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Plumbing advice - need tor un new pipes

  1. #1
    Pimptastic ftrain's Avatar
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    Plumbing advice - need tor un new pipes


    The pressure of hot water and cold water is not equal in the house. The main pipe comming through the wall from the outside goes into a filter and then runs through the house to every cold hook up. At the end of this run it goes into the hot water heater and then feeds all the hot water hook ups in the house.

    To solve this problem I want to split the main water pipe right after the filter and feed the hot water heater directly instead of the hot water heater being feed at the end of the cold water run.

    So in the basement half is finished with a sheet rock ceiling and the rest is not finished. All the pipes go around this finished section so the pipes could be mounted below the floor joyce. Instead of running the pipes around the finished section and using 40' of pipe I rather cut a strip out of the sheet rock and drill holes in the floor joyce and repair the ceiling and only use 15' of pipe. Less pipe, less bends, less resistance.

    How close to the bottom of the floor joyce can I drill these holes? I assume the pipe is flexable enough so I can bend the pipe a little so I could feed it into the holes I just drilled in the floor joyce.

    Besides pipes, fitting, torch, solder what else should I pick up. I assume flux, sand paper, and some type of heat shield so I do not burn the house down when I solder the pipes. I am also going to have to purchase a right angle drill. Anyone recomend and brand and modle number for a good quality drill that will last me a lifetime?

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    ~ FTrain

  2. #2
    Super Moderator legalspeed's Avatar
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    Plumbing advice - need tor un new pipes

    Right angle drill= Milwaukee 1/2 inch. Can't remember any model #'s. This is info from the late 80's.

    Two inches from bottom of joist to edge of hole if you have to, else center the hole in your joist. Must be 2" from other holes.

    If you can't get the pipe to completely shut off (drippy drippy while trying to solder), try a small piece of white bread stuffed into the pipe to temporarily absorb the h2o so you can weld that puppy. The bread will disolve and blow through the lines.

    Remember there is such a thing as flexible tubing.

    I don't know why the preassure is different, if it's bacause of opening a faucet in line, your proposed solution would do the same.

    Don't foget a mixer valve.

    You should be looking at a super-store.

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    LRRS\CCS\WERA #486

  3. #3
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Plumbing advice - need tor un new pipes

    What kind of hot water heater you have... if it's tankless that is why you have a pressure drop.... and you will NEVER get the pressure equal

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    RandyO
    IBA#9560
    A man with a gun is a citizen
    A man without a gun is a subject

  4. #4
    Lifer Suf Daddy's Avatar
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    TWO

    DING DING DING DING DING.

    Now we need your input to further solve your problem........

    SO far the NESR gang is right on.
    -Suf Daddy

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    Suf Daddy.



  5. #5
    Lifer Suf Daddy's Avatar
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    Re: Plumbing advice - Quick Q's:

    Pressures the same on both ends of the loop except for the water heater, which Randy says could be higher if its boiler / furnace fed (tankless hot water)

    Less resistance not so with 15' vs 40' feet of pipe.
    You'll have less leaks in a straight run with less solder joints.

    You'll need to leave the bottom 2" inches in engineered lumber
    You can notch JOIST(S) by either the top/middle or bottom (NOT both) from memory - at least for your 1/2 pipe.

    4" DWV (poop pipe) needs to be in the center of the joist !/3 up to 2/3's up no notch in top or bottom.

    Right angle drill. any should work for you. If ya wanna drill through anything for ever spend $300 and get a Milwaukee Hole Hawg: http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200055974.htm

    AFAIK..all from memory. your house may colapse if you follow my advice. I'm too lazy to open the Code book 3' from me..............
    -Suf Daddy

    Originally posted by ftrain
    The pressure of hot water and cold water is not equal in the house. The main pipe comming through the wall from the outside goes into a filter and then runs through the house to every cold hook up. At the end of this run it goes into the hot water heater and then feeds all the hot water hook ups in the house.

    To solve this problem I want to split the main water pipe right after the filter and feed the hot water heater directly instead of the hot water heater being feed at the end of the cold water run.

    So in the basement half is finished with a sheet rock ceiling and the rest is not finished. All the pipes go around this finished section so the pipes could be mounted below the floor joyce. Instead of running the pipes around the finished section and using 40' of pipe I rather cut a strip out of the sheet rock and drill holes in the floor joyce and repair the ceiling and only use 15' of pipe. Less pipe, less bends, less resistance.

    How close to the bottom of the floor joyce can I drill these holes? I assume the pipe is flexable enough so I can bend the pipe a little so I could feed it into the holes I just drilled in the floor joyce.

    Besides pipes, fitting, torch, solder what else should I pick up. I assume flux, sand paper, and some type of heat shield so I do not burn the house down when I solder the pipes. I am also going to have to purchase a right angle drill. Anyone recomend and brand and modle number for a good quality drill that will last me a lifetime?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Suf Daddy.



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