Need some help.

[csmutty]

Thank you all for the help, it is much appreciated. I ended up scoring a nice rear wheel from an 07 with rotor sprocket and bearings on ebay for cheap money. I didn't realize Yamaha dirtbikes were so interchangeable. I've been ordering parts left and right as i come across them cheap but what i really need is a set of nuts and bolts for the whole bike. Trying to scrounge around ebay for one oddball bolt is getting tiresome. Does anybody make bolt kits for an entire bike?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-WR426F-WR...394375&vxp=mtr

[tls25rs]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-WR426F-WR...394375&vxp=mtr

That's pretty sweet! I would snag that in a minute if I had a 426. A handful of bolts could wind up costing you that and it looks like there are a couple of axles in there as well.

Quick search on Google came up with this as well

http://www.boltmotorcyclehardware.co...bolt-kits.html

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/search?term=bolt+kit

[Mr. Gixxer]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-WR426F-WR...394375&vxp=mtr

Thanks for that link, it's the biggest/cleanest bolt selection i've seen.

[csmutty]

Thanks for that link, it's the biggest/cleanest bolt selection i've seen.

Did you buy it or did someone get it before you did?

What sucks about bolt kits is nobody includes any of the bigger stuff. I wish someone did but they would probably charge a mint for it. I bought a bolt kit for my CRF and I think it was almost $60 after a discount.

[Mr. Gixxer]

Did you buy it or did someone get it before you did?

What sucks about bolt kits is nobody includes any of the bigger stuff. I wish someone did but they would probably charge a mint for it. I bought a bolt kit for my CRF and I think it was almost $60 after a discount.

I got it as soon as i saw you post. I've been having a hard time finding some of the smaller bolts, all of which looked like they were in that listing, plus having extra axles is never a bad thing. I'm only 150lbs but i'm rough on my vehicles.

[Mr. Gixxer]

Alright guys i have more questions. I pretty much have the engine buttoned up and installed but there seems to be a clutch issue. There is a little lever on the transmission that the cable hooks on to, there is no resistance on that lever. What i mean is when i disconnect the cable i can easily swing the lever back and forth with one finger. Does this mean something trans. related is missing/broken/improperly installed? The trans. will shift through each gear nice and smooth and when in neutral it spins very easily but when i move the lever the clutch will NOT disengage.

[R7]

With the lever hooked up, how does the clutch feel?
There should be some movement in the clutch arm with no cable hooked to it. Should you be able to spin it all the way around..or even back and forth 50% or so, no.

Also, there's a lot of resistance in the clutch when the engine is cold, or hasn't run it a while. So even with the clutch pulled in and in gear, it will not feel like being in neutral. I know my KTM when it's been sitting for a while, if I put it in gear before it's warmed up, it'll jump forward and sometime stall

[tls25rs]

This should be a link to the fiche for that part of the bike. If what Mark described above isn't the issue than you will likely need to verify that all the parts in the link are in their rightful places.

(couldn't get the link in this post for some reason so it is in the next one, at least it was when I tried to add it. Forum giving me all sorts of issues with this link. If it isn't there, go to the ysppart.com link and then enter your bike and go to the clutch fiche)

That lever, through some type of linkage, actuates a rod that runs through the center of the clutch pack and then lifts the pressure plate off the stack of clutch disks thereby disengaging the clutch inner and outer baskets from each other and allowing the motor to run without driving the output shaft if there is a gear rather than Neutral selected.

Joel

[tls25rs]

- - - Updated - - -

http://www.ysppart.com/pages/OemParts#/Yamaha/YZ426_-_YZ426FM_-_2000/CLUTCH/YZ426FM_(2000_MOTORCYCLE)/CLUTCH_(YZ426FM_-_2000)

[Mr. Gixxer]

Alright, everything that was said makes sense to me. So with the clutch cable hooked up it feels terrible(needs a clutch cable bad) but when i unhook the clutch i can manually swing the lever back and forth about 180 degrees with one finger and no resistance. The bike isn't running yet because i'm still putting it together but i was always under the impression that this lever should be somewhat difficult to move, especially with no leverage.

[breakdirt916]

not sure...pics?

usually if it moves that easily, it's not connected right inside the crank case

does that lever connect to a push rod?

sometimes the whole things needs to be buttoned up completely to work...if I just had the clutch cover on halfway, it would move loosely. But once it was all connected and the clutch cable was hooked up, it worked right

[tls25rs]

but when i unhook the clutch i can manually swing the lever back and forth about 180 degrees with one finger and no resistance.

This is definitely not normal. Very little rotational slop before the cam plate, on the end of the rod that lever actuates, engages with the rod between it and the pressure plate is normal. 180 degrees of motion, not good.

It should be relatively straight forward to pull the clutch cover and see if moving the lever is actually pushing the pressure plate outward. You can either drain the engine oil or lean the bike over away from the clutch cover side of things and then remove the cover. If it doesn't appear to be functioning a couple of bolts and you can have the pressure plate and any parts that the central rod are supposed to actuate out of the way to see if the central rod even exists or if it possibly needs adjustment (some of them have adjustable ends to account for tolerances etc. during assembly. Not sure if this one does or not).

Do you have, or can you get online or your local dealer, the factory service manual? The manual will have an entire section on how to set up the clutch to function as it should. That link is a great visual reference but doesn't explain anything.

Joel

[R7]

I don't have a YZ or WR anymore, but my quad has the same clutch assembly as a YZ. I just unclipped the clutch cable from the arm on the engine and the arm sprung back about 90 degrees. I knew there would be some, but not quite that much. New clutch last year, it works perfectly. I would guess if you're in the 90 degree range (25% of the full rotation), you're fine.
Like Joel said, it's simple and easy to pull the clutch cover off and have a look. You may even be able to take the oil filler cap off and see the clutch plates as well

[Mr. Gixxer]

I think i found the clutch issue and it sure is a simple fix. The nut that holds it all together wasn't tight, hell it wasn't even bolted on. I'm assuming that would be the culprit.



I am also wondering if i should replace the pushrod that's in there while i'm at it. One end is mushroomed pretty good so i'm sure that's not going to help the situation. I'll post a picture of it in a little bit.

FYI it's a brand new clutch/basket/everything, Hooray!

[Kurlon]

Definately replace that push rod, and inspect PN 19 for wear as well. Slop in those two parts results in less available pressure plate throw length, that leads to drag, which starts eating everything up.

[Mr. Gixxer]

Here's the picture of the pushrod. It doesn't look terrible but if $20 will help my clutch last then it's a well spent $20


I put it all back together last night (the correct way) and now it seems to be working just fine.

[Kurlon]

That doesn't look horrible, but it's hard to tell without comparing it against a new one. If it were me, having already been down this road once with a Yam, I'd replace it for piece of mind.

[Kitt]

One question... If it's a 426, how will you know if it starts or not - even if you did everything right???


Just bustin the bike, had a couple of those, and a few dozen other yamahas. The 426 was the hardest starting yamaha ever made I think! Motors were sought after though. I have some parts laying around, and service manuals (that you must have at this point). Let m know if you need specific help with anything.

[Mr. Gixxer]

Alright guys now i'm really confused. I got the clutch all back together and everything appears to be working, pull in the clutch lever and the plates spread apart and "release." Now if i understand clutches correctly, which i should after almost 10 years as an auto mechanic, shouldn't i be able to turn the front sprocket when it's in gear so long as the clutch lever is pulled in? If i click it into first gear and pull in the clutch the output shaft that the front sprocket is on doesn't turn. What in the world is going on???

[Kurlon]

There will be too much oil/friction drag for that to work. You'll find it won't even want to be pushed when cold and in gear if you pull the clutch.

[breakdirt916]

ya...you might have to ride it to find out

I think that also depends on the bike

when I had a honda XR200, pulling in the clutch allowed you to push it around like it was in neutral

when I had an RM125, pulling in the clutch and putting it in gear generated nearly as much resistance as no clutch at all....those things just drag