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While tearing into my antique to replace the shift shaft I found the power valve thrust bracket floating free. The retaining ring/seal was also obviously rotated. Anyone got a pic or instructions so I can get it oriented correctly and locked back in place?
Figured it out. Now I get to wait for the following to arrive before I button the bike back up:
5mm thread repair kit for the power valve thrust bracket
New 5mm screw for said bracket
Waterpump cover gasket
One new friction disc, one of mine is missing a chunk where a tab went. Dunno how long it's been like that, suspect since I got it, pissed I never caught that detail till now.
Brake pedal pivot bolt
The OEM clutch springs are noticeably shorter and thinner than what was in there, I suspect the clutch will work just a wee bit better with the right springs and fully intact frictions. Anyone got any tips for folding up the clutch nut lock tabs without beating the piss out of the hub underneath in the process?
sell it!!!Originally Posted by Kurlon
Fuck no!
I'm sorry, but the WR and I have bonded, it shall go with me to my grave. Besides, if I sell it, that money won't get me anything viable for Stimilon and I'm already registered. I'm looking at $100 in parts plus a little elbow grease to start the year for a dirty bike, I don't think that's a sign of the apocalypse just yet. Half that parts cost isn't required work, it's me just tinkering and upgrading 'cause I know it can be better to boot. A suspension refresh last year, one Franklin this year, I don't think the WR is treating me badly.
I just need a better trick for folding those dang lock tabs, trying to get a screwdriver or chisel underneath beats the poor hub up.
I too have a fondness for my old 1990 rm125. I get pissed when my newer bikes break down but the old rm has never given me a lick of problems. I actually took it out today and the rear wheel felt sloppy so i popped it off and my wheel bearings feel out. 20 bucks on ebay and ill be rolling next week. As far as i can remember they are the original ones too. I dont recall ever having changed them.
I buy and sell newer dirty bikes all the time but ive kept this one forever. Its like a son to me. Bone stock too which is probably why its never given me a problem.
I usually use a pair of Channelocks, and use the first serration of the top jaw to grab onto the edge of the washer, and put the other jaw up against the nut. Then, in kind of a bending/rocking motion, I rock the edge of the washer upwards as far as I can get it to go, re-grip, and pull it in tight against the nut. If you have a hard time getting the initial bite, use a small 90 degree screwdriver to get the washer started. Needle nose vise-grips work well also.
Last edited by gregp; 04-09-12 at 07:08 AM.
Thanks, that sounds like a much kinder technique than what I've been doing.
New clutch springs and fiber in, I can now work the clutch with one hand without getting arm pump on the first squeeze.
New shift shaft in, good god were my splines warn, new shaft is an updated design I see too so other subtle improvements from Yamaha to figure out there too.
Powervalve is sorted, heli-coil to the rescue.
I think I'm going to pick up a new pipe for it while they're still on the market given that mine is bashed in and bent to the point that I have to use safety wire to mount it.
The WReck will live for another season!
I had a 92 WR200....it still is (was) my favorite dirty bike.![]()
2008 Fisher-Price Kawi 12VDC
Exide hi-performance battery
Frost-King duct tape reinforced steering damper
Topps "Garbage Pail Kids" custom graphics
Took the WR out for a group ride with the local ATV club. Did 35 miles in 4 hours non-stop yesterday, my butt is still misshapen and sore. New pipe and the PV cleanup helped a ton, zings are on demand now. Still got a couple issues though.
A) New shift shaft + New shifter and the damn thing still loosened up?! Not cool. Going to investigate that to see what I can sort out.
B) Clutch drag, even with the softer OEM springs. Once the bike is warmed up it's not as bad, but I still have to do maint throttle and hold the bike still with the rear brake while in 1st with the clutch in. If I try and rev it appreciably while doing so you can feel the clutch start grabbing and once started you either dump and roll for a bit or stall. Not sure what the culprit is now, basket, hub, clutch pack are all good. New pushrod and pushlever, pushrod assembly has been shimmed so I get maximum clutch action. My next item to try is a new clutch perch to see if I can get more cable pull from that end?
One other minor thing I ran across, the bike would ping occasionally in the slow sections, making me think I need to richen it up. On the other hand, it was drooling spooge pretty bad at the silencer joint which says otherwise? I'm running 32:1, maybe I should go to 40:1 which will cut the oil down and richen the mix at the same time?
If you use an aluminium shift lever on a Yamaha, it will get looser every 4 hrs. I always used a cheap steel Moose or MSR type shifter on my old YZ125 and it was much better.
I've been using the cheap MSR units, hard to argue with $10 vs $70 for Yamaha's OEM aluminum.
Paul: Very well could be fouling a touch, come to think of it I lit it up that day without the choke... Eh, throttle response is good, I can live with drool if it means I'm not hurting the engine.![]()
clutch drag could be due to the new friction plate. it will absorb more oil as it gets hot and essentially get thicker. adjust the cable. if youre out of adjustment it may be time for a new cable
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
The clutch drag has been present from the start, I only tossed a new friction in as I found one of the Barnett Dirt Diggers in there was missing a chunk during my last round of work. Current cable has a ton of adjustment left, I have a new cable ready to go also but it's too short... stupid motion pro...
Dude...where do I get an "ebay special" sticker?!
That is awesome!
Bike looks good. Just in time for Stimilon!
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Heh, had them custom made for Stimilon last year. I have a front one for the number plate/light but it came off with the pressure washer. I never noticed the prior owner had spray painted the white plastic... white?! Oh well, a lil spray adhesive fixed that problem.
In the mean time, it looks like UFO actually makes all the plastic for my bike. I could bring it back to pretty white for a mere $300... or not.
Yeah no...do you even have $300 into the bike? LOL.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
One does not discuss amounts when talking about cash amounts involved in boondoggles such as this project.
Edit: Paul with the assist, nice!
Last edited by Kurlon; 05-13-12 at 03:54 PM.
Superstitious freaks.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
are your frictions OEM?
I noticed barnett frictions just didn't fit right, but OEM did, and I could finally rev the bike in 1st gear without it lurching away from me.
stupid barnett:
awesome OEM:
![]()
You sure it wasn't more due to that being the wrong basket?![]()
ha, that bike was wrong in everything
but no...I used the basket from the top picture (hinson) with the friction plates in the lower picture (OEM), and voila! bike that went into gear without grabbing so much
but remember, Paul always used to say this...2 smoke mx bikes are grabby in 1st gear by nature...expect a little drag, but at least this one doesn't have an adam's apple