[l3uddha]

never worked on brakes before...

I'm going to be installing a new master cylinder & bleeding the lines this weekend.

any tips, tricks, or things I should look out for? I'm not using one of those little speed-bleader or mighty-vac gadgets.


I haven't really taken the time to look up the instructions & print them out just yet. Know of a good write-up of the process?

the two lines connect at the master via a banjo bolt, rather than a single connection & the line splits half-way down. So I start bleeding at the far caliper correct?

[RyanNicholson]

someone on here must have a bleeder you can borrow, it makes life SO much easier and gets it done in 1/10th the time.

actually if you want...i've got one. we can do it when you get in town tuesday night or something.

[mycirus]

You can borrow mine if you want to come to Whitinsville and get it. Its wicked easy and quick.

Bruce

[Supah Dave]

You'll be kicking yourself in the nuts if you try to do it without a speed bleeder vac...

[Currently]

Originally Posted by Supah Dave

You'll be kicking yourself in the nuts if you try to do it without a speed bleeder vac...

Actually you will be scarred for life, turned into a homeless bum with PTSD drinking Mad Dog 20/20 to relieve the pain.

Do take these people up on their offer.

[Wishbone]

Don't worry a nissin master won't work with a gs500 that has kawi forks

[jamotech741]

well if your just replacing the master it wont take too long to bleed. If I were to do it, id remove the master, replace the master while not letting all the fluid drain out of the line. Now I would remove the calipers and compress the pistons with the fluid resevior open, this will force the air in the system up ,and out pretty easily as you only changed the master, not downward into the calipers where sometimes bubbles can get caught up. Now just bleed normally, starting with the master first if it has a bleeder, then start with the caliper that has the outermost fitting on the banjo at the master (you already knew that). You can use a tool but since your not replacing lines and or calipers the method above will get out 90% of the air before you even start bleeding. Tools are a must when you start with all new or drained stuff, but with your situation its not a big time saver or a must. Oh and as far as the manual bleeding goes, quicly pump the brake leveruntil you feel the firmness increase, hold it at the bar, open bleeder screw, close bleder screw, repeat. If you dont have a bleeder at the master and your having trouble with getting lever firmness you can bleed the master by cracking the banjo until fluid comes out same procedure as above just crack the banjo instead of opening a bleeder screw, , put a rag beneath. If its not perfect pm me I have a few more tricks that dont require a tool.

[l3uddha]

anyone know who stocks banjo bolts?

mine was old & crusty & just snapped in the master. almost couldnt get it out. took a drill, hammer, & wrench to it and eventually VIOLA! fucker!

now I need a new banjo bolt for a 2002 FZ1 that fits 2 lines on the banjo bolt. can't seem to find one but I'm still looking... furiously.

[l3uddha]

stock FZ1 has one line at the master cylinder

[jamotech741]

Dealership if you have a week to wait, try street and comp, I think they stock goodridge products and they make banjo bolts for everything.

[l3uddha]

yes this seems to be a pretty custom job. I'll have to call streetandcomp tomorrow because for some reason they are closed right now!!!


yea Ryan that would be friggin awesome! I hate to leave it to the last minute like that; I'll try to do what I can here, but if you can give me a hand that'd be great & make it MUCH easier for me.

i'm about to lose it. I need this damn part. hfdwoa;gn;SAjfLSAJfSHfAJFF

[jamotech741]

Originally Posted by l3uddha

stock FZ1 has one line at the master cylinder

Ah yes I reread your post, then yes start with the one furthest down the line, after starting with the master.

[l3uddha]

got my carbs balanced today though. 8 bucks of "parts" from the petco aquarium department.

1 step foreward, 3 steps back hahahHAHAHAHA fuck.

[Currently]

I did warn you above ... when are you going to start drinking the Mad Dog 20/20 or Ripple?

"They're coming to take you away!"

[TLRMan]

Originally Posted by l3uddha

got my carbs balanced today though. 8 bucks of "parts" from the petco aquarium department.

1 step foreward, 3 steps back hahahHAHAHAHA fuck.

Hmmm..and I have a nice set of carb sticks 10 minutes from you, and they don't have mercury or tranny oil in them either...environmentally safe!

BTW a turkey baster works just fine bleeding out brakes too!

[RyanNicholson]

i never thought of the turkey baster....i'd be afraid of shooting air back into the line though haha

but yea lemme know. i think i even have a spare bolt you need too....its just the bolt that holds the 2 lines on together into the master right? i'm pretty sure they're universal for the most part.

[hessogood]

Originally Posted by Supah Dave

You'll be kicking yourself in the nuts if you try to do it without a speed bleeder vac...

I preffer to bleed mine manually. I haven't found a speed bleeder that does the job as well, in my opinion.

[akira700]

The key to the idea of using the turkey baster is to
inject fluid up from the the brake caliper release valve.

The theory is (haven't tried it yet but will most likely soon)
that since air bubbles tend to rise, pouring fluid from the top
down just causes a log jam at the first air bubble. Where if you
fill the system from the bottom, the air will just naturally rise
up with the first of the fluid, making bleeding later less laborious.

I'd think a turkey baster with some PVC flexible hose of the
right size would be the perfect tool for this. Or one of those
industrial syringes that evil doctor's pull out when you've got something
nasty wrong with you !

[RyanNicholson]

that makes sense....i could imagine one of the large syringes would be even better. i've never had a problem using a bleeder though.

[benVFR]

A Mity-Vac probably costs less then the parts your buying.

If you're ever going to do it again it's worth getting one... makes the job really really fast.

[akira700]

I have a Mity Vac too, but at least in my experience its still about an hours worth of time bleeding it so that its really air free.

I mean I feel like I have to evacuate about a full bottle of fluid
all the way through the system before I really get rid of all the air.

[l3uddha]

thanks for all the great info & keep it coming!

street and comp is overnighting me two banjo bolts as we speak so I'm sort of resting easy.... sort of.

but not really because my radar in Japan shit the bed & everything else just went to HELL!

I cant wait to go change my oil tonight and strip the drain screw. just kidding about that though...

Originally Posted by TLRMan

Hmmm..and I have a nice set of carb sticks 10 minutes from you, and they don't have mercury or tranny oil in them either...environmentally safe!

HEY! dont you give me any of that "right tool for the job" bullcrap!

[RyanNicholson]

an hour....really? i usually use about half a bottle when i bleed them and it only takes me like 20 minutes...never had a problem.

sometimes i use the ziptie trick after but even w/o doing that its solid

[RyanNicholson]

Originally Posted by l3uddha

I cant wait to go change my oil tonight and strip the drain screw. just kidding about that though...

strip the drain screw and you're still lucky, i stripped the treads out of my oil pan once....THAT sucked

[l3uddha]

yea I did that to my carb body. got a big kick out of it. I'll never show how I managed to fix it...