07 KTM 450 XCW HELP!

[out thumped]

What to do, What to do?

I have spent a fortune on this bike, Scotts stabilizer, FC suspention, rebuilt just 300 miles ago, fuel screw, boyson qs2, the list goes on and on! I spent $3,000.00 3-400 miles ago, this bike is dialed in for me, my wt and riding style, or lack of it.

I rode the Classic and took some mud on in a mud hole. I am told I need a NEW engine and it will run approx $2,500.00-$3,000.

Here is where I need some advise.
I am a public servant and don't have money to burn again.

I can part the suka out, I have never done this and it sounds like a lot of work. What could i get for a blown up bike?

Anyone know where to buy a complete new engine?

How about a used engine. Can a 525 fit in the 450 frame?
If i could break even, I would love to switch to a cheap 2t. No more $1,000.00 rebuilds.
I am old and slow and nerotic about maintanance, I just have no luck.
Any and all advise is apreciated.
Thanks,
OT

[R7]

That sucks!
Did it suck mud in the airbox or the crankcase vent?
I had a similar issue with my 525 EXC with water but didn't have an engine problem, water in the airbox.

From what I've read, all the RFS engines (400, 450 and 525) are the same as far as bolt up patterns go, so a 525 should fit.

I'm at 230 hours on my 525 and haven't touched the motor yet. I remember reading your post about the rebuild and what it cost and figured I'm just going to ride it until it doesn't run anymore, then part it out. Take the whatever I get and buy a new 530EXC. While I am losing some confidence in reliability because the the miles/hours on my bike, it still runs awesome so i'm guessing I'll still have it for a while

Good luck with whatever you do

[Paul_E_D]

I would at least post up a few requests for motors on KTM talk etc. Someone else may be parting out an RFS. Short of that, parting it out and getting a 2stroke for even money seems doable with all the great parts you put on that thing. It's not tough, it just takes time. Some items may not sell quickly, while others you could sell 5 times over.

Serious bummer, but I just went through this with my 2 stroke... cost was about 700 bucks for a full motor rebuild with new crank/rod. So it can happen to a 2 stroke as well. I'd say operating costs are nearly even in the long run. Maybe a slight edge to the 2t. Maint on the otherhand is light years easier on the 2t, though more frequent.

I think once you RIDE a newer 2t, you won't want a heavy pig ever again, but that's just my opinion.

[Awesome]

Who's telling you what you need and did they tell you WHY you need it?

I've been told by dealerships that I need a new 600RR engine when all I needed what a better quality oil.

[seth399]

ya x2, what is the reason for "new motor"?

[Kurlon]

Ok, so your motor might have ingested mud... so, cylinder, crank, valves, maybe rockers and cam? If you REALLY, and I mean REALLY managed to ham it up, cases or transmission parts? I'd be floored though if you did.

Now you've got an opportunity to do the crank bearing upgrade, consider a bore kit, and send your head out for oversized valves and a lil port love. I'd look at it as an opportunity.

[out thumped]

Hello,
Yes the bike runs, smokes alot.
I just did a complete top end rebuild at Masons and it was around 800.00.

They took the filters and screens and saw mud in there and in the carb.
I was told once the dirt circulated through the bottom it is very bad.
They are looking into the cost of a new engine and thought it might be $2,500.00-$3,000.00.
I do the minor stuff, but rebuilding a 4 stroke is out of my league.

The bike was running better than new. I stalled in a mud bog on Saturday. I did not think it was all that deep and I did not fall over. My feet did not even get wet, I have been in worse. My electric start had already shorted out and I stupidly kicked away in the puddle. I finally gave up,put a new fuse in and it fired right up with the e-start.

It rode fine until near the top of the ledges where it stalled and then I was hearing some top end clatter. Bike cooled down and ran fine back to camp.
I rarely rev this bike and change the oil and air filter every 10 hrs.
At camp I could not see the oil in the window, well very low and I had to tip the bike to see it.
I put in a whole liter.
When I started it it was now smoking worse than a rich 2t.
I assumed that the sight glass was smoked and I could not see oil now either.
The bike rode fine, although I did let Lafferty pass me as I did not want to push the smoking beast. I assumed extra oil would burn off and not damage anything if I kept the rpms down.
I made it to the first reset, 10 miles and the bike started running like it was not carborated right. I dropped the oil and the brand new liter was black and smelled burnt. The magnetic drain plug was covered in what looked like mud. I assumed it was metal clutch material, the magnetic nipple was not visible.
I gave up and got a ride back to camp.
I spent all my $ in the last rebuild and decided to keep the bike and sunk $3,000.00 in motor, carb, plastics, tires, chain, sprockets etc...

Masons did a great job, but I am busted and my wife will leave me if I spend that much a second time 300 miles later.
Thanks for the help.
OT

[Awesome]

I think whoever works on your stuff sees $$ everytime your number comes up on caller id or you pull in the parking lot.

"Man your air filter is wicked dirty, that means this engine is all done, I'll get you a great deal on a new one though."

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

I think whoever works on your stuff sees $$ everytime your number comes up on caller id or you pull in the parking lot.

"Man your air filter is wicked dirty, that means this engine is all done, I'll get you a great deal on a new one though."

I think he was saying Oil Filter and Screens,

[Awesome]

I think he was saying Oil Filter and Screens,

I was being somewhat facetious.

[Kurlon]

Ok, so crank/rod are likely ok, I'm thinking you're looking at rings, maybe piston and a replate on your bore? I wouldn't be at the panic stage yet. Drop the motor, split it, clean it out, and deal with what you need to on the top end.

This is part of the risk/cost associated with this type of riding.

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

I was being somewhat facetious.

Stop Using Big Words

[Tricky Mike]

Stop Using Big Words

Stop Using Big Letters



The RFS is a pretty easy motor to work on... I've pulled one from the frame, split the cases and had it back running in a few hours.

[Awesome]

You should see my mechanic. He's a good man. And thorough.

[out thumped]

You should see my mechanic. He's a good man. And thorough.

Do tell.

[out thumped]

I am uncertain how the mud got in as the air filter was clean and I stuck a paper towel past it an it was also clean.

If my crank case breather hose was rerouted into the air box, where whould mud get in.
I did kick it numerous times in the hole. could enough mud get sucked up the carb hose to do it.
They did find mud in the carb.
I think Mason's is giving me the worst case scenario as they have not taken it apart yet. They are a great shp, not cheap, (like all shops) but definately fair and only sell KTM, so the know these bikes better than most.
I love a good mystery, just not an expensive one.
Thanks,
OT

[Awesome]

Do tell.

Jim Pigeon in manchester. Can't find his number right now.

[lrrs313]

I highly doubt you need a new motor. My motor (KTM 560) ate a crank bearing last year at Loudon. LOTS of metal floating around in the motor, and I didn't know what had happened, so I didn't exactly shut it down immediately (probably another 4-5 laps). I replaced the bearings, cleaned the shit out of the motor, replaced the piston, honed the cylinder, and away I went. Runs real strong (ask Black Squirrel).