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Roof advice, seacoast NH region

  1. #1
    Burns retinas nhbubba's Avatar
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    Roof advice, seacoast NH region


    Hello all,

    Looking for off-topic recommendations. It has become time to put a new roof on my home. Looking for recommendations and advice for this. 2 courses on the main house. So we're looking at a full strip and re-do.

    Considering a metal roof. What should I be looking for from a sales guy/contractor?

    Although I suspect the math may not work out for us for this. This is not the forever home and we will not likely be in it for >10 years. So I'm guessing asphalt shingles will win out bang/$ wise.

    A few years ago I had the attic insulation beefed up with some additional blown in. Attic venting has always been rather poor. We have gable, soffit AND ridge venting. It's been suggested that the gable vents are extraneous. Soffit vents are these little 2" aluminum inserts in pine 1x lumber. Would now be a good time to address that? What should I be looking to do? Cut out the 1x wood and replace with aluminum screen?

    Open to recommendations for contractors to contact for quotes.

    Thank you..

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    Lifer Imbeek's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    To my knowledge, asphalt shingles haven’t been widely available in this part of the country for quite some time. Fiberglass based, now.

    Without seeing the house, if venting has been a problem, no way in hell I’d get rid of gable vents! I’d make sure they are big enough, and make sure they aren’t blocked off. They work the best, and ridge vent and soffit venting are the next best thing where gable vents won’t work...like where ceilings are vaulted, for example. In areas where soffit venting and ridge vent is necessary, they typically won’t work properly unless baffles (commonly called proper vent) are installed to allow air to flow between the roof insulation and the bottom of the roof sheathing.

    In a “standard” attic over flat ceilings below, gable vents are best with soffit vents. Since there should be no insulation touching the bottom of the roof sheathing anywhere except where the rafters intersect the wall top plates, proper vent needs to be installed in that area (only) or else the soffit vents won’t work.

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    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    I just went thru this last summer, metal vs shingle. ended up going with shingle, stripped the roof, new waterseal & shingles

    I have soffit and ridge vent, no gable end vents, it was my venting that saved my roof from leaking, My shingles were 36 year on 25 year warranty shingles. However my soffit vents are not the little round ones, its one long strip the whole length of the house

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  4. #4
    Burns retinas nhbubba's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by Imbeek View Post
    To my knowledge, asphalt shingles haven’t been widely available in this part of the country for quite some time. Fiberglass based, now.
    You're busting my nuts over terminology now? Very well.. Almost everyone I know calls them "asphalt singles".

    House is a one and "three quarters" story dormered cape with a 24x24 garage attached. Garage is not dormered and the footprint is not as wide as the main house. Thus there is a step down in the roofline. One gable opening is at the end of the garage roof.

    Without knowing, my guess is they had problems and installed the soffit and ridge vents when they re-did the roof umpteen years ago. I still have problems with ice dams.

    My understanding was the opposite of what you suggest; that soffit + ridge venting was superior. I thought the advice I got once upon a time was to seal off the gable vents and enlarge the soffit vents, encourage venting up the underside of the roof.

    Quote Originally Posted by Imbeek View Post
    In a “standard” attic over flat ceilings below, gable vents are best with soffit vents. Since there should be no insulation touching the bottom of the roof sheathing anywhere except where the rafters intersect the wall top plates, proper vent needs to be installed in that area (only) or else the soffit vents won’t work.
    Alas this is me. I have knee walls and sloped ceilings in at least half of the entire 2nd floor. I'm confident there isn't the correct baffles in the rafter bays.

    Maybe I can address that now as well while tearing the roof apart?

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Your looking at $350-400 per square (100 square feet=1 sq) for asphalt. Stripping is usually extra.

    We charge about the same price to put corrugated metal roofing on (look up fabral grand rib). $700/sq for standing seam (look up Englert metal roofing).

    People like the look of the standing seam better, it's a better product, lasts longer and had no exposed fasteners. The corrugated will make your house look like a barn, but will last longer than shingles and is a similarly priced option over singles.

    You can do a rough calculation by just multiplying the length of your roof by the height, times it by 2 and then divide it by 100. That will be your total squares.

    Figure $150/sq per layer stripped plus around $400 for a dumpster.

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Not trying to bust balls on the terminology...I guess you can lump them all together if you want, but at the time when companies were transitioning from asphalt BASED to fiberglass based shingles (80s and 90s, so still relevant with warranties), it was a fairly important distinction and selling point...especially since GAF’s first attempts at new fiberglass base materials failed massively, with disastrous results and roof failures WAY before warrantees were expired. We did quite a few roofs as a result of that issue, so at the time, and as a result of all the publicity about the GAF failures, people DEMANDED asphalt based shingles, and if they said asphalt and we installed Fiberglas based shingles with asphalt used as a binder to attach the aggregate, it wouldn’t have been a nit picky distinction at all.

    Anyway, they worked out the issues and I think most are fiberglass based with asphalt binder now but I’m not current on it. I simply refer to them as architectural 35 year roofing shingles, or 20 year three tab shingles, etc.

    Your roofer might be able to add venting baffles over the clipped areas, as it is impossible to vent those types of ceilings with solely gable vents. Expect to deal with some nail pops and cracks in the drywall on the clipped ceilings, if they need to remove and replace sheathing to get the venting in.

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    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Go with "Architectural" shingles rather than "3 tab"

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by sdog30 View Post
    Your looking at $350-400 per square (100 square feet=1 sq) for asphalt. Stripping is usually extra.

    We charge about the same price to put corrugated metal roofing on (look up fabral grand rib). $700/sq for standing seam (look up Englert metal roofing).

    People like the look of the standing seam better, it's a better product, lasts longer and had no exposed fasteners. The corrugated will make your house look like a barn, but will last longer than shingles and is a similarly priced option over singles.

    You can do a rough calculation by just multiplying the length of your roof by the height, times it by 2 and then divide it by 100. That will be your total squares.

    Figure $150/sq per layer stripped plus around $400 for a dumpster.



    last summer, I had my small house's roof reshingled, 28'x45' roof (20'x44' foundation) = 13 squares

    roofers began putting tarps on ground, stripped roof, put down new water barrier & drip edge, shingled roof, with new ridge vent, fixed a couple loose bricks in chimney, buttoned up the flashing, replaced 90ft of rotted fascia board, wrapped it with vinyl.

    Cleaned everything up and hailed it away in their dump trailer

    I knew I was getting a better than average price
    Total $3500 = $269.23/sq

    I was considering metal (Fabral Grand Rib like I have on my barn) but cost would have been about $5k, it was cheaper for my barn cause I didn't have to build a roof under it, just pearlings on rafters

    The other thing that turned me off on a metal roof is avalanches and where my oil furnace power vent is. My barn roof is much bigger, but in some years, I have had snow piles last till June

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyO View Post


    last summer, I had my small house's roof reshingled, 28'x45' roof (20'x44' foundation) = 13 squares

    roofers began putting tarps on ground, stripped roof, put down new water barrier & drip edge, shingled roof, with new ridge vent, fixed a couple loose bricks in chimney, buttoned up the flashing, replaced 90ft of rotted fascia board, wrapped it with vinyl.

    Cleaned everything up and hailed it away in their dump trailer

    I knew I was getting a better than average price
    Total $3500 = $269.23/sq

    I was considering metal (Fabral Grand Rib like I have on my barn) but cost would have been about $5k, it was cheaper for my barn cause I didn't have to build a roof under it, just pearlings on rafters

    The other thing that turned me off on a metal roof is avalanches and where my oil furnace power vent is. My barn roof is much bigger, but in some years, I have had snow piles last till June
    Must have been a Brazilian crew.

    It's funny, we get a winter of ice damns and everyone wants a metal roof. The snow slides off like crazy, so then we have to put snow retention in certain spots like over entrances and generators to keep the snow from crashing down.

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    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by sdog30 View Post
    Must have been a Brazilian crew.

    It's funny, we get a winter of ice damns and everyone wants a metal roof. The snow slides off like crazy, so then we have to put snow retention in certain spots like over entrances and generators to keep the snow from crashing down.
    no, local building contractor that hires my company to do surveying/environmental/local permitting. we've helped him out of binds, like I said, I knew I was getting a good price and workmanship. He didn't have to give me references cause I've seen him build houses

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    Lifer jasnmar's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyO View Post
    no, local building contractor that hires my company to do surveying/environmental/local permitting. we've helped him out of binds, like I said, I knew I was getting a good price and workmanship. He didn't have to give me references cause I've seen him build houses
    So you got a "good buddy deal", which is fine.

    That said, Sam's (it is Sam, right?) prices don't seem completely unreasonable for a "random homeowner" compared to yours. Seacoast is going to be a bit pricier, just because it's seacoast(ish) as well.

    As other's have said, if you don't plan to stay I'd do architectural shingles. If you were staying forever, standing seam metal.

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    Last edited by jasnmar; 02-23-18 at 06:42 PM.

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Ugh....doing one now....original quote $15,000 for 800sq ft ish house

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    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by jasnmar View Post
    Seacoast is going to be a bit pricier, just because it's seacoast(ish) as well.
    .
    fer sure, Seacoast jobs are long distance end of our range, we are on high end of septic design prices in my region, we double our price for Rye, and were on the low end of the spectrum down there

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    Lifer TIMMYDUCK's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Did mine last summer Owens Corning Summer Harvest 30 year shingle.

    2 layers stripped and disposed of flashings , wood ,all extra's included.

    Paid 13,500 all-in.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Roof advice, seacoast NH region-img_1593-jpg  

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Singles seem to keep failing more in the last several years. 30 years is usually under ideal circumstances. Too much sun, mold from trees, not enough venting and you see that time go down.

    In your case Colin, your probably fine with just going with a 30 year single. Especially if this is not your forever home. I would just keep the venting you have, should be more than sufficient.

    Pretty sure by the coast is considered a high wind zone, so make sure they hurricane nail (6 nails per single, same nail pattern, but with 2 sets of 2 nails in the middle)

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    Burns retinas nhbubba's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    When I say seacoast area, I mean within 15 miles of the coast. Randy, you've been to my house. You I'm probably close enough to lure a contractor from Rochester down 125 for a project, no?

    I am not ocean front. Not ocean view. And sure as hell not in Rye.

    Quote Originally Posted by sdog30 View Post
    I would just keep the venting you have, should be more than sufficient.
    Even if I constantly have ice dams?

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  17. #17
    Burns retinas nhbubba's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    I had mold/moss from trees. But cut down the trees. Shouldn't have that problem anymore. Honestly think the roof would have failed had I not cut them a few years ago. Even money says one of the trees would have caused the roof to fail by landing on it.

    I have 3 tab on now. Pretty sure the whole neighborhood is the same.

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    Lifer Imbeek's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Three tab are horrible. Dumb design. Definitely go at least architectural shingles; better everything (looks, wind resistance, leak resistance, warrantee, hiding of any defects in structure or installation) and the labor cost to install is the same. The material cost difference is well worth it.

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    WMC original sdog30's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    We used to charge the same to do three tab as architectural as architectural is way easier to install. Definitely go with architectural.

    3 tab warranty is usually 15 years. When you reroof over asphalt shingles, it lessens the warranty, too. They end up cooking from underneath from the old shingles as well as from the sun.

    Check online to see what the wind zone is for your town. Even being 15 miles from the coast can be considered a high wind zone.

    Adding more venting won't help with ice damns. That happens from heat loss. Have you had issues since you added insulation to the attic? You could put a snow belt in on the lead edge. Then the snow will slide off.

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    Burns retinas nhbubba's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by sdog30 View Post
    Check online to see what the wind zone is for your town. Even being 15 miles from the coast can be considered a high wind zone.
    Google says "Zone 2 (110 mph)".. same as most of inland Mass.

    Drove around my neighborhood and it turns out most of my neighbors have installed architectural shingles overnight without me noticing. Guess I'd better keep up with the jones. 3-tabs are out.

    Quote Originally Posted by sdog30 View Post
    Adding more venting won't help with ice damns. That happens from heat loss. Have you had issues since you added insulation to the attic? You could put a snow belt in on the lead edge. Then the snow will slide off.
    Yes, since adding insulation. Although I'm paranoid with the old roof and rake it often now.

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  21. #21
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by sdog30 View Post

    Adding more venting won't help with ice damns. That happens from heat loss. Have you had issues since you added insulation to the attic? You could put a snow belt in on the lead edge. Then the snow will slide off.
    I don't agree with that at all. I have a 200 year old house, new roof prior to purchasing it 2 years ago and the first winter, I had major ice dams. I won't get into the proper installation of drip edge and ice+water shield (which was done wrong on my house), but last spring, I replaced the soffits and added soffit vents. The old house only had gable vents at the highest point prior to this. There is ZERO insulation in any ceiling/roof in my house currently. The old horse hair plaster between the roof rafters was spaced 1" away from the roof boards leaving a channel from the soffit to the attic for air to flow. I have had no ice dams at all this season. With constant flow of air, the warm air never builds up causing the snow to melt, run down, and freeze at the end of the roof.

    I'm also not a huge fan of ridge vents, they simply don't flow enough air to keep things circulating. Cover them with snow, and they become useless.

    A metal roof, pretty much solves all your venting/ice dam issues if installed correctly. It's spaced off the roof and has air flow from the bottom to the top.

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Agree that venting affects ice dams

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    Quote Originally Posted by R7 View Post

    A metal roof, pretty much solves all your venting/ice dam issues if installed correctly. It's spaced off the roof and has air flow from the bottom to the top.
    I didn't know that. I'm in a building with serious ice damming issues due to attic living spaces and poor insulation. There are also multiple pitches and gables complicating things. We are trying to figure out how to replace the roof and solve the ice damming in the most cost efficient way. Am I hearing that a metal roof might actually be a good option? It's a very big barn made into condos. The metal look would work. (Not standing seam). Avalanches could be an issue though. It's a huge surface area. We would probably need new gutter system to protect those from snow too.

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  24. #24
    Lifer wiggeywackyo's Avatar
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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    We went standing seam this year and I like it so far. My only real piece of advice is to strip it yourself or have it stripped by a non-specialist. It will save you a crap ton of money.

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    Re: Roof advice, seacoast NH region

    The ideal way to install a metal roof is on plywood decking, not strapping. So there is no airflow between the metal roofing and the decking, unless you have a "cold roof", but that's not a common set up. When it is on strapping, the strapping is installed horizontally, which does not promote air flow. Even the corregated roofing should have foam closer strips on the lead edge that close up the space between the panel and the drip edge.

    Metal sheds snow because the sun hits it and its metal, so it slides off easily. Hence a snow belt on the lead edge of a shingled roof.

    If Colin has an attic space that is open and insulated properly between the living space and dead space of the attic and has gable vents along with ridge vents and soffit venting, that should be sufficient venting. Spend money on putting in a snow belt (pretty cheap, especially if you are redoing the whole roof) and don't worry about the venting.

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