Track riding improvement plans

[Petorius]

[mzdagrl]

That about sums it up. Once I figure that out, I'll have more to work on, I'm sure.

[GixxerJosh]

Thanks for all the suit offers. I am gonna be stuck at work Monday. Sucks but beats losing my job. Vendor flying in and O have to be there orbelse :-( Cant wait for Thompson next month. So want to try the new bike out

[Petorius]

Reflections:

I am slow where I am scared of losing traction, I am scared of losing traction where the suspension is doing a lot, the suspension is doing a lot over the transitions, the suspension is doing a lot over the transitions because I am putting weight on the bars and delaying getting on the throttle.

I cant seem to figure out the no-blipping thing either. I click the downshift, EASE the clutch out painfully slow, and as soon as it catches I get a huge rear-end wiggle. I almost went down doing this into 11. More practice needed I guess.

[Kurlon]

Can you wait to downshift a bit longer? The longer you wait the less squirm you'll get.

[TTD]

I cant seem to figure out the no-blipping thing either. I click the downshift, EASE the clutch out painfully slow, and as soon as it catches I get a huge rear-end wiggle. I almost went down doing this into 11. More practice needed I guess.

Make sure when you do the downshift you quickly let the clutch out to the friction zone...then ease out the rest. You might be letting too big of a drop in rpm's and then it has to really catch up with the wheel?

[Petorius]

Can you wait to downshift a bit longer? The longer you wait the less squirm you'll get.

I was trying to do that initially, but started clicking the shift earlier so that the rear would settle before turn-in. Makes sense to wait longer though.

Make sure when you do the downshift you quickly let the clutch out to the friction zone...then ease out the rest. You might be letting too big of a drop in rpm's and then it has to really catch up with the wheel?

That may be the case. There is a big range of motion before I hit the friction zone. I think I start releasing it slowly, panic when I see the end of my braking zone coming, and basically dump it through the friction zone.

[OreoGaborio]

Don't pull the lever all the way to the bar. Pull it into the friction zone... that should release enough tension on the transmission to make it change gears and because you're already in the friction zone it will immediately start slipping the clutch to smooth it out.

[Petorius]

Don't pull the lever all the way to the bar. Pull it into the friction zone... that should release enough tension on the transmission to make it change gears and because you're already in the friction zone it will immediately start slipping the clutch to smooth it out.

I need to get a street bike so I can practice this sort of thing!

[TTD]

If you only use two fingers on the clutch, then what Pete's describing happens almost automatically (because the clutch will hit the other two fingers when you pull it in)

[Chippertheripper]

I need to get a street bike so I can practice this sort of thing!

Put your lights back on.

[maxim_X]

Twist of the wrist teaches downshifting as late as possible without upsetting the chassis. Try it, you'll like it. Also, embrace the wiggle and you'll learn to love it.

[Petorius]

Put your lights back on.

They are in 20 pieces burried in the mud off turn 12 at NYST. I do still have the tail section. Hmmm

Also, embrace the wiggle and you'll learn to love it.

Not gonna lie, there is something oddly confidence inspiring about feeling the tire sliding all over the place while still being (mostly) in control.

[Chippertheripper]

You need a dirtbike.

[Rada]

Yell to yourself inside your helmet. Either "reference points!" or actually yell out the RP you need to be looking at, then the next, the next.

In Graham's voice. "Where's the friggen four cone"

[SVRACER01]

OK, that's a big list. You can't think about that every lap, or session, or day for that matter. Prioritize your list and simplify it into 3 things.

1.Entry
2. mid corner
3.exit

Work on one at a time

Work on entry speed first. Brake at a consistent mark that does NOT stress you out. To raise you entry speed, brake normally for the first half of the zone, then ease out of the brakes as if you are already trail braking. Arrive at tip in faster and with 10% braking power on. tip it in quickly releasing the brake simultaneously. Fully off the brakes as you hit max lean angle with relaxed arms. Do this exercise until you entry speed is consistently higher. Then you can move your brake marker forward step by step without freaking out.

i agree with this. with that said, and only since you mentioned it as something you wanted to work on, id really focus on body position first. with the extra cornerspeed that youll be attempting carry, poor body position can really make it not only scary but counter productive.

[SVRACER01]

I cant seem to figure out the no-blipping thing either. I click the downshift, EASE the clutch out painfully slow, and as soon as it catches I get a huge rear-end wiggle. I almost went down doing this into 11. More practice needed I guess.

you could turn the idle up a little. i think my SV idles at 3-3500 when hot

[Petorius]

you could turn the idle up a little. i think my SV idles at 3-3500 when hot

Interesting idea. What is it like rolling around the pits at slow speed? Just need to slip the clutch a bit?

[jerseygirl]

I have to agree on the wiggle. My SV is not nearly as set up as my racebike suspension wise and ask anyone Tony's staff that has followed me, my bike wallows and moves all the time. The wiggle can be fun!!

[Petorius]

I have to agree on the wiggle. My SV is not nearly as set up as my racebike suspension wise and ask anyone Tony's staff that has followed me, my bike wallows and moves all the time. The wiggle can be fun!!

Definitely less fun when I'm slightly leaned over into 1 or 11 at Loudon.

[number9]

Interesting idea. What is it like rolling around the pits at slow speed? Just need to slip the clutch a bit?

Pierfrancisco ("Frankie") Chili used to idle his GSX-R at about 6,000rpm back in the day. !!!

[Paul_E_D]

Turning up the idle speeds makes the bike behave a little like it has a slipper clutch. Definitely easier to downshift without blipping with the extra revs.

[nhbubba]

I hadn't considered dicking with the idle speed. I may try that. I do have problems transitioning from off to on throttle. Maybe that would help.

Leaning off (read: working on body position) makes the whole experience way mo' fun. I've been accused of leaning off too much. I think the term 'squidly' has been used. For a while I didn't care; the rush of hanging off was wroth it. But lately I've started to think about maybe trying to get some more corner speed. I've actually reeled my body position in more. Instead of chin over the outside of the grip, my chin is over the inside fork. Has given me better leverage for braking and-I think-kept me off the bars more, which means less incidental bar input. This means I'm going to need more lean angle for the same rate of turn. But the feedback I've received from the track-side photos is that I have lean angle to spare, lots of it actually. (Never had my knee down, ever.)

I don't buy the wiggly suspension thing. A wallowing bike is not my bag. Neither is a harsh one. But mid-corner wallow is not confidence inspiring. Especially at NHMS.

[jerseygirl]

I don't buy the wiggly suspension thing. A wallowing bike is not my bag. Neither is a harsh one. But mid-corner wallow is not confidence inspiring. Especially at NHMS.

I think you should buy it a bit. Every bike it going to "wiggle" at some point, whether your suspension is set up correctly or not. From bumps to what you are doing, expect it, anticipate and know what to do. Talk to any of the fast people, smooth is fast, but the bike will be out of sorts at times.

[nhbubba]

All I know is that the greatest return-in-confidence investments I've ever made to a motorcycle were all either tires or suspension. Well, that and track time.