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Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

  1. #2751
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.


    Quote Originally Posted by aldend123 View Post
    The last time I was banging my head against the wall with a derailleur that wouldn't get in tune it was a bent hanger. It wasn't enough to spot with the naked eye, but replacing it fixed the problem.

    I just bought some new shoes and have been getting numb in the toes/foot. I have the same problem with my ski boots. I prefer they be super tight, but it seems too much pressure across the top center of my foot causes numbness. I'm not sure if it's circulation or nerve compression. If it's primarily when you're clipped in, I wonder if the cleat is too far forward, which causes you to naturally press the foot forward in to the tongue of the shoe.
    I'll try moving the cleat back. Thanks! I'll also try loosening the straps.

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  2. #2752
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    If you aren't paying for the product, you ARE the product!

    I have a little more comfort with the Garmin apps as that whole thing is a value-add they need to produce to move hardware.
    Overall, Stava didn't add enough for me without the social aspect. And I was done with that.
    I also felt the competitive aspect, even found myself getting annoyed with obvious cheaters.
    The whole MTB "B-line" cutter thing gets to me. I'm just not interested in feeding that ecosystem anymore. I'll get my competitive itch scratched elsewhere.
    I really do like the challenges strava has. I paid for the analysis pack and do also enjoy the data as far as relative effort is concerned.Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.-screenshot_20190712-144355-jpg

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    Lifer Chippertheripper's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    I’m done with devices for a bit.
    I’ve been strava-ing with just my phone again for some time.
    And when I strava, I strava alone. No followers, nor followees anywhere.
    One asshole literally ruined the whole thing for me.


    Edit: I feel guilty for advocating ways for other people to spend their money, but anybody who thinks they might like a gravel steed will absolutely love one.
    My own is my sole drop bar bike currently, with a set of dedicated road wheels for pavement only excursions. It is not lightweight, but it is awesome.

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    Last edited by Chippertheripper; 07-12-19 at 02:14 PM.
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  4. #2754
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Excuse my ignorance, please: What are the differences between a gravel bike and a pure road bike? If one were to ride road on gravel tires is there a large penalty? 1mph average?

    It’s weird to hear about issues with the competition inherent in strava. I’m honestly surprised that’s people are having issues with it. At the end of the day, especially with the battery bikes out there, it does really mean anything, but I could be missing something. I love the competitive aspect of it, but I like any competition, and I suck at bikes so not being on top is OK.

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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    I ended up going with an aluminum Topstone 105 recently. It's pretty sweet. I KOM'd the gravel road on my commute with a rack and briefcase on the bike. For commuting use I might have been better served by an endurance road bike with rack mounts (if that exists), but I wanted the ability to start doing some of the local gravel grinds. This thing also eats rough roads and sidewalks for breakfast

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  6. #2756
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Dammit. Typed a response to your gravel question and deleted it somehow. Bigger tire clearance, slacker/comfier geo, beefy wheelsets. You will lose mph on road as much from the more upright position/aero as the the tires. Makes for a versatile, comfortable, hooliganish drop bar bike.

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  7. #2757
    Lifer Chippertheripper's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by maxim_X View Post
    Excuse my ignorance, please: What are the differences between a gravel bike and a pure road bike? If one were to ride road on gravel tires is there a large penalty? 1mph average?

    It’s weird to hear about issues with the competition inherent in strava. I’m honestly surprised that’s people are having issues with it. At the end of the day, especially with the battery bikes out there, it does really mean anything, but I could be missing something. I love the competitive aspect of it, but I like any competition, and I suck at bikes so not being on top is OK.
    I’m some cases, the geometry of the gravel bike might be a bit more laid back than a “proper” road bike, more akin to an endurance frame, and it’s geometry, vs race.
    Depending on the setup, the speed penalty, if you will, is more like 2-3mph on pure pavement. You can choose smoother tires and/or bump up psi to compensate, but at the end of the day, more rotating mass takes more energy to move.
    It’s not as simple as that though, because that extra tire volume is more comfortable and going wherever you want is loads more fun.
    You don’t need a really aggressive cx/gravel type tread to play in the woods, but it’s definitely not as quick as a full on mtb out there.
    If one were to look for a gravel bike, I’d definitely encourage anybody to find one that fits 700/45 both front and back. You can always put skinnier tires on to suit your needs, but you can’t go wider if you don’t have the clearance.
    I personally have no experience with the road plus stuff, 650b/47ish, but that fan base appears to be growing also.

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  8. #2758
    Lifer isaac_'s Avatar
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    Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Do any of you build your own workouts to use on a trainer or road (to download to a bike computer)? What are you using? I've realized I thrive with some structure to my rides however brief they are.

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    Last edited by isaac_; 07-13-19 at 07:09 PM.
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by isaac_ View Post
    Do any of you build your own workouts to use on a trainer or road (to download to a bike computer)? What are you using? I've realized I thrive with some structure to my rides however brief they are.
    I don’t, but the best out there is trainer road.

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  10. #2760
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by maxim_X View Post
    I did some pedaling recently, and I remember why I liked it. After heading to the bike shop for new tires I got thinking about a new road steed. What I want to know is, I am missing anything by being in old iron instead of a new bike? The current horse is a 2000’s ish trek 1000. It’s functional, fairly comfortable, and seems to work, is there a much better cycling experience waiting for me out there on something 20 years newer?
    I was in the same spot as you last year, but my bike was even older. When I started riding again after a long layoff I was absolutely dying on big hills. My old road bike has 53/42 chainrings and a 12-24 or 12-26 cassette. I used to be strong enough to climb most hills in my area with that gearing, but not anymore. I was planning my ride routes around the hills so I wouldn't have to struggle over them.

    I swapped a 39t chainring for the 42t but I still wasn't happy, so I started sniffing around local shops and doing test rides and ended up finding a great deal on a new bike that fit me well with a Shimano 105 "compact" drivetrain. With 50/34 chainrings and an 11-32 cassette I can now grind up any climbs that I find and still pedal up to 40mph or so on the downhills. I love it.

    The new bike has hydraulic disc brakes too. They work great but I don't think they're really necessary for a recreational rider who doesn't live in the mountains. A decent set of rim brakes would have been fine with me but the manufacturer just happened to be clearing out their disc brake 105 bikes when I was bike shopping.

    IMO If you're happy with your old bike and it does everything that you need it to then there's no real reason to replace it, assuming that it doesn't need a new drivetrain or wheelset. If you think you'd like different gearing or better brakes you might appreciate a new bike. If you do buy one you'll probably be a lot more motivated to ride more often.

    I stuck my old bike on a trainer in the basement. I don't think there's a big market for old road bikes. I couldn't give a way my wife's old road bike.

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  11. #2761
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Was researching 1x11 Shimano roadie setups...

    Contemplating going 1x11 with a 105 R7000 group. 11-34 cassette, medium cage, a 46T chain ring, and just swapping the right dual control lever and leaving the left as is.

    Chainring:
    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...nt=27923279173

    Current Ratios w/ 2x10 12-30T & 50/34T CR
    Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.-2x10-current-jpg
    Ratios w/ 1x11 11-34T & 46T CR
    Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.-1x11-46t-cr-jpg

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    Last edited by csmutty; 07-15-19 at 02:40 PM.
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    Lifer Chippertheripper's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    The new Shimano gravel groupset has a left side brake only lever that’s purpose built.
    What bike is this for?

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  13. #2763
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chippertheripper View Post
    The new Shimano gravel groupset has a left side brake only lever that’s purpose built.
    What bike is this for?
    Was thinking of doing it on the roadie. I'm finding that I'm using the small chain ring very infrequently and a 1x11 setup like this would give me almost all the range with less complexity. And drawbacks that you can think of? And that's good to know about the gravel setup!

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    Last edited by csmutty; 07-15-19 at 08:09 PM.
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    Lifer Chippertheripper's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    I live where it’s flat, but I run a 11spd with a 42 and 11/28 on my road wheels.
    It’s Ok. Just ok.
    My controls are sram force mechanical.
    I’m a big fan of them, because in the cold, the carbon blades of the brake lever don’t transfer the cold like the aluminum ones do, even through winter gloves. Otherwise the rival is just as good.

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  15. #2765
    Your Father csmutty's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chippertheripper View Post
    I live where it’s flat, but I run a 11spd with a 42 and 11/28 on my road wheels.
    It’s Ok. Just ok.
    My controls are sram force mechanical.
    I’m a big fan of them, because in the cold, the carbon blades of the brake lever don’t transfer the cold like the aluminum ones do, even through winter gloves. Otherwise the rival is just as good.
    Seems like your ratios are pretty well centered for road. Looks like your sacrifice a little for climbing which is ok since you live where it's flat. But it looks like you have to spin out on top a little too? Is that the part that is just ok about it?

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  16. #2766
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    Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    I was having too many issues with my garmin and gave it up. Unfortunately because of my commute and how busy my weekends are, I'm trainer bound. But I like to see my numbers if for no other reason then to have a small goal, so I bought a Wahoo Elemnt (with various sensors). It's taken me a bit to figure it out but I like the simplicity over Garmin.

    Speaking of numbers... I'm doing a bit of research on power meters. If I opt to get one, I'm leaning towards crank based over a pedal based one. So, I'm talking to the guys at Landry's and they're saying I've got three options for my Trek Domane ALR 3 (maybe the three they sell, I haven't looked that closely at their inventory):

    1. Stages left crank $600
    2. Stages double sided $999 (plus a groupset?); however, the caveat here is these are designed for an 11 speed and I've got a 9 speed. So, this route may require an upgrade in my group set? TBD on whether we can just swap out chainrings instead of having to buy a new groupset. Anyone here have any experience?
    3. Quark at $1200. This price I believe includes a new chainring. As far as I can tell though, there's limited gearing. I currently have a compact 50/34 chainring and I think the closest one Quark has is 52/36. I'm thinking this would be a little bit worse on hills and better on flats? Maybe it doesn't matter since I'm not getting out much.


    Any general thoughts on the above?

    My research tells me that going with a left crank would just double the one side to estimate total wattage. Correct? But this might not be good if say my right leg puts out significantly different power.

    If it's possible to swap out the chainrings and do double sided is there a reason I shouldnt do this over a Quark?

    Are there other PM's that might fit my bike? I'm trying to do the research but some guidance would help.

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    Last edited by isaac_; 07-16-19 at 10:45 PM.
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  17. #2767
    Lifer eboos's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by isaac_ View Post
    I was having too many issues with my garmin and gave it up. Unfortunately because of my commute and how busy my weekends are, I'm trainer bound. But I like to see my numbers if for no other reason then to have a small goal, so I bought a Wahoo Elemnt (with various sensors). It's taken me a bit to figure it out but I like the simplicity over Garmin.

    Speaking of numbers... I'm doing a bit of research on power meters. If I opt to get one, I'm leaning towards crank based over a pedal based one. So, I'm talking to the guys at Landry's and they're saying I've got three options for my Trek Domane ALR 3 (maybe the three they sell, I haven't looked that closely at their inventory):

    1. Stages left crank $600
    2. Stages double sided $999 (plus a groupset?); however, the caveat here is these are designed for an 11 speed and I've got a 9 speed. So, this route may require an upgrade in my group set? TBD on whether we can just swap out chainrings instead of having to buy a new groupset. Anyone here have any experience?
    3. Quark at $1200. This price I believe includes a new chainring. As far as I can tell though, there's limited gearing. I currently have a compact 50/34 chainring and I think the closest one Quark has is 52/36. I'm thinking this would be a little bit worse on hills and better on flats? Maybe it doesn't matter since I'm not getting out much.


    Any general thoughts on the above?

    My research tells me that going with a left crank would just double the one side to estimate total wattage. Correct? But this might not be good if say my right leg puts out significantly different power.

    If it's possible to swap out the chainrings and do double sided is there a reason I shouldn’t do this over a Quark?

    Are there other PM's that might fit my bike? I'm trying to do the research but some guidance would help.
    Although I would be a funny one to say this since I had recently upgraded a 2003 bike with the current Ultegra groupset, I wouldn't recommend any of the options you listed. I would be looking for a used power meter instead for reduced cost, or a pedal or hub based one for swapability. If changing full groupsets from 9 speed to 11 speed, you may also need a new rear hub since the 9/10 speed freehub is slightly narrower than the 11 speed freehub. This will start to get expensive fast and you may find your money better spent on a new bike. I have run a 11 speed crank on a 10 speed group, and a 10 speed crank on a 9 speed group, but I've never run a 11 speed crank on a 9 speed group so I cannot comment on its compatibility.

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  18. #2768
    Member Tom M's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by isaac_ View Post
    I was having too many issues with my garmin and gave it up. Unfortunately because of my commute and how busy my weekends are, I'm trainer bound. But I like to see my numbers if for no other reason then to have a small goal, so I bought a Wahoo Elemnt (with various sensors). It's taken me a bit to figure it out but I like the simplicity over Garmin.

    Speaking of numbers... I'm doing a bit of research on power meters. If I opt to get one, I'm leaning towards crank based over a pedal based one. So, I'm talking to the guys at Landry's and they're saying I've got three options for my Trek Domane ALR 3 (maybe the three they sell, I haven't looked that closely at their inventory):

    1. Stages left crank $600
    2. Stages double sided $999 (plus a groupset?); however, the caveat here is these are designed for an 11 speed and I've got a 9 speed. So, this route may require an upgrade in my group set? TBD on whether we can just swap out chainrings instead of having to buy a new groupset. Anyone here have any experience?
    3. Quark at $1200. This price I believe includes a new chainring. As far as I can tell though, there's limited gearing. I currently have a compact 50/34 chainring and I think the closest one Quark has is 52/36. I'm thinking this would be a little bit worse on hills and better on flats? Maybe it doesn't matter since I'm not getting out much.


    Any general thoughts on the above?

    My research tells me that going with a left crank would just double the one side to estimate total wattage. Correct? But this might not be good if say my right leg puts out significantly different power.

    If it's possible to swap out the chainrings and do double sided is there a reason I shouldn’t do this over a Quark?

    Are there other PM's that might fit my bike? I'm trying to do the research but some guidance would help.
    I know nothing about power meters but if you're primarily riding a trainer you might want to consider getting a smart trainer that will give you all of the data that you're looking for without upgrading your bike.

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  19. #2769
    Fast is contagious JettaJayGLS's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Just buy a Stages.

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  20. #2770
    Lifer isaac_'s Avatar
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    Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by JettaJayGLS View Post
    Just buy a Stages.
    Which one? The left side only?

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  21. #2771
    Fast is contagious JettaJayGLS's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by isaac_ View Post
    Which one? The left side only?
    Yep. Unless you have uneven legs or a prior accident/issue predisposing you to uneven leg strength, they're going to be the same. If you can find a used one, great.

    Even if they were to differ, you train with a powermeter by benchmarking off of your history. As long as readings are consistent, the numbers could be on a completely made-up spectrum and it wouldn't change your results.

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  22. #2772
    Lifer isaac_'s Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M View Post
    I know nothing about power meters but if you're primarily riding a trainer you might want to consider getting a smart trainer that will give you all of the data that you're looking for without upgrading your bike.
    I still have hopes of getting outside!

    Quote Originally Posted by JettaJayGLS View Post
    Yep. Unless you have uneven legs or a prior accident/issue predisposing you to uneven leg strength, they're going to be the same. If you can find a used one, great.

    Even if they were to differ, you train with a powermeter by benchmarking off of your history. As long as readings are consistent, the numbers could be on a completely made-up spectrum and it wouldn't change your results.
    Awesome. Thanks for that input.

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  23. #2773
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    I am getting interested in Cyclocross.

    I have a 2003 Ironhorse Victory that i'd like to set up to use as my rookie year cross bike. I know that in theory I really only have to get some tires and give it a go, but thats not how I operate.

    The current bike has a 2x9. I want to move to a 1x, primarily because I do not trust the front derailleur. I have tried to tweak it to death but it still throws the chain way too frequently, I've even snapped a chain one time on a climb because it threw the chain and got tangled. My gut says the 9 speed cassette is too small to keep as a 1x. I'd like to move to a 10 or 11. Some slight googling says I SHOULD be able to fit a 10 on this freewheel without modifying or replacing it. Do cassettes generally list a minimum freewheel width in the specs? I've been shopping around and have not seen that listed. I'd love to not be guessing when I order something.

    What would be the best way to just get a single lever/shifter combo and derailleur to accommodate the cassette upgrade if I can find one? i'm seeing complete sets on most sites, with cranks and stuff i don't need as i'm planning to re purpose a crank set i have laying around.

    tires: what would be a minimum width i should be targeting? Current road tire size is 700x23c. The rear has a bunch of room, but the front is not as roomy. I may just buy 2 different sizes and return what doesn't fit.

    Tell me how i'm thinking incorrectly.

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  24. #2774
    Member Tom M's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by iTGbuDeeV View Post
    I am getting interested in Cyclocross.
    <snip>
    Tell me how i'm thinking incorrectly.
    Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.-random-shite-2019-05-23-a

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  25. #2775
    Lifer Chippertheripper's Avatar
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    Re: Official non-motorized motorcycle thread.

    UCI cross tire width is 33mm. There’s no way that’s fitting on your road bike.
    For what you’re likely to spend doing a mild conversion, you can most certainly grab a used cantilever style (prob aluminum, maybe steel) actual cross bike and give it hell.

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