[keeena]

Anyone recommend or know of a good bearing removal kit available that will remove most wheel and swingarm bearings? I do know that bearings can sometimes be pounded out from the other side. I've found that some bearings, like the needle bearings on the TLR swinger, can't be removed via this method.

I've read that the more generic internal z-type pullers aren't great (can slip & cause damage)...that the case?

This kit by Motion Pro seems like it might do the job. Thoughts?

Or are bike/mfr-specific tools really the way to go for this type of job?

[rmbbikes]

It's called a socket and extension and a hammer.

KB

[SSearchVT]

If it's got a good lip on it I use a brass drift and a ball peen hammer from the other side. I've seen threaded pullers with collar systems as well as the slide hammer system you found. $188 is a lot to invest if you're not doing it that often. In places where special tools are required to get the job done I'll take the swingarm or other part off the bike and take it to the shop and have them do it.

[keeena]

Originally Posted by rmbbikes

It's called a socket and extension and a hammer.

KB

For installing, yeah. But theres no way that would work for removal...not when the design doesn't allow for the bearing to be punched out from the back side.

[ZX-12R]

The one time I had to remove a blind bearing, I borrowed a tool that my neighbor had made from scratch. He started with a long brass drift and bent the end of it over 90 degrees and partially peened it so it would have a larger surface area. He then then threaded the end and machined a mating plate that threads onto the brass drift giving a flat striking surface. When he uses the tool, he takes a heavy impact socket and slides it onto the drift and then screws the plate on the bottom making it a slide hammer. It's not as efficient as a collet type remover since you have to work the bearing in a circle but it didn't cost him a thing since he made it out of scrap he had laying around.

If you don't want to make one, I found a slide hammer kit with 8 collets for about 80 fewer clams:

Sir Tools - SIRST9006 - 8 Pc. Blind Hole Bearing / Bushing Collet Set with Slide Hammer - DealTime-Direct.com

[rebelpacket]

Not positive what your swingarm looks like, so its tough to reccomend a tool. Is there a hole straight through with a lip retaining the bearing, or is it completely blind (only accessable from one side)?

You can make a bearing press with some threaded rod, a few nuts and washers, and two sockets. (Its what I use to change swingarm bearings). All parts availible at your local home depot or hardware store for around 5$ and some change.

Again though, this may not work, as I have no idea what your swingarm looks like.

[rmbbikes]

Originally Posted by rebelpacket

Not positive what your swingarm looks like, so its tough to reccomend a tool. Is there a hole straight through with a lip retaining the bearing, or is it completely blind (only accessable from one side)?

You can make a bearing press with some threaded rod, a few nuts and washers, and two sockets. (Its what I use to change swingarm bearings). All parts availible at your local home depot or hardware store for around 5$ and some change.

Again though, this may not work, as I have no idea what your swingarm looks like.

I have a home made wrist pin puller that i made the same with a pice of electrical conduit.

Dude we need to open a MC shop service!!! Wanna move to NH and live in my basement? We can convert my 10x12 shed into a workshop.

KB

[rebelpacket]

Originally Posted by rmbbikes

Dude we need to open a MC shop service!!! Wanna move to NH and live in my basement? We can convert my 10x12 shed into a workshop.

KB

Lets do it. Name of the shop could be "Tards with Tools - We'll fix it, or break it trying." As long as you don't make me pay the rent horizontally, I'm down.

[Crash Dummy Denno]

Originally Posted by rmbbikes

It's called a socket and extension and a hammer.

KB

Originally Posted by keeena

For installing, yeah. But theres no way that would work for removal...not when the design doesn't allow for the bearing to be punched out from the back side.

PWND


(i think)

[rmbbikes]

Originally Posted by Smooth R6

PWND


(i think)

I'll punch a bearing out from the backside like it's my yob.

Yeah I said Y O B.

KB

[keeena]

Originally Posted by rmbbikes

I'll punch a bearing out from the backside like it's my yob.

Will your backyard shop have insurance?

[rmbbikes]

Originally Posted by keeena

Will your backyard shop have insurance?

Yup. Brake light insurance. As soon as I can't see your brake light the insurance is up.

KB

[brendanp]

I'm gunna throw my 2Cents in here and you guys can hang me out to dry if ya want. I do not like to punch a bearing out using a hammer and blunt rod.
The bore of the wheel vs the o.d. of the bearing is a close tolorence. Which means the bearing really needs to come out straight. By punching it out from the back, the bearing does not come out straight. The bore of the wheel can get oblonged or stretched if you will. This IMO, is not good.
And no, I'm not talking out of my ass... I been in the machine shop buisness for 22 years.

I'm not saying you "cant" do it, but it is definately not for me....

[CAT3]

I agree with Bren on this one. Out of round race surface will allow the bearing to rotate in its housing, the wheel or swingarm, and will eventually fail. Can it be done, yes, recommended, no.
Also, do not use a brass drift with bearings. The brass is too soft and will splinter however minute, those little splinters work their way into the bearing race and bearing and cause pitting or scorching. Use tool steel if you insist on punching the shit out.
Or, you can successfully use a this tool set, much cheaper than those posted and works very well. Or the slide type, here.

[keeena]

Originally Posted by brendanp

I'm not saying you "cant" do it, but it is definitely not for me....

Do ya have a good universal-ish type of remover that you recommend?

CAT3 - Thanks for the links! One type generally better than the other (slide vs. jaw)? I can see the jaw/screw being slower & more controlled. But I'd think small jaws would be prone to slip.

[brendanp]

Nope...believe it or not, that 14 dollar one from harbor that Cat3 posted will work just fine. The bore to bearing fit is not extremely tight.

[Ryno]

Originally Posted by CAT3

Also, do not use a brass drift with bearings. The brass is too soft and will splinter however minute, those little splinters work their way into the bearing race and bearing and cause pitting or scorching.

You should never re use a bearing that's been pounded out anyway.

[ZX-12R]

Originally Posted by Ryno

You should never re use a bearing that's been pounded out anyway.

And you shouldn't be hitting the brass drift so hard that it would sliver.

[Wishbone]

Originally Posted by ZX-12R

And you shouldn't be hitting the brass drift so hard that it would sliver.

Plus who the hell has a bike long enough to replace a bearing?

Mine are always in the salvage yard from stunnin way before that