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'03 600RR
This problem started happening last year. The bike will shut itself off.
Honestly... it has really only happened either waiting on the hot pit before the warm-up lap of a race - or on the actual starting grid about 1 second before the green-flag drops.
There apparently is no real common denominator - other than the fact that it only happens when I'm sitting on the bike waiting for the flag to drop
At first - I thought the common denominator was doing 1 lap (warm-up before race) and then sitting on the grid. So I was going to try doing 1 lap in practice and then pitting out to the hot pit and just sit there to see if that triggered it. It didn't.
Next - I thought the common denominator would be sitting there idling with the bike in neutral - so before my next race - I kept the bike in 1st the whole time and gave it just a little throttle. This worked once - but not the next time. The next time I went out early for practice so I would have to sit in pit lane with the bike in 1st and test it out. It shut itself off 3x in a row.
Needless to say, this is VERY frustrating - b/c every time I go out for a race I don't know if I'm going to be able to get my bike started in time before the green flag drops. The last 2 races of this weekend it happened right on the starting grid - and really screwed with my start.
I've been through the whole bike - looking for any open wires / bad grounds. Didn't find anything.
In the month before this event I started the bike about 5-6 times at let it sit there and idle until it got up to temp (about 185)... and it never shut off.
Another fact - the bike will only restart if you turn the key off and then back on again.
Does anybody else have any idea what to check? Any help is MUCH appreciated.
I'll post on the 600rr forum as well.
-Tyler
~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
It's turning itself off on purpose because of a fault. Overheating, oil pressure, some sensor is sending the signal to turn off, that's why you have to reset to start it.
It's all water under the bridge, and we do enter the next round-robin. Am I wrong?
Well - I think I can exclude over-heating being an issue. At one point the bike was only at about 150 when it happened. Most of the time its been around 180.
Guess I just have to do some homework - find out what sensors are on the bike / where they are - and start checking them. Maybe a faulty kill-switch connection...?
~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
If it was a kill switch it would be randomly turning off while riding and not just at a stop. It would also not fix by resetting with the key. Cooling is an issue with the bikes. If your bike runs at 150-180 there is something not normal with it. Check your coolant level and the sensor.
It's all water under the bridge, and we do enter the next round-robin. Am I wrong?
I was watching you fiddling with that on the grid yesterday. When the 2 board came up I was thinking this ain't good, especially cause you were sitting there on pole.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
Yea man - sucks!
It's happened to me at least once every event this season.
Last weekend it did it early enough where I was still able to get good start (actually got the whole shot - 2x) - but it caused me to mis-shift both starts on Sunday.
Oh well - got some work to do before August.
Congrats on the new PB - 1:21:014 is awesome.
~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
That's true about the kill-switch - good point.
Not sure I understand about why running at 150-180 wouldn't be normal? Are you talking 150-180 is not hot enough? I just meant that is the temp when the bike shut off 1 or 2 out of the dozen random times.
See here: http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...r-heating.html
~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
what year is the bike?
Check the battery voltage.
If you have a burned cell it may trigger the ECU to shut down.
Trust me and rule out the easy stuff 1st.
Take it to a shop with a multi stage tester.
Bump.
Still no dice.
@ J2S - don't see a bright plug on the left side - maybe I'm blind.
Degsy - care to chime in?
Some guys on the 600rr.net forum thought it would be the BAS. The BAS is bypassed on this bike - but I did check the wiring from the BAS to the Engine stop relay (w/ohm meter) and all looks okay. I tried moving / bending / pinching the wires to see if the readings would drop at all...
Others mentioned maybe a problem with the connection on the PowerCommander - going to try and rule that out next.
Also went looking for where the kickstand switch would have been bypassed, but didn't have much time to dig in there.
Any other ideas? I still haven't been able to replicate the problem - have started the bike and let it run up to temp multiple times - tried leaving it in gear w/clutch in - leave in neutral - move bike side to side - anything I could think of...
~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
the connector is yellow and is on the left hand side of the bike attached to the main wire harness, you have to take off the seat and the rear plastic. You might not see the yellow at first since they are usually black taped to the wire harness. it also might be in a different place on an 2003... or it might not even have one??
I had an issue with this in my 05 600rr. not sure if they have them in the 03's but basically it's service plug, it's a bunch of the ground wires that are all bunched up into a connector.
one of mine was all corroded and it would cause the bike to shut off and not re-start. the blinkers would stay on solid and the starter would work but there was no fuel injection working so the bike wouldn't start.
Last edited by scubasteveRR; 08-12-11 at 09:21 AM. Reason: more info
BUMP!!
This sucks... still having this issue.
However - I did find somewhat of a 'common denominator'... the idle speed has to be below 4K.
By that I mean - my bike started cutting out again when I turned it to let it warm up. It would idle for a minute or two, then just cut out. After it cut out, I would turn the key off and back on again and start it up. At one point it cut out three times in a row - only idling for about 5 seconds.
So i tried turning the idle up - I turned the idle screw as much as it will go and it idles at about 3K RPM, but this did not fix the problem. HOWEVER, if I give it a little throttle (just enough to keep the RPM's at 4K or above) the bike will stay on just fine.
This led me to believe it was something wrong with the fuel system - maybe only at 4K was there enough pressure to keep the bike running? So I tried looking for crimped fuel hoses, pinched idler lines, etc - everything checked out okay. Then I thought maybe bad gas, or some clogging in an injector or something - so I bought some fuel treatment...
Still no dice - still have the same problem. It appears from the shop manual that there is no fuel filter that could be clogged - but only a fuel strainer type thing attached to the fuel pump.
At this point I'm as lost as ever. Is it electrical? Is it something to do with the fuel system? I don't know where to start looking (again)...
Anybody have any more ideas now that we know the bike will stay running if at least at 4K RPM?
PLEASE HELP!!
~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
Is it stalling or just flat out dying on you? I don't know if your bike is carbureated or has fi, but it sounds more like a fueling issue to me. The turning the key on and then off thing is weird though... . Are you sure that is actually necessary? I would try to leave the key on, give it some throttle when you re-start and see if it starts back up. My bike acts like this sometimes after the winter, and will stall on me if I don't let it warm up fully before heading onto the track. Happened to me last season when I was rushing to get to pre-grid and didn't warm up the bike. It kept stalling on me and when I turned the key off and on, the fuel pump would do it's priming thing then it would start, but if I didn't turn the key off and on, I'd have to give it some throttle to get it started again... my bike is fuel injected though so not sure if its the same issue... Once my bike is warmed up, it doesn't happen though.
LRRS am #121
"So this is what your race program has become... the back of a pickup truck huh?" -PK
If you can get this to happen pretty consistently it may be helpful to know what the voltages at the battery are doing when it is running, right when it shuts off and after it shut off. Using a DVM should be enough to see any inconsistancy. This could help to rule out the battery, voltage regulator/rectifier.
I forget...does the 03 have the tip over sensor? I think they were located underneath the headlight "pod". If so, what did you do with it when you went to race bodywork?
The 03 does have the BAS.... The previous owner by-passed it. All connections for this checked out....
I'll try to get some voltage readings this weekend...
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~that which doth not kill me can only make me stronger~
LRRS / CCS - #103
If he gave it to you with the bike, might be worth plugging it back in to see if the problem goes away?
Either way...good luck. I hate electrical problems...especially when you can't seem to duplicate the reliably.