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Same price, $2500, same condition which one would you get and why?
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
busa
go big or go home
-Pete LRRS/CCS #81 - ECK Racing, TonysTrackDays
GMD Computrack Boston | Pine Motorparts/PBE Specialists | Phoenix Graphics | Woodcraft | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
The Garage: '03 Tuono | '06 SV650
bemused
Get a 250x fag you can get it street legal in your state, and I don't mean your mentally retahded state. I mean VT.
KB
You guys are helpful.
I'll be using it for trail riding, a little motocross type stuff that kinda thing. I think I am gonna stick with the 250.
If I could find an X for $2500 I would get that.
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
Great bike, but don't go for the cheapest CRF you can find. The head and valves are a problem area on the 04-06. I replaced my head with an 07R, supposed to cure the problem, parts alone cost a least $600. I usually do a airfilter and only change every 100 miles, valves should to be checked every 3 or 4 rides.
CRFs Only :: View topic - TOP END
If your not going to race I'd go with an X , you gotta love the magic button.
http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...4-crf250x.html
Kevin
Last edited by KevinB; 11-20-07 at 09:07 AM.
You can say that again!
(just another helpful reply)
Hey, did ½Squid sell that 250X that I sold him? He had it listed on here.
GREAT woods bike. The suspension is too soft for a heavier rider on mx, but it's not a "soft" playbike either. The X doesn't rev as high as the R, unless you cut the pink wire. The X has a lot of over-rev, so no need to try to float the valves with it.
Chris
Did you ever end up with any sleds?
Kevin
Sleds are on hold for now. Somebody put a deposit down on a F800GS instead.![]()
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
How about this
$4300 OTD at Naults
Welcome to Nault's Honda Powerhouse
look under non current models
I priced it that high because I really didn't want to part with it. But I need to..
Interested.
Rides: 13 Hyperstada, 09 SFV650, 97 CBR 900RR
www.tailofthedragon.com
RIP A.B. RIP BEET, I Ride in Leathers because I would rather sweat than Bleed...
I didn't realize $3500 was high. I am all over it a $2500, I'd rather help you than a "stranger"
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
Are you joking me?
I find basically all of the above information slightly unsettling.
Main item with 4st dirtbikes is keeping up with the simple things. That is changing the oil, oil filter, and air filter often. 100 miles between air filter and oil changes is insane! You should be changing your air filter EVERY ride if it's normal dirt conditions (dry, dusty, muddy) and you can sort of go every other ride if it's not dry, dusty, or muddy. For instance when I rode at MototownUSA I'd normally go two rides per air filter since there is basically no dust in that place, more of a hard packed clay. Oil / Oil Filter should be changed every two rides, no more than every three rides AT MOST. This is especially true with the 250 4st's as they rev up a bit higher and cycle through the oil even more rapidly. Both the 250's and 450's though don't have huge oil reserves and contaminate the oil rather quickly. It's very very worth it to keep up on this.
Also checking the valves every 3 - 4 rides is also completely off-base. The rule of thumb is every 12-15 hours of riding time (motocross) for valve checks, and even then it's just 'being safe'.
Here's some real world feedback:
2006 CRF250F - Owned by ME
-------------------------------
I got this bike in October of 2006 off of a New England Motocross racer. The bike had 58 hours on it, measured with a hour meter. It just had a full valve job before I bought it and was ready to go. The bike now has 82 hours on it. I've done... oil and air filter changes and THAT'S IT. Almost 30 hours of ride time on it since I purchased the bike and it still starts 1st or 2nd kick. (a hard starting bike is one of the signs of your valves being off). No valve clicking, no hard starting, still pulls like a powerhouse.
2005 CRF250F - Owned by my Boss, former NE MX Pro
---------------------------
This bike has over 40 hours of riding on it. My boss is a former NE Pro MX'er and still rips the shit of of the track. He's only changed the oil and filter, and even that he slacks on. Granted his bike is a bit hammered and tired right now, but that has more to do with the fact he rides like a fast expert / pro and flogs it. Any bike gets tired after that much abuse. He's about it get it rebuilt and refreshed 'just cause'.
2006 CRF450F - Owned by Jay Root
---------------------------
Jay raced a full LRRS season on his CRF450 motard and yet again.. only changed the oil and air filters. Bike ran hard all season, still pulling teen's at the end, and that's that.
Again, point is to keep up on the oil and air filter (dirt particles get past the dirty air filter and fuck the valves up) and set a schedule for larger checks. I plan on checking my valves and doing a shim job in the next month.
Also, don't get the 450. 450 MX bikes are stump pullers and not exactly the best choice for a new rider. I love my 250F and if I was to replace it tomorrow with a brand new MX bike... I'd get another 250F. 250F's are lighter, easier to manage the power, and still rock the party power wise.
Boston --> San Diego
Thanks Alex.
Looks like I am getting Half Squids CRF250x
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
Cool. Probably the best choice for you (x-model)
Boston --> San Diego
Hey... what is that supposed to mean?!![]()
![]()
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
re: fanatical 4-t maintenance
There's a lot less WFO for a typical trail rider vs. a mx rider. Dusty conditions? Yes, service the air filter more often. However, a woods rider is not WFO much of the time. Therefore, less intake vacuum sucking dust past the filter, less redline action stretching the valve stems & mashing the seats, and the engine & transmission oil (the CRF has separate oil "baths") isn't in such a constant frothing action.
I believe much of the Honda's purported maladies are the result of the valves' Ti coating getting worn permaturely? IMO, that's not going to be nearly as much an issue for the casual rider as it is for a closed-course racer. But, it is an eventuality that the head will need $ervicing. I agree, keeping on top of maintenance of a modern 4-t is key. But, it needent be something that is feared.
Doc that X is what you want man. You can even MoTahd it. The wheels and tires from just about any new frame style CR or CRF will fit right up.
Nice score.
KB
No, I'm not joking you.
I believe the information I posted is more than adequate for your average recreational rider. I must have missed the part were he said he was going to be racing SuperCross.
I ride enduros and turkey runs, usually 60-90 miles. That makes doing oil and air filters that often a little difficult. I'm also not on the pipe, and bouncing off the limiter all day either.My 04 X motor was rebuilt last winter, and valves have only been checked once after break in,typically these valves stay in spec until the coating wears off. By time its probably best to replace them or chance having on break.
My maint. schedule for my 04 X
air filter and motor oil every ride/race woods (60-100mi)or 5-8 hours
clutch oil 15-20 hours (200-300mi)
motor oil filter 15-20 hours (200-300mi)
winter overhaul includes
piston/rings
chain/spockets
check/adjust valves
rebuild forks/shock
replace bearings
air filter and motor oil every ride/race woods (60-100mi)or 5-8 hours - Well that makes sense since you do long rides and races. The, as you put it, average recreational rider doesn't ride for 60+ miles at a time or 5-8 hour eh?
clutch oil 15-20 hours (200-300mi) - Crazy. I don't even use the clutch much and still find 200 miles per oil change nuts.
motor oil filter 15-20 hours (200-300mi) - Also crazy. It's a $4 part and easy to do when changing your engine oil.
Overall it takes 1 - 1.5 hours to do a full oil and filters change. Even I can handle that.
PS: I don't race. I'm a 'average recreational rider'.
Anyway. Do what works best for you based on your research. That's what I do (see above) and KevinB has his system, which seems to work for him. Bottom line is, like ChR1s said, 4st off-road bikes aren't quite as scary as some make them out to be.
Boston --> San Diego