good you got to test, bummer it's still there ... how did the bike feel with fatter mains? did you keep one of them in?
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good you got to test, bummer it's still there ... how did the bike feel with fatter mains? did you keep one of them in?
epic ride day!
beaumont after a rain is EPIC classic SoCal riding in the hills!
started out like this
https://i.imgur.com/1tNynOy.png?1
oh, let's just turn down here
https://i.imgur.com/hHeCXSF.png?1
ok
https://i.imgur.com/ni7pKGf.png?1
awesome :hellyeah:
https://i.imgur.com/jdGBa97.png?1
wheeeee!!
https://i.imgur.com/BKBwoKI.png?1
oh shizz
https://i.imgur.com/7i2XhC8.png?1
okay, screw you guys
https://i.imgur.com/Ui5amv6.png?1
gorgeous!
https://i.imgur.com/ZFqfxm4.png?1
omgoshhh
https://i.imgur.com/CHBmPvq.png?1
BRAAAAAAP
https://i.imgur.com/qCGMA51.png?1
daaaamn
https://i.imgur.com/b07vZQd.png?1
find the bike doing the hill climb!
https://i.imgur.com/P7beeCf.jpg?2
it was a lug in 1/2/3rd gear sort of day
first real "dirt bike" ride since the rebuild on actual trails...I stalled a lot
it was only until later in the day, on an uphill whoops section that it clicked: STAY ON THE PIPE....at a critical point, the front floats, and the back is smashing and the bike just flies. Can't be afraid to WOT that bitch and she likes it.
@typeone - on pavement, it felt about the same :spit: I went back to the "stock" 340 main since that's the jetting recommended by the manual for the temps I'm riding in (plus not much WOT sand).
damn that looks fun, nice ribbons, seems some good moisture in the soil as well?
regarding stall + stay on pipe comments, do you have a flywheel weight on that bike?
Wish we had trails like that closer to the Northeast. I'd take a road trip to go ride those now and then but Cali is a little far for a road trip.
yeah! great moisture, and tons of fun!
would recommend, but I'll be honest - the epic spots like that, are partially not legal, just tolerated...and slowly disappearing. Still plenty of legal OHV spots, but this specific location is where the Crusty Demons used to film. Bucket list spot...I'd also like to see Reche canyon. Best to go mid week, and go w' someone who knows the area to connect the single track and ridges riding.
just your typically goon riding. When in doubt gas it out.
https://youtu.be/NoLBa1PHqMY
no flywheel weight, but I don't imagine it would help as much as a right hand
and I refuse to add a FWW until I've sorted the timing and added the mods I've already purchased for it LOL
nooooo....don't tell me that!!
it may cost me more money :lol:
but yes, I'm very curious.
I always felt like it's the rider, not the bike. That real "dirt bike ride" showed me that I generally ride at 20-40% of what the bike can do; and only on that day (in a group) I was pushing at 80-90%...and guess what? the bike could do it! Granted it felt like my risk exposure goes up A LOT at 80-90%, but man does the bike feel like it's flying!
but the rest of the time at 20-40%, yes I'm wondering if a FWW will help me at the lower speed stuff. Stay running; don't stall, more tractable power on loose hill climbs.
meanwhile, 7:15ish sunsets = I could be at an OHV area by 6:30pm and ride until it was too dark
https://i.imgur.com/NQLv02F.jpg?1
then ride in the dark :lol:
Lighting review:
1.) BAJA DESIGNS + HELMET LAMP COMBO IS AWESOME
2.) the low beam/high beam baja designs relay makes a huge difference. The 4% is equivalent to what those cheap amazon lights put out...and keeps my battery from being drained at idle or hopefully not blinding oncoming drivers. The high beam/full intensity at 26W is remarkably good for an LED at throwing light far...I do, however, need to aim it down just a little bit more. It only has one adjustment and it's cranked all the way down; so I'm going to just drill the plastic bracket mount a little bit to slide the screw back.
3.) headlamp - I'm a little sketched out about having a wire dangling off the side of the helmet. I need to route the wire safely to the side and leave slack.
How come nobody just mounts the battery to the back of the helmet w' a gopro mount or something?
no obstruction. No wires to randomly pop off when you take off your helmet and/or backpack.
still haven't adjusted the timing :lol: I just wanna riiiiiiddddeeeee
STORAGE: my friend is right, for dual sport: the MOST you should need is a dual sport taill pack (bolted to a rack or rear fender). *just* the tools to get home = trail stand, axle tools, 8/10/12, bit driver, pliers, elec tape, spare plug, plug wrench, quick steel, swiss army knife, etc.. Get that weight off your back. I just can't figure out a clean way to carry a 21" front tube...but on the other hand; if I ran nitro mousse in a 2nd set of wheels I wouldn't need it. And make sure your bike runs 100% before you head to ANY big dual sport run. Water and snacks in the Kriega, spare goggles, with space to carry a rain shell if you get cold. But keep your setup modular: Giant loop mojavi bags are *just* for carrying an extra gallon of pre-mix for Death Valley.
Just a note: A 21" tube will fit both front and back tires well enough to get you home. No need to carry 2 sizes. I used to keep one in my fanny pack, or zip tie one to my forks or a frame tube. No matter where you keep it, you have to check it once in a while, as it will chafe enough to wear a hole. Since I started using Bridgestone UHD tubes 20 years ago or so, I have never gotten another flat, so I do not carry one anymore.
Well, it’s been a great run. I sold the YZ250!
April Fools!
:lol:
Not usually my kind of humor; but I actually did that on the FE, so this would have possibly been believable?
shoulda smelled that one a mile away :D but yes, i took bait, figured you replaced it with an XRE300 for stunt duty in LA traffic.
did it smell like Castor 927 :shredder:
pfft...lemme find an XRE300 and see what I can do
got a buddy leaving CA for work, so I joined him for his local spot ride as a farewell
https://i.imgur.com/quZWu1M.png?1
honestly, it reminded me of 90's Massachusetts - the undeveloped land next to the (school, shopping center, etc.) was a local trail riding spot...illegal, but tolerated
https://i.imgur.com/9ZKbXV8.png?1
trash here and there
https://i.imgur.com/8lo2Gym.png?1
https://i.imgur.com/xqnM6Eh.png?1
he told me local kids come out in groups of dirt bikes/pit bikes to ride...he's even seen SxS's out here
https://i.imgur.com/Iuktc8n.png?1
https://i.imgur.com/0sotWrO.png?1
AREA: It would be cool if I had something this 10 mins from home...while the whole space is only 5 miles long/10-15 mins from end-to-end, you could get enough practice to get comfortable on a bike and build your skills. Excellent proving grounds for people that live local. The IE (inland empire) part of SoCal is moto country...this is where all the "bro's" live, flat brimmed hats and Fox t-shirts. I walked into a Mexican restaurant to grab a burrito on my way out and the other 2 patrons had a Malcolm Smith Motorsports T-shirt on, and I knew they were trying to figure out who owned the plated 2-stroke outside. Cool place if you're into dirt bikes, all dirt bikes, culturally dirt bikes, and don't like the crowds or expensive-ass bougee coastal living. But it's *hot as F* to live out there...I guess they don't care, and it's cheaper to live out there anyways. No thanks...I'll visit 3-4 times/year to ride.
BIKE: it ripped! still haven't sorted the timing :lol: but the seat time felt great on this easier terrain. I was back in the grove wiggling the rear end WOT in 1st/2nd until it straightened out to get into 3rd. The lower weight also made it easier to brake if you overshot a turn. The 690 would lock up the front and send you into the bushes LOL. The yz can be slowed down easier at the limits and steered out of trouble. It was also easier to turn in tighter stuff; you could just adjust your weight over the tank, push down on the bars and get on the gas to get through a turn. Dump the clutch to lay power down in a turn and it grabs and slides you through. The 690 is more about slowing down, neutral throttle, and rolling through berms. Time the throttle correctly and the bike will wheelie in 3rd gear coming over the crest of a hill.
Maybe more like 1970's Massachusetts.....
^^ I was born too late to enjoy that :sad2:
Central MA had some low key neat spots in the 90's. I heard dirt bikes in the woods behind the middle school (now houses)...Northborough had the sand pit (now a fedex facility)...Westborough had a practice track behind a shopping center...Bellingham had a sand pit (private property/closed)...I heard there was riding near what's now the solomon pond mall...so it's all gone now, AFAIK. I heard there were trails off of Church street, but all I found (on a mountain bike) was a short section of mountain bike trails.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1.../jump5air1.jpg
It's funny talking to SoCal people who complain about riding areas closing down. SoCal still has dozens of options within a 2 hour drive, but they bitch and complain like it's the end of the world...blah blah "we the people need to unite"...blah blah..."I swear I'm gonna move out of this damn state and move to AZ." but they never move. Great place to ride and a lot of fun people to ride with. But terrible politics and ton of lousy/selfish/triggered people too...If you want to achieve true zen and enjoy it without going crazy, stay out of the exhausting politics and just focus on the riding.
meanwhile, 7:30pm sunsets mean wrench time after work
motion pro tool + impact driver got the flywheel nut off
https://i.imgur.com/0BTLvB3.jpg?1
interesting
the reddish coil on the upper right is my lighting coil. It's an entirely separate coil than the bike's ignition coil. I guess that's a good thing so if the aftermarket light piece fails, it doesn't kill the bike from running.
no signs of overheating on the coil :hellyeah:
I guess a low wattage coil isn't such a bad thing. Less is more.
I also rode the streets last night w' the baja designs light on low (4% power)...and it was just enough light to ride around town with *plenty* of juice left over for the LED brake/tail/turn signals at idle. Flip to high beam when I'm solo/off road for the full blast.
Very happy with this baja designs setup...wish I did it years ago!
so for the timing: the bike has a stationary stator plate. Loosen the two bolts (WHICH I AM SO AFRAID OF STRIPPING THE THREADS), twist the plate, and re-tighten the plate. Use a dial gauge to figure out where top dead center is.
I just looked at the wear marks on the stator plate and moved the plate in that direction (counter clockwise) :lol:
https://i.imgur.com/v6Mvkco.jpg?1
detonating still present...so either gotta move it more, or try the other direction.
super interested to see where you end up with timing edits ... from a quick search, it seems you have to use the dial gauge to do this accurately.
did i already ask if you tried a tank of 50/50 pump/race gas for the hell of it? i think the timing studies are smart, was just curious because i read often how crappy Cali fuel is.
so, uh, I think I "fixed" it :lol:
https://i.imgur.com/E4gSlxl.jpg?1
I moved the stator plate in the opposite direction, and detonation gone!
so now a couple things are obvious on pavement: the timing retard/woods port do make the top end of the power curve flatten out
time to test it in the dirt and see if I want to advance the timing just a wee bit more, or just leave it as-is
next stop: flywheel weight, then smart carb!
these edits are really to see how much easier I can setup the bike for "dirt bike" rides on trails:
-woods port
-13/49 gearing (stock was 15/48)
-flywheel weight
-smart carb
-trail valving in shocks/forks...set pre-load and clickers (maybe try the DeVol linkage)
-FMF Gnarly pipe (discontinued...would have to source used...I have an ebay auto-search to find one)
-Rox risers offset bar risers
I also was considering putting the 2 gallon tank back on, as dirt bike rides are typically just 2-3 hours or under 30 miles
watching youtube channels are expensive...
makes ya wanna throw money at setting up your bike :spit:
saw a guy w' a '97 YZ250 w' a Lectron + Gnarly, and he described it as smooth and more low end. Got me itchin.
so googling revealed:
-the FMF Fatty pipe is for MX/rev it out
-the FMF Gnarly pipe is better for trails/low end, and thicker metal
-the FMF Burly pipe is the same as the Gnarly, but FMF got in trouble and changed the name
-the FMF Gold series is just a shiny hassle free nickel plating
There's a rough used Burly for sale for $295 shipped....
and a better condition Gnarly for $230 shipped...it's been there for months.
I offered $100 and they countered with $220 shipped :lol:
nvm...will go back to just adding the mods I already have for now
also Matt's off-road recovery is a fantastic youtube channel
the Fatty and Gnarly might be the same shape but just different construction. not sure if FMF does that for all bikes, but you see the 'Gnarly is better for low end' comments all the time but when actually compared side-by-side, the shapes are the same.
outside of expansion chamber shapes, you can also mess with the length of your silencer for changes in power delivery. shorter will improve low end response ... i bet most of the 'smooth' the '97 YZ guy experienced was from the Lectron, they are known to mellow out the power band.
omg
@KURLON - DO WE NEED TO BUY THIS KIT!??!
https://i.imgur.com/pqiuVIw.jpg?1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23400522684...4a50%7Ciid%3A1
It's a used long rod kit
*background*: the hot setup in the 90's was a '94 cylinder + 89 rod (5mm longer rod) w' a spacer plate & longer linkage/cylinder studs. Spends more time in TDC and helps with power overall, maybe more bottom end depending on the porting and ignition timing
the spacer plate and longer linkage are unobtanium
but I literally *just* split the cases and rebuilt my motor. I don't need a bottom end anytime soon...and I don't an extra cylinder + power valves
maybe I could buy the whole thing and sell of the cylinder and power valves :lol:
wow, almost 2 weeks since I've ridden it!
we're now seeing adverse reactions on pediatric patients, the pfizer shot, once involving paramedics :frown: riding to get away helps clear the mind
https://i.imgur.com/SgxUtoy.jpg?1
buddy wanted to start riding dirt before getting a GS, so I took him to some flat roads to get some practice
and man...after a couple months on the 690, the YZ250 feels RATCHET
low rpm's feel underpowered/lazy, power delivery is so jerky, getting on the pipe hits weird, bike shakes a lot, rider compartment feels cramped, controls feel all crooked and in the wrong spot, brakes are not strong, frame feels like it's twisting....yikes! sketchy ass bike
it took a little bit of getting used to...but man do I need to sort this thing out. Rox risers w' new bars, thicker pegs, tall seat foam, 2 gallon tank, lectron or smartcarb, re-position all the controls, flywheel weight.
https://i.imgur.com/hVrpoZw.jpg?1
random crew of sumo's rolled up on us. Just some guys in their 20's out straight mobbin. The 701 dude works at Rottweiler.
YZ definitely started easier when fired up on back to back days. She likes to be ridden often.
Ironically even w' the retarded timing, I still think I have a little detonation.
If the cylinder wasn't sleeved I'd jump. As it is, bit pricy. The hard to get parts are the longer pull rod for the powervalve, and the spacer plate, but that spacer plate is an easy piece to get laser cut these days. The pull rod can be lengthened if you have a friend who is good with tig, the longer rod is just an order from ProX/etc. Tempting, might provide a bit more snap to my 292? Sadly budget is tied up at the moment, gotta see how the 500 does.
it's still for sale, and now there's a make offer option
and AMC went up to $58/share :spit:
any idea what kind of offer I could make? $250 and wait for a counter offer?
I wouldn't put this kit in; just keep it for the next time I do a rebuild
Asking $750 shipped, no way $250 will get it. If it's like most ebay sales with offer options, I'm betting whatever you offer he'll counter with $675 plus shipping.
https://i.imgur.com/GiM45F5.jpg
And it won’t start :lol:
Power felt a little down (bike felt 10-15% “lazier”) the last 3-4 rides or so...but felt consistent. No worry some trends...bike would still start, sometime 2-3 kicks, sometimes more.
Now compression is pretty low when kicking over.
It probably needs a top end; but why?
I have gone 2-3 years on a top end flogging on pavement.
Was it the 80:1 Saber? The detonation?
If my top end went out so soon, is my crank not far behind?
Should I bring it back to the engine builder who did it last and ask them for a tear down/inspection?
Tear down myself and inspect?
Buy and install the long rod? :lol: