Finding neutral

[Pittenger5]

04 CRF250, thing is damn near impossible to find neutral on, even reaching down with my hand to try and get it. Every other gear seems fine, shifting without any problems. Just cant get neutral. Easy fix? Tough fix? New transmission? Deal with it?

[Rada]

Notches on the clutch hub and basket?? Likely candidates.

[Kitt]

Notches on the clutch hub and basket?? Likely candidates.

what he said... grooved clutch basket, worn clutch cable, needed oil change (or wrong oil used)

... In order of most expensive to least expensive fix.

[TTD]

My KTM 450exc is the same way.

I find it easiest to get into neutral from second gear when rolling real slow.

Having said that, many times I struggle a few seconds and then just shut the damn thing off and say screw it.

I guess I would prefer this, than hitting a false neutral when shifting gears.

[Fast_Eddie]

Just downshift from 2nd to 1st in the middle of a tricky hill climb, then you're almost guaranteed to hit neutral.

[Awesome]

What have you been using for oil?

[TTD]

Just downshift from 2nd to 1st in the middle of a tricky hill climb, then you're almost guaranteed to hit neutral.

Amen to that!!!

[Pittenger5]

What have you been using for oil?

Only done one oil change. Only ridden the thing maybe 6 times. Synthetic 10w40 I think it was.

[Mr. Kurtz]

Let's trade problems. After changing my clutch, I find I often hit neutral if I don't give enough of a tap up on the shifter from 1-2.

On the plus side, it's super easy to slip into neutral at a stop.

[TTD]

Mike...what's your gearing? If I recall, I geared my KDX down and hardly ever used first.

[Mr. Kurtz]

Mike...what's your gearing? If I recall, I geared my KDX down and hardly ever used first.

It's stock I believe. It's only an issue when I go to accelerate fast from a stop, and it can be solved by slowing down and actually putting my foot under the shifter to lift up rather than sort of kicking the side of it up. I can't imagine it will be an issue anywhere I actually want to ride.

[TTD]

yeah... in the dirt you can likely start in 2nd gear most of the time.

[Pittenger5]

My bike likes to be in neutral to kick start though, just wont go over well if its in gear. So thats a big pain. Maybe one of these days I should tear the clutch apart and see whats going on in there.

[TTD]

My bike likes to be in neutral to kick start though, just wont go over well if its in gear. So thats a big pain. Maybe one of these days I should tear the clutch apart and see whats going on in there.

Good point... but all of the bikes I had that were hard to find neutral... found it no problem as soon as I shut off the bike.

[Rada]

Good point... but all of the bikes I had that were hard to find neutral... found it no problem as soon as I shut off the bike.

Yup. Clutch drag is the culprit.

[JettaJayGLS]

found it no problem as soon as I shut off the bike.

Always been the case for me on my hondas.

[breakdirt916]

fasteddie once told me that transmissions are designed to stay in gear, much better when the engine is running above idle

r u idling?

other than that...I have no idea...transmission servicing usually involves splitting the cases; and even then I'm not sure what you'd be looking for because the thing is going to look f'in perfect until you very carefully spec all the washers...so ya, go w' what everyone else said, and deal with it until you have to split the cases

[gregp]

As mentioned here, notches in your clutch basket can exacerbate this problem. If you have after market heavy duty clutch springs, they will also make this problem worse, as they can cause slight flexing of the pressure plate. Installing a brand new clutch cable can help some, as will carefully adjusting every bit of free play out of your lever. Experiment with some different oils, as most gearboxes respond differently to different oils and weights. You can also polish the shift "star". Mostly, though, this shifting difficulty is caused by clutch drag that can be induced by any of the factors mentioned here.

[typeone]

i'll have to peek at my WR clutch, have the same issue, difficult to click neutral when idling. the TC on the other hand, hits neutral if you look at it funny.

on oils, the TC hated full syn when i tried it, moaning clutch, never grabbed right. definitely prefers the semi-syn, perfect engagement once i switched back.

[gregp]

Some motors are also very sensitive to the position of the actuation arm (not CR's, though. IIRC their arms are inside of the magneto cover and not movable). On a KDX 200 or 220, for example, there are small shims available that install under the actuator that will result in a small change in position of the arm. The goal being to get the arm in the position that allows the most movement of the actuator with the given amount of lever throw.
There is more information on this in the KDXrider forum and in the factory service manual.

[TTD]

Installing a brand new clutch cable can help some, as will carefully adjusting every bit of free play out of your lever.

What's the logic behind having zero freeplay? Don't you run the risk of causing clutch slippage and wear as you're riding?

I just helped Mike change his clutch (previous owner had the clutch with zero freeplay).

We put the stock springs back in and I left the clutch with a little freeplay.

Other than going into Neutral easy, the bike worked perfect. (Prior to doing the clutch, the bike would lurch/stall when putting the bike in gear)

[Kurlon]

You want freeplay or you'll fry the clutch and sometimes the clutch push arm/etc.

BUT, as i've learned with my WR... you need to adjust the freeplay with the engine WARM.

[gregp]

Let me clarify - You certainly do not want "Zero" free play, but you want as little as possible to maximize the distance that the cable can be pulled. Personally, I also like my clutch to disengage (for normal shifting) with as little lever movement as possible. On my bikes, this is generally not a "set it, and forget it" adjustment. For optimal performance, it requires regular attention.
Another thing that has not been mentioned here - Different levers (and perches) can have a large impact on clutch operation. If the OP does not have an OEM lever/perch assembly, he may be pissing in the wind.

[Pittenger5]

Bone stock. It seemed a LOT worse the last time I took it out which is why I worry, but I hadnt been on the bike for a year till last weekend, so it might be more memory issues.

[gregp]

Odd. IMO, CR250 transmissions and clutches are among the best, in terms of functionality and reliability. Are you certain that the clutch parts (springs and plates) are stock as well? If so, I would be lubing up the lever pivot and cable, and checking the basket for grooving.