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#26
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.Awesome fuckin post, Bro. Thanks! ![]() So when ya comin down to help? ![]() |
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#27
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.Quote:
![]() What a bitch that was. Battery didn't have enough juice to fire the coils of the bike unless it was running at about 2500 rpm which means pop-starting didn't even work. A guy with jumper cables got me running but it would shut off as soon as I disconnected. While he was still hooked up I adjusted my idle up to 3K which solved the stalling problem. I was able to limp home without needing another jump! I'm guessing our work schedules don't line up so any weekend works for me except for this one unless you feel like riding up to Candia NH again. You will need a shop manual unless you can find out what the nominal stator winding resistance should be and what its unloaded AC output voltage is. |
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#28
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.uhg, that sucks dude. Glad ya got er home. I was 1/2 joking bout helpin me out... I'm leavin for VA on Sunday so I aim to have it sorted by then... I'm sure we wouldn't be able to get together by then. S-all good, bro, I'll get er figured out Hey... that makes 2 posts in a row with the word "Yokel" in it... do we get a prize? |
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#29
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.Fried connectors would seem to indicate that your electrical system is carrying more current than it was designed for. Since connectors are a source of high resistance, as the current goes up the heat dissipated by them does too. This would also explain the voltage drop at the battery, since as your regulator is asked to produce more current than it is rated for, the output voltage will drop. Since you said that the connector to the regulator was damaged, I'd look for a short somewhere after your regulator (the 12V side, not the stator side) as a short before the regulator wouldn't cause a burned regulator connector. |
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#30
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.It was back in my high school days when my primary ride was my KZ-1000. Funny enough a couple of years later I was stranded in about the same area because of a corroded connection to the kill switch on my KZ-1100. Quote:
Quote:
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#31
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.Bill, how would I go about testing a battery? I bought two new ones today (one for the EX, one for the T) but kept the old one from my Aprilia since it may still be ok. I asked the guy at Autozone to test it but he said they only do car batteries Last edited by OreoGitorio : 04-03-08 at 05:16 PM. |
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#32
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.Well then tell 'em it's for a car....dur... ![]() FWIW; I was under the impression a battery load tester "for a car" could also be used on a motorcycle battery...I could be wrong however. |
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#33
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Re: It's a lot easier to solder with flux.Car batteries can source a shitload more current than a motorcycle battery without being damaged so a proper car load tester uses a load that draws more current. There are load testers in many sizes and the Autozone one might draw too much for smaller amp/hour batteries. You may have to find a bike shop that has a smaller tester. Last edited by ZX-12R : 04-03-08 at 08:11 PM. |
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