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01 f150 extended cab car stereo

  1. #1

    01 f150 extended cab car stereo


    Questions:
    1.) how do you secure a double din deck, besides comp insurance + receipt? thinking - security torx through dash plastic or round off bolts?
    2.) how do you secure a subwoofer box? - was thinking, remove sub, drill hole in bottom, drywall screw directly through floor. Re-install sub
    3.) how do you secure amp? round out the bolts or use security torx?
    4.) loud booming bass shallow mount sub: single JL10w1 or two?
    5.) for 2x10" subs bridged 2om mono - which amp?
    6.) speakers - better clarity than stock without being "too bright" ?

    Want:
    -double din, bluetooth streaming, & backup camera. Was thinking this one.
    -loud, deep, booming bass. Yeah, I know...it's subjective. I like the way JL Audio sounds...I have a 10w1 right now, and it's not loud enough. Was thinking this pre-fab dual 10" box and an additional 10w1
    -subs to be out of the way - keep the rear seats - like this

    0 Not allowed!
    Last edited by breakdirt916; 12-18-16 at 11:04 AM.
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  2. #2

    Re: 01 f150 extended cab car stereo

    Here is a guide to the basics of '97-'03 F150 radios and installation. For a novice, I would suggest you purchase gear from Crutchfield, the equipment they sell comes with parts and instructions.

    97-03 F150 Audio Basics - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

    There are a number of prebuilt subwoofer boxes that will fit your truck. A custom built sub enclosure would fit even better, but the price difference can be massive. Once you have chosen a box, then you pick the drivers. Each woofer has an ideal enclosure that it will work best in, the details of which are described in the specifications sheet. You'll need to know a bit about the box before you can pick the right one.

    Yes you want to screw down the sub box, and usually the easiest way to secure the amp is to mount it on the box itself.

    You pick the amp last. Choosing the right one will depend on the woofers you pick, both the model and the quantity. You'll also need to consider the size of the amp itself, to make sure it fits where you need it to, the cost, and the amount of power it will draw from your electrical system.

    For example, for your 10W1 the ideal sealed box volume is 0.55 cu ft. The driver specs: Continuous Power Handling (RMS) 300 W, Efficiency (1 W / 1 m) 83.9 dB, (Xmax) 11mm. This gives us a theoretical 108.67 dB max SPL for 1 woofer, and a second woofer would add 3dB = 111.67. That's pretty loud.

    The two speakers are looking to get 600 watts RMS. Ideally, you would have 25% more power available for headroom, so 750W. You could get the 2 Ω version of the woofer, wire them parallel and use a 1 Ω stable amplifier like the Rockford R1200-1D. Or you could get the 4 Ω version of the woofer, wire parallel, and use a 2 Ω stable amplifier like the Rockford T1000-1bdCP

    The first amp has an average current draw of 55 A, and peak of 110 A. The second amp has an average current draw of 70 A, and peak of 140 A. The stock alternator in your truck puts out 94A, so you'll want to budget an upgrade for that as well.

    0 Not allowed!
    Last edited by audiojeff; 12-18-16 at 12:44 PM.

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