 3) I have no way to send the clean fluid back into the master cylinder easily, so I fill from my container of fresh fluid. The thing here is I wasted fluid. No big deal as I still only used like .4L of fluid or so. But what what I get to set it up so the fluid went from the pump right back to the master cylinder so as to not waste any fluid? Is this even possible with a little handpump? Is it worth it? The way I do it I waste a little fluid, but I'm absolutely sure the fluid going into the system is 100% clean brand new fluid. |
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#2
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| Mityvac question It is possible, but it might be easier to remove the Mity-vac from the system and just use a longer piece of hose. Attached the hose to the bleeder valve, and make sure it is secure. Open the bleeder and pump out the dirty fluid into a jar using the lever, replacing with clean. When enough clean has been added - Put the other end of the hose in the fluid resevoir so that the end of the hose is completely submerged. Open the bleeder valve and slowly pump the lever, make sure the level in the resevoir stays above the end of the hose, and watch the bubbles. When no air comes out for a while, shut the bleeder and remove the hose.
__________________ SSearchVT For every action there is an equal but opposite reaction - and sometimes a scar... |
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#3
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| Mityvac question Just use new fluid, don't bother reusing any of it. Just because it's clear doesn't mean it's clean.
__________________ -Clayton LRRS #520 AM 2001 Kawasaki ZRX1200R 2001 Honda CR125R 1993 Kawasaki KLR650 1988? Honda XR80R Pit Bike 1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport 1996 Kawasaki EX500 "Racer" 199? Kawasaki EX500 "Less Crappy Racer" |
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#4
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| Mityvac question Quote:
__________________ |
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#5
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| Mityvac question I've used a mityvac before, and I'll be honest... not a big fan. I get better brake pressure just doing it the ol' fashioned way. Did you notice any spongeyness after your mity-bled them?
__________________ They should call Production Twins what it really is, Shitty McBikefest. Rules for Participation: If your bike runs lower laptimes than a lawnmower, you are not eligibile for Shitty McBikefest. -Darrell Alex Pearsall #121 ESMRA / #512 LRRS |
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#6
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| Mityvac question Degsy trick clamp your brake handle up over night tie zap it or how ever. Release the brake handle & you will be amazed how well your brakes work. Quote:
__________________ www.bostonmoto.com Forum Rules Heres a condom. I figured since youre acting like a dick, you should dress like one too. |
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#7
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| Mityvac question For mity vac to work, good the bleeder should be removed entirely and the tapered nozzle making a seal with the hole. If you have a helper and you have leakproof connections you can get a flow going constantly topping of the reservoir as it drains. The hope that the flow will entrain the bubbles and flush them out withthe fluid Even after its "GOOD" I come back a few days later after a ride and bleed the bango fitting at the master. Then its really solid. I think that the micro bubbles migrate up there over time |
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#8
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| Mityvac question So this thread is ancient now.. I did end up getting my brakes working really well with the MityVac. I had a little issue with being a tard and not having my front wheel perfectly aligned in the forks. Fixed that and my brakes feel great now. (That was months ago too) |
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