[rebelpacket]

2001 KTM 520SX. Have known the short oil screen has been stuck for awhile. Been putting it off, knowing it will suck. Everything I tried only made the head worse. Bolt hasn't moved yet.

My best idea (short of trying an EDM/Helicoil which I'd rather not do) is to weld a nut onto the bottom of it. I'm not exactly what you'd call and expert TIG welder, but I've put some things together fairly well, and figure I'll give it a shot.

Question is should I just ground to the case? How long do I have before I start melting aluminum? Never welded a steel bolt in an aluminum case. Trying to play it safe.

Thoughts?

[beet]

Al i'm just a chickin scratcher, but i've welded lots plows & use a aluminum rod to put the hole in just the right place & it don't melt the rod not sure why? But if it was me I would ground to the steel the heat may transfer if you ground to the case.

[rebelpacket]

Thanks Beet. I'm trying to think of ways to get my big ass grounding clip on a little tiny bolt and nut. That was my fear that the heat grounded to the aluminum cases might melt/warp something.

[oreo_n2]

steel melting point is roughly double that of aluminum. so be very careful.

Heat transfers through steel fast and aluminum faster. you could get away with a quick tack weld... followed by water cooling, then repeat... maybe. I dont think heat at the grounding clip will be a big deal... as long as there is a real good connection... grounding to the bolt seems sketchy.
i dont know... the threads in the case might melt along with the plastic body of the screen inside ... imagine the goo all over the inside of your case. ick.

what about some left hand drills? or just some heat from a torch? impact tools?
i take it you've already exhausted all other possibilities??

[rebelpacket]

Hey Brent!

When I first tried to take it off, I was using a 8mm allen, and slowly but steadily giving it force, and it started to round ever so slightly. I stopped immediately and started researching other options. So I put a bunch of valve lapping paste on the end of a new 8mm key, and hit it with the impact wrench. The wrench made lots of noises, nothing happened, and then 'zooop!' promptly rounded off what remained. I then tried jb-welding the allen key onto the bolt, and carefully tried to free the bolt again. The jb-weld just shattered.

Then I tried to make a little groove, and chisel it. That did nothing.

So now my options are:

Weld a nut to the bolt, drill a 1/2" hole, and try a left-hand thread/easy-out or a screw extractor. This bolt is in there GOOD. I've already got a replacement from Zip-Ty racing.

[oreo_n2]

i cant keep a straight face with "The Nuge" looking back at me.

seriously... i think drilling is the way to go. go to napa and get a set of left twist bits... start small and work your way up. hopefully its only a grade 5 bolt in there.

[beet]

I think I would drill it & Brent smells of shit.

[oreo_n2]

I LEARNED IT fROM WatCHING youAlRIGHT!!!!

Get FUCT!

[rebelpacket]

Cool. Good point. Even if I try the extractor and it doesn't work, I can still weld a bolt on. Use that as a last resort.

[rebelpacket]

Whoops. Carefully trying to drill to use the extractor. Drilled right through the bolt. Worst season ever.

[oreo_n2]

thats fine... now get a bigger bit and keep enlarging it.
dont worry about those goofy extractors until there is a large diameter hole in the bolt... i bet it comes loose before you get to the point where you need the extractor.

[rebelpacket]

No no... Like up through the bolt, into the oil screen.

[Tricky Mike]

I once pounded a Torx driver into an appropriately sized hole... It's hardened steel, so the bolt should deform around it and give it a decent purchase. I was surprised how much torque I was able to apply... May be one of your options to try befor the last resort... Have you also heated the case? Used some penetrant? Those damn screen bolts freak me out every time. They always take tons of torque.

[oreo_n2]

Originally Posted by rebelpacket

No no... Like up through the bolt, into the oil screen.

i dont think thats a big deal. you need a new screen... true... but compared to the cost and aggravation of the alternatives... you're doing ok... now keep opening the hole til you can get the remains of the bolt out with your screw extractor or hammered in hex or torx bit.

[JeffL]

Originally Posted by oreo_n2

i dont think thats a big deal. you need a new screen... true... but compared to the cost and aggravation of the alternatives... you're doing ok... now keep opening the hole til you can get the remains of the bolt out with your screw extractor or hammered in hex or torx bit.

Yeah, used to have to do this with galvenized piping for steam boilers. Essentially just drill the bolt out till you have nothing left by the threads, and then simply just pry/chisel them out of the casing. Basically just drill a large enough diameter hole that with the amount of bolt left, its essentially paper thin and will just fold off the walls of the bolt hole.

[rebelpacket]

I gave in. I already broke an easy-out in the bolt, so I took it to my local dirt shop. While I was talking to them about it, they mentioned their internet was down. I said I could give a hand. We had a race to see who could get the bolt out quickest, or get the internet back up. I lost. In two minutes flat, the chief tech at Strictly Dirt had that bolt out.

I guess sometimes it pays to not DIY?

[JeffL]

Originally Posted by rebelpacket

I gave in. I already broke an easy-out in the bolt, so I took it to my local dirt shop. While I was talking to them about it, they mentioned their internet was down. I said I could give a hand. We had a race to see who could get the bolt out quickest, or get the internet back up. I lost. In two minutes flat, the chief tech at Strictly Dirt had that bolt out.

I guess sometimes it pays to not DIY?

At least its out!

Did you get their net back up? lol

[oreo_n2]

NICE!

[Tricky Mike]

Glad to hear it... I was about to suggest a left-handed tap and bolt

[beet]

Originally Posted by rebelpacket

I gave in. I already broke an easy-out in the bolt, so I took it to my local dirt shop. While I was talking to them about it, they mentioned their internet was down. I said I could give a hand. We had a race to see who could get the bolt out quickest, or get the internet back up. I lost. In two minutes flat, the chief tech at Strictly Dirt had that bolt out.

I guess sometimes it pays to not DIY?

You losened it up for him. I find if someone can i can better or just as good!

[beet]

Beet believes that all of life's problems, big and small can be solved with several well placed sticks of dynamite. "Your wife left you? Blow up the stove. Otherwise you'll start cooking for yourself and that's dangerous." Beet is hard of hearing, short several fingers, and not really big on safety, but he remains confident that with enough explosive you can overcome anything life throws at you.

[ssg]

how'd they do it?

[richw]

I was going to suggest your own real impact driver

Apply as much twisting torque as you can while the top is exposed. Or using a cut of sharp allen wrench. Grind off any worn spot on the allen key leaving only sharp edges and bottom

a second person wack it hard with at least a 2 lb hammer. The instant that the hammer energy is sent down the bolt the threads are relaxed and will turn.


Like Moe Larry and Curly....When I nod my head you hit it