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Wood heat

  1. #26
    Lifer golden chicken's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat


    How much wood in a day (dead of winter) are you guys putting through the stove if you are using it for your main source of heat? I'm curious.

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  2. #27
    Changes come butcher bergs's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    We average a cord a month. No idea how to gauge daily consumption as it changes significantly depending on the temp of the house.

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  3. #28
    Development Rider scottieducati's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by butcher bergs View Post
    We average a cord a month. No idea how to gauge daily consumption as it changes significantly depending on the temp of the house.
    Daaaaamn! I remember stacking up a cord or two each fall. Canít imagine that much every month!


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  4. #29
    Lifer golden chicken's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by butcher bergs View Post
    We average a cord a month. No idea how to gauge daily consumption as it changes significantly depending on the temp of the house.
    So...if a cord is 128 cubic feet, then divided by 4 weeks is 32 cubic feet, divided by 7 days is between 4 and 5 cubic feet of wood.

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  5. #30
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by golden chicken View Post
    So...if a cord is 128 cubic feet, then divided by 4 weeks is 32 cubic feet, divided by 7 days is between 4 and 5 cubic feet of wood.
    Yes, I understand the math of it as long as it's clear that the daily calculation represents an average as well.

    Some days might be 2cu/ft if the house is already warm and other days might be upwards of 10cu/ft if the house is cold. It still averages to 5cu/ft in that example but in reality, 5cu/ft is not the actual daily consumption.

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  6. #31
    Back on 2 wheels yay StrayNut's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Awesome, thank you everyone.

    Quote Originally Posted by SRTie4k View Post
    We bought a Pacific Energy Vista insert last winter.

    Very happy with the quality and price of these stoves.
    That is great to hear Ė size and output sounds like it would be around what we're looking for, and the Vista was one of the ones I was looking at.

    Quote Originally Posted by e30addict View Post
    Why not a pellet insert or stove. Lot less work and quicker to fire up if you want cozy? Biggest down downside to them I can see are power outages but that can be solved with a generator if need be.
    We actually started out looking at pellet, and it's still an option, but I think not needing power or a noisy blower (for stove, I guess not insert) was attractive. I looked at gravity fed briefly too, but didn't get far yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    I installed a Regency Hampton almost 10 years ago.

    If you have an existing fireplace that is anywhere near modern then I can't imagine you'd have much trouble meeting code. The book says (or said) that the space needs to be lined with x-inches of non-combustible material. It doesn't say it has to be a concrete pad or massive marble slab (or BOTH like that video). IIRC you can buy pre-fab pads for standalone stoves from most stove shops.
    That's all really helpful, thank you. I'd never heard of the sawdust bricks. I don't know how modern is modern, house was built in the 40s and it seems like the fireplace is original.

    Quote Originally Posted by freezinvt View Post
    Whether you choose an insert or a hearth stove can depend on what your intent is. If you want something that still looks like a fireplace and will actually help heat a room then an insert is a great option. If you're looking for a source of heat that can also act as a back up heat source if the power goes out then I generally recommend a hearth stove to my customers. Inserts generally utilize a blower to push air around the unit and then into the room. The one big downside to this is that of the power goes out the blower won't run and with more then half the unit buried inside of the fireplace you're limiting it's ability to provide heat.

    Aesthetics can also play a part in the decision. Inserts almost always look better in a fireplace then a hearth stove, which is just a wood stove located on the hearth of a fireplace. Some modern inserts also utilize large door glass to help provide more of the look of an open fire.

    Regardless of which you choose, you'll want to make sure an insulated, stainless steel, chimney liner is used. Almost all the manufacturer's require the use of the liner but some installers will skip the insulation or only run the liner just past the damper in the fireplace and call it good, it isn't.

    In no real order Pacific Energy, Blaze King, Regency, and Napoleon make pretty cost effective stoves. There's others too but these have become the most common in my area. Unless you find something in the higher end stuff (Hearthstone, VT Castings, Woodstock, Jotul, etc.) that really does something for you then don't bother spending the extra money. Jotul is one of the few "premium" brands that I recommend but it's still hard to justify the extra cost, in my opinion. Soapstone does give off heat differently then cast iron or steel, so there's that too.

    A couple other things that can factor into all this is whether your fireplace sits flush with the floor or has a raised hearth, is it a traditional masonry fireplace, a "heatalator" style metal firebox, or a prefab fireplace.
    Also really helpful, thank you! Aesthetics aren't a big part of the decision but they are a factor, and also easier to keep the kids away from an insert.

    Quote Originally Posted by butcher bergs View Post
    I'd also recommend a temp gauge on the stove pipe so you have some type of reference of your operating temps. I speak from experience when I say a chimney fire is something you want to avoid.
    Thank you! And yikes, sorry to hear about the chimney fire. Hope everything turned out okay.

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  7. #32
    Lifer ZX-12R's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    I have a Hearthstone Mansfield and really like how it performs. It has a massive thermal mass (600ish lbs) so it takes a while to get up to temperature but once rolling, it provides nice steady heat. Due to its size, it's tough to run it low enough when the temperatures outside are 35 or above without making the house too hot. It's sweet spot is when outdoor temps are between 15-25 degrees.

    Unfortunately our yellow lab is no longer with us, but our golden retrievers enjoy the heat too.
    Wood heat-mansfield-jpg

    Wood heat-mansfield-jpg

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  8. #33
    Kosher Assassin Stoneman's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Yes, a appliance specific thermometer for the stove pipe is a must.

    It's impossible for me to gauge how much we use in a year, never mind a month, week or day. Besides having so many natural variables (outside temps, barometric pressure, etc.), differences in firewood vary greatly as well (type of wood, how well it's dried, age of wood, etc.). As I pointed out, we've used as little as 3 cord/year but have also used up our +/-6 cord a time or two. I wouldn't even venture a guess.

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  9. #34
    Lifer jimmycapp's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    I'm really happy having a freestanding stove. I run this large floor fan blowing hot air off the stove. Really circulates and evenly(ish) heats the house.

    Wood heat-2fd1c201-7a1d-4ead-90b9-7d858b929181

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    Last edited by jimmycapp; 10-22-21 at 08:00 AM.

  10. #35
    Burns retinas nhbubba's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Mapp gas for fire starting? Come on! Rescinding your boy-scout badge. You are supposed to spend 20 minutes on your hands and knees gently blowing on the pile of wet kindling while you fill the house with smoke, only to have the fire go out the moment you turn your back!

    One catch with an insert is that you cannot easily get to the stovepipe to measure temps. I just wing it.

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  11. #36
    Lifer TIMMYDUCK's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Older Liberty Bell 🔔 .

    Works great as a primary heat source.

    Uses a cord and then some on average each month .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wood heat-10366664-f66e-4c86-a6bb-3cf9b2fe45c4  

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  12. #37
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    Mapp gas for fire starting? Come on! Rescinding your boy-scout badge. You are supposed to spend 20 minutes on your hands and knees gently blowing on the pile of wet kindling while you fill the house with smoke, only to have the fire go out the moment you turn your back!

    One catch with an insert is that you cannot easily get to the stovepipe to measure temps. I just wing it.
    I use Mapp gass and a couple of busted up cedar shingles.... but gonna give up the shingles as nice as they work for kindling, you can get big chunks going without intermediate sized wood. They have gone from $7 a bundle of grade d shingles (shingles used for shimming)to $35, I have used 2-3 bundles per season, instead this year, I'm gonna fill a barrel with dry pine/hemlock branches and birch bark if I can find any. I hate using paper to start a fire, the smoke stinks, what gets out in the house stinks, what comes out the chimney stinks, then the neighborhood thinks I'm burning garbage in my furnace, I've been on the same bottle of Mapp gas for I don't know how many seasons, 10 or more, but think it's running out finally.

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  13. #38
    Development Rider scottieducati's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by TIMMYDUCK View Post
    Older Liberty Bell Wood heat .

    Works great as a primary heat source.

    Uses a cord and then some on average each month .
    That looks awesome!


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  14. #39
    Changes come butcher bergs's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by StrayNut View Post
    Thank you! And yikes, sorry to hear about the chimney fire. Hope everything turned out okay.
    Everything turned out fine. My wife wanted to call the FD and I told her "not until the roof catches fire" as I'm sitting there with a garden hose spraying the side of the house. It was an exciting night, no doubt.

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  15. #40
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by butcher bergs View Post
    Everything turned out fine. My wife wanted to call the FD and I told her "not until the roof catches fire" as I'm sitting there with a garden hose spraying the side of the house. It was an exciting night, no doubt.
    a small paper cup filled with water, tossed into the stove, will put a chimney fire out, it immediately turns to steam cutting off the oxygen source for the fire

    edit: I will add, that when I tried this tip, I had flames shooting 10-15ft out of my chimney and it sounded like a freight train, and poof, out like a light switch

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    Last edited by RandyO; 10-22-21 at 06:11 PM.
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  16. #41

    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by butcher bergs View Post
    Everything turned out fine. My wife wanted to call the FD and I told her "not until the roof catches fire" as I'm sitting there with a garden hose spraying the side of the house. It was an exciting night, no doubt.
    Just out of curiosity, was your chimney fire in a chimney with clay tiles or a stainless liner?

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  17. #42
    Changes come butcher bergs's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by freezinvt View Post
    Just out of curiosity, was your chimney fire in a chimney with clay tiles or a stainless liner?
    All-fuel chimney pipe.

    In hindsight, the PO's were burning varnished wood and other low quality combustibles and I believe creosote had built up in the horizontal pipe that exits the house, caught fire and just kept torching away.

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  18. #43

    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by butcher bergs View Post
    All-fuel chimney pipe.

    In hindsight, the PO's were burning varnished wood and other low quality combustibles and I believe creosote had built up in the horizontal pipe that exits the house, caught fire and just kept torching away.
    Sorry, made the assumption it was in a masonry chimney. You probably already checked, but if you're still using that chimney you should take a good look at the inner lining. After a good chimney fire the interior usually ends up warped and annealed, the chimney should replaced at that point.

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  19. #44
    Changes come butcher bergs's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Everything was replaced from the stove pipe up the following Spring. The fire was nearly 11yrs ago at this point but we are still diligent about annual inspection just the same.

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  20. #45
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by Stoneman View Post
    Yes, a appliance specific thermometer for the stove pipe is a must.
    I just run a universal magnetic surface thermometer, I have it safety wired as well, do not have an internal flue sensor

    I try to keep my pipe surface temp between 250 & 350 for continuous running, closer to 350, but unless its dead of winter, that cooks me out of my house.
    I make sure I get it to 500+ for a half hour, when I start a fire, and at least once a month, I get the temp to 800-900 for a half hour or more, this practice keeps my chimney relatively creosote free, its just the beginning of the season and end, with small fires that I let go out, that build up creosote.

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  21. #46
    Lifer nt650hawk's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Love my 1978 Vermont casting Resolute. Wish i had the 1977 Vermont castings vigilant (at the Cabin) here at home for the bigger box but this requires the bigger pipe which i do not have unless i rebuild the chimney. Just fired it up today. I burn anything!


    Wood heat-20211025_125921-jpgWood heat-20211025_125856-jpg



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    Last edited by nt650hawk; 10-25-21 at 12:12 PM.
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  22. #47

    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by nt650hawk View Post
    Love my 1978 Vermont casting Resolute. Wish i had the 1977 Vermont castings vigilant (at the Cabin) here at home for the bigger box but this requires the bigger pipe which i do not have unless i rebuild the chimney. Just fired it up today. I burn anything!
    For whatever it's worth, those old Vigilants needed 8" pipe because they were designed to run with the doors open and a screen over the opening so they could double as a "fireplace". With all the dilution air when the doors are open they needed the extra pipe volume. Generally, if they're run with the doors closed, they work fine with a 6" flue.

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  23. #48
    Lifer nt650hawk's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    GTK

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  24. #49
    Lifer TIMMYDUCK's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    My foster hound was shivering this morning.

    So heating season has arrived.

    Cost me 325 to top off the oil tank . ( 108 gallons )

    Commence Operation Winter Burn .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wood heat-a1cba78e-5e04-46db-8801-2f25c96c3f69   Wood heat-3bccabd8-b658-4f75-9460-e7963a7fec7e  

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  25. #50
    Kosher Assassin Stoneman's Avatar
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    Re: Wood heat

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyO View Post
    I just run a universal magnetic surface thermometer, I have it safety wired as well, do not have an internal flue sensor
    Yeah, that's what I'm talking about. I replace it every couple years due to dust & shit getting in the spring and losing accuracy. It's probably overkill, but it's short money for peace of mind.


    Quote Originally Posted by RandyO View Post
    I try to keep my pipe surface temp between 250 & 350 for continuous running, closer to 350, but unless its dead of winter, that cooks me out of my house.
    I make sure I get it to 500+ for a half hour,
    Sounds about right. I do the same thing, letting the fire blaze for about 20-30 minutes when starting from cold.

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