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Snowblower

  1. #76
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by Garandman View Post
    In the "RTFM" department, after starting the Honda, you are supposed to put it in neutral, then pull the clutch lever for 30 seconds to warm up the hydrostatic drive.
    fwiw, I recommend when your completely done with a storm, instead of turning it off with key switch, shut fuel valve off and let it run out of gas, then open the float bowl drain, and do not leave any fuel in the carb to evaporate and gum things up

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  2. #77
    Lifer Garandman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    I use Mogas.

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  3. #78
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyO View Post
    fwiw, I recommend when your completely done with a storm, instead of turning it off with key switch, shut fuel valve off and let it run out of gas, then open the float bowl drain, and do not leave any fuel in the carb to evaporate and gum things up
    I let my Honda 928 tracks model run out of gas after shutting off the fuel each year. Never drained the bowl, never had an issue always starts quite easily each snow season.

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  4. #79
    KNEE DRAGGING BAGGER sedanman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    I got some non ethanol fuel this year. Will use it with stabilizer all year and store it full.

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  5. #80
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by jwm2k3 View Post
    I let my Honda 928 tracks model run out of gas after shutting off the fuel each year. Never drained the bowl, never had an issue always starts quite easily each snow season.
    never has a problem with mine starting, first year I had it, halfway thru the season it started running like shit, surgin, etc at full throttle, even though it started and idled fine, had the carb cleaned, after that is when I started shutting it down with the fuel valve.

    it takes me about 1 tanks of fuel per storm minimum to do my drive, parking area and walkways, but have used 2 full tanks + a couple of times. I usually top it off after each storm, but not always.

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  6. #81
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by sedanman View Post
    I got some non ethanol fuel this year. Will use it with stabilizer all year and store it full.
    I have a 7 gallon container I fill with premium and stabilize it and keep it on hand, mostly for small engine uses, snowblower, generator, chainsaw mix, when the container gets down to about 4 gallons left, I dump the remainder into one of my vehicles and refill it, I don't wanna get caught without fuel if the power goes out, last time I had to use my generator, the local gas stations didn't have power either

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  7. #82
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    Re: Snowblower

    I'll jump in on this. I have 2 Toro Snowblowers and they are awesome.

    I have an older 2 stroke single stage and a new 4 stroke two stage (926)

    the quick stick chute control is awesome. Never had a problem with it.


    Cub cadet makes a 45 inch wide model. they also introduced a 3 stage blower..
    2X

    3X Three-Stage Snow Thrower: Heavy-Duty Commercial Snow Blowers

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  8. #83
    Lifer Falko's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    I find the 3X thing to be gimmicky. That intermittent stage does nothing but feeds stage "3". You are still limited by the speed of that stage.

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  9. #84
    Rider. Just a rider... DucDave's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyO View Post
    never has a problem with mine starting, first year I had it, halfway thru the season it started running like shit, surgin, etc at full throttle, even though it started and idled fine, had the carb cleaned, after that is when I started shutting it down with the fuel valve.

    it takes me about 1 tanks of fuel per storm minimum to do my drive, parking area and walkways, but have used 2 full tanks + a couple of times. I usually top it off after each storm, but not always.
    Wow...do you do the whole town? Seriously dude, you must cover a lot of territory...!

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  10. #85
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by DucDave View Post
    Wow...do you do the whole town? Seriously dude, you must cover a lot of territory...!
    if my drive was paved, it would probably take half as much time and half as much fuel,

    I have about 100 feet of curb cut total between 2 driveway entrances to the street and the pull off for my mail box where I have to remove the snowbank the town leaves, about 175 feet of driveway total, about 4000 sq ft of parking and another 250 feet of pathways, total, nearly 10,000 square feet, it has taken me over 6 hours in the biggest storms, and I still have to shovel another 400 square feet of steps & deck

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  11. #86
    KNEE DRAGGING BAGGER sedanman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyO View Post
    I have a 7 gallon container I fill with premium and stabilize it and keep it on hand, mostly for small engine uses, snowblower, generator, chainsaw mix, when the container gets down to about 4 gallons left, I dump the remainder into one of my vehicles and refill it, I don't wanna get caught without fuel if the power goes out, last time I had to use my generator, the local gas stations didn't have power either
    Ethanol not octane is the problem. Gasoline blended with ethanol has less btu's per gallon than pure gasoline. Small engines with EPA mandated tamper proof carburetors don't like ethanol. The EPA carb is lean and it gets worse with ethanol. Premium gas mixed with ethanol is just more expensive garbage that is a little more resistant to detonation. Most small engines have pretty low compression so "pinging" isn't much of a problem anyway. Try some straight non ethanol fuel in your small engines if you can find it. You will be surprised how much better your equipment runs.

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  12. #87
    KNEE DRAGGING BAGGER sedanman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    My generator has a Briggs on it with a fixed jet carb. If I can run it on straight gas, it purrs just fine. If I have to use ethanol blended fuel it will surge (lean mixture). I have a few different main jets in different sizes to swap out for available fuel. The jet is in the nut that holds the float bowl on so it takes only a minute to swap out.

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    Last edited by sedanman; 12-17-14 at 08:47 AM.
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  13. #88
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by sedanman View Post
    Ethanol not octane is the problem.
    no shit, I put premium in my container cause I use it in equipment and emergency gas for vehicles with varying octane requirements, some of which require premium

    in other words, if yer in my driveway with a bike that requires premium and run out of gas, your not gong to ride away with a knocking engine

    non ethanol fuel is a 60 mile round trip for me

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  14. #89
    KNEE DRAGGING BAGGER sedanman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    I would have to drive even further for non ethanol fuel. If a friend of mine didn't drive past the station that has it on a regular basis, I wouldn't be able to use it either. The only source of non ethanol fuel is also premium. So I end up paying 4 bucks a gallon! I like the your logic of premium for emergencies. I even know a landscaper that mixes all of his fuel with 2 cycle oil so his employees never put straight gas in a 2 cycle engine.

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  15. #90
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by sedanman View Post
    I even know a landscaper that mixes all of his fuel with 2 cycle oil so his employees never put straight gas in a 2 cycle engine.
    I only have 2 items that are 2 stroke, my chainsaw that takes 50:1 and my rotary hammer that takes 25:1, I have 2, 1 gallon containers clearly marked what the mixture is

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  16. #91
    Senior Member B440's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by sedanman View Post
    I even know a landscaper that mixes all of his fuel with 2 cycle oil so his employees never put straight gas in a 2 cycle engine.
    That is a very smart man.

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  17. #92
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by sedanman View Post
    I would have to drive even further for non ethanol fuel. If a friend of mine didn't drive past the station that has it on a regular basis, I wouldn't be able to use it either. The only source of non ethanol fuel is also premium. So I end up paying 4 bucks a gallon! I like the your logic of premium for emergencies. I even know a landscaper that mixes all of his fuel with 2 cycle oil so his employees never put straight gas in a 2 cycle engine.
    I've been buying 10-15 gallons of Mogas at Hampton NH Airfield. It was $4.95 per gallon the last couple of times. I use it in the lawnmower, snow thrower, chain saws etc so I only go through about 10 gallons a year there, but I also use it in the last tank or two of the season on our two carbureted bikes.

    The snow throwers in particular seem to run a lot stronger on Mogas.

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  18. #93
    Lifer BostonSVkid's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    So I ended up with a 36" Ariens Pro Series (used). Thing is the balls and I got a Phenomenal deal. It is 7 years old with low hours and no rust at all.




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  19. #94
    KNEE DRAGGING BAGGER sedanman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    NICE!

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  20. #95
    Senior Member B440's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Quote Originally Posted by BostonSVkid View Post
    So I ended up with a 36" Ariens Pro Series (used). Thing is the balls and I got a Phenomenal deal. It is 7 years old with low hours and no rust at all.




    I'm pretty sure I see rust on the wheel. Does this one have a locking/unlocking differential? Or steering capability? I ask because I have the 28" model and it's a biiizatch to turn it when the wheels are locked together.

    You may also want to invest in some longer, plastic skids if you're going to roll over those patio pavers.
    Snowblower-img_2625-jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Snowblower-img_2625-jpg  

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  21. #96
    Lifer BostonSVkid's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    The brown on the wheels is dirt and some rust run off from the nut that holds the wheel on (wipes right off). As for turning it seemed pretty easy to me and it has positraction (more something you use while running into large piles). I don't think you can expect a snow blower to only turn on one wheel when you pull the trigger (at least I don't expect it to). Oh and that's my dads driveway (my new driveway is fully paved and no pavers).

    Quote Originally Posted by B440 View Post
    I'm pretty sure I see rust on the wheel. Does this one have a locking/unlocking differential? Or steering capability? I ask because I have the 28" model and it's a biiizatch to turn it when the wheels are locked together.

    You may also want to invest in some longer, plastic skids if you're going to roll over those patio pavers.

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  22. #97
    Senior Member B440's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Doh, lol. I should've looked back to page one. What size engine on that? You're going to love how far it throws snow. Mine needed new belts right after I got it. I waited until the first storm to buy, and the every box store that sold belts was wiped clean of them.

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  23. #98
    Lifer Garandman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    If it's 2005+, there is a handle under the left handlebar that locks the differential. Before that, there is a handle on the left wheel to lock or unlock the differential. He has the handle. Also the newer Carlisle X Trac tires. I think that one has electric chute control as well as electric start via the battery. Looks like the 358cc Tecumseh OHV engine. (I have the 318cc model). A torque monster and surprisingly good on gas.


    • Having spare belts is a good idea, they're not expensive.
    • Don't forget shear pins!
    • Get a grease gun, pull the shear pins, grease the zerks, rotate the augers on the shaft a couple times, and put the shear pins back in.
    • If the augers won't rotate on the shaft, hit them with a heat gun until you can break them loose. Otherwise your auger gearbox becomes your shear pin.
    • Check the tire pressures. They should be something like 12 psi. Many owners overinflate them so they can move them around more easily off season, and then you have no traction.
    • Chevrolet Engine Orange is the exact same color as Ariens Orange (and Kubota) but costs much less per can. Use Duro Extend or another rust neutralizer first.
    • Check the friction disk, it's cheap and not hard to change and you can run into problems if it is worn flat.
    • Check the lubricant level in the auger gearbox. Make sure you get the right lube: Ariens has one for aluminum and one for cast iron.
    • Put fuel stabilizer in your can before you fill it. Shut off the fuel and let the engine run out after each use, then look underneath the carb for a spring loaded fuel bowl drain screw. Pust up on it with a tuna can or tablespoon and it will drain all the fuel out of the carb.
    • Check the electric starter before you need it: they will start a cold engine that is extremely difficult to start in low temps.
    • Those 1336's are pretty heavy but you can purchase a 10 lb weight kit for the bucket. It helps with the EOD pile.

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    Last edited by Garandman; 01-06-15 at 09:22 AM.
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  24. #99
    Lifer BostonSVkid's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    Thanks Garandman. Yes its a 2007 with a 13 HP motor (358 cc as stated above). Yes it has the keyed electric start with a HO brand new battery. Belts are brand new just put in this year. I will be picking up shear pins and a grease gun soon since I am moving into the new house in February.

    I appreciate all the other info I will print this out and post it in the garage. I have an ariens dealer about 5 minutes from my house so I have readily available parts. thanks All.

    Quote Originally Posted by Garandman View Post
    If it's 2005+, there is a handle under the left handlebar that locks the differential. Before that, there is a handle on the left wheel to lock or unlock the differential. He has the handle. Also the newer Carlisle X Trac tires. I think that one has electric chute control as well as electric start via the battery. Looks like the 358cc Tecumseh OHV engine. (I have the 318cc model).


    • Having spare belts is a good idea, they're not expensive.
    • Don't forget shear pins!
    • Get a grease gun, pull the shear pins, grease the zerks, rotate the augers on the shaft a couple times, and put the shear pins back in.
    • If the augers won't rotate on the shaft, hit them with a heat gun until you can break them loose. Otherwise your auger gearbox becomes your shear pin.
    • Check the tire pressures. They should be something like 12 psi. Many owners overinflate them so they can move them around more easily off season, and then you have no traction.
    • Chevrolet Engine Orange is the exact same color as Ariens Orange (and Kubota) but costs much less per can.
    • Check the friction disk, it's cheap and not hard to change and you can run into problems if it is worn flat.
    • Check the lubricant level in the auger gearbox. Make sure you get the right lube: Ariens has one for aluminum and one for cast iron.
    • Put fuel stabilizer in your can before you fill it. Shut off the fuel and let the engine run out after each use, then look underneath the carb for a spring loaded fuel bowl drain screw. Pust up on it with a tuna can or tablespoon and it will drain all the fuel out of the carb.
    • Check the electric starter before you need it: they will start a cold engine that is extremely difficult to start in low temps.
    • Those 1336's are pretty heavy but you can purchase a 10 lb weight kit for the bucket. It helps with the EOD pile.

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  25. #100
    Lifer Garandman's Avatar
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    Re: Snowblower

    I got a small (3 ounce) grease gun at Harbor Freight for $10.

    Isn't Southie real estate crazy? Our neighbor had a run-down house with double lot she apparently sold to condo developers for $1.1 million.

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    Last edited by Garandman; 01-06-15 at 11:29 AM.
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