Need some bike help... electrical related

[TTD]

So I "de-winterized" the bikes yesterday.

Street bike - Install battery, fired right up.

Renee's dirt bike - Install battery, fired right up.

My dirt bike - Install battery, fired right up... and then spent 2 hours working on my lighting.


When I used the bike at the end of last year, I went to put it away for the winter and when I did it's final startup, I saw smoke and a burning smell from the dual sport control module. It's the black box that controls the lighting, etc.

So I quickly shut the bike off, but didn't feel like dealing with it. Not surprisingly, the bike did not heal itself over the winter.


The module is made by E-Line, but I am unable to find the exact unit on the 'net. At this point, the bike works fine, but I have no lights. And I'm afraid to run it the way it is in case something somehow gets worse.

So... if you're still reading... here's my options/questions.

1 - Remove the black box and just re-hook up the stock headlight. (I have no idea how to do this, and my manual does not have the electrical diagram) It's the full manual, but I think it was removed.

2 - Replace the black box (can't locate the company so can't buy direct replacement)

3 - Replace the black box with another dual sport kit that is still around?

Basically, I suck at electric stuff. I start doing some research and people are talking about sine waves and flux capacitors and shit... I feel like MJ Fox talking to the crazy scientist in Back to the Future!

The bike is titled and street registered, so ideally I would like to get it all working again since the bike is worth more that way if I sell it.

Anyone have a WR250/450 from 2004 that has stock lighting?

Anyone really good at figuring out electrical wiring so I can bypass the kit until I can get it replaced?

[Wishbone]

you just need to know how to trouble shoot a circuit, or circuits

if you need help figuring it out i don't mind lending a hand

[ChR1s]

There should DEFINITELY be a wiring schematic in the manual. Look again. With your glasses on. You'll want to get a multimeter if you don't already have one.

[TTD]

My guess is the former owner removed the electric schematic when he installed the kit? Damn you tully!!


And yes, knowing how to trouble shoot circuits would be quite helpful... especially if I knew where to find them there "circuits" you speak of.

Seriously... I'm totally clueless when it comes to bike electronics. I admit that freely!

[Wishbone]

My guess is the former owner removed the electric schematic when he installed the kit? Damn you tully!!


And yes, knowing how to trouble shoot circuits would be quite helpful... especially if I knew where to find them there "circuits" you speak of.

Seriously... I'm totally clueless when it comes to bike electronics. I admit that freely!

so do you want a hand or not?

[TTD]

DOH!!!

Found the wiring diagram. In all my other manuals it has been a pull out type of thing. This is a 1/2 page picture.

You're forgiven, Tully.

Of course, now I have to backwards engineer what you did. If I recall, you modified the stock headlight to high/low beam and only used the black box and handlebar switch from E-Line?

[TTD]

so do you want a hand or not?

Maybe. I also found the manufacturer of the black box and have emailed them.

If replacing the box with an exact duplicate is an option, will probably just do that. Waiting to hear from them.

Thanks though.

[13]

Don't forget, if it failed, there's probably a reason. Just like blowing a fuse. If you replace it, it'll just blow again. Be sure to check and double check all the wiring before installing the new unit.

[TTD]

The back of the unit is supposed to be sealed, but I found a small nick. I suppose water could have gotten in there?

But... I will definitely make sure everything is good and clean when I put it back together.

Thanks,

[ChR1s]

More likely a short than a water problem. I'd check all of the wiring for any chafing. Of course, if there is/was a short and there wasn't proper overload protection in place, you could've let some smoke out.

[ssg]

Did you take anything off or put anything on just before you fired it up at the end of last year?

Sounds like something got disturbed (and possibly shorted). From what I have seen of 'black boxes' in the automotive arena - they are typically pretty well engineered and bombproof - unless you give them a voltage or a ground/short they don't like.

There could be an issue with water getting in there, but unless you verified that whatever was smoking and burning was definetely the blackbox, or every connection on it goes to ground/hot etc...I'd keep looking for a suspect.

[TTD]

Nope... didn't do anything different than always.

Wash bike. Dry bike. Start bike.

Hopefully ELINE will respond... nothing yet.

Getting the E-LINE directions will help me troubleshoot as well. Tully didn't install the kit per directions so I'll have to figure some stuff out.

I'd like to keep the bike as is, since it looks (and used to) work well.

But I'm in no hurry, so it's really not a big deal.

[ssg]

Nope... didn't do anything different than always.

Sorry, I should have phrased that differently - I meant like body panels, seat, etc...not mods. or anything like that ( I know that would be first checked thing ).
I was just thinking maybe if you had taken off the seat or some panels - putting em back on forced a ground or pinched wire and voila - short.

Hopefully eline responds..

[R7]

I got the E-line kit from Razee's in RI, 401-884-6632 , ask for Scott.
Last time I checked (I think it was for you as well) E-line was no longer making those kits..but I'm sure Scott can answer you beter.

All I did to use the stock headlight was change the plug on the end of the wire, the e-line kit already had the high and low beem option in it. I beleive I also did the same for the front turn signals?

I also remember that kit being a direct plug in to the stock harness, none of the stock harness had to be cut. The power wire that went to the headlight switch is what I thought powered the system?

I'm glad you finaly put your glasses on and stopped accusing me of ripping a page out of that manual..I was ready to reply to that before reading on

[TTD]

I'm glad you finaly put your glasses on and stopped accusing me of ripping a page out of that manual..I was ready to reply to that before reading on

LOL!

I didn't think you ripped out a page. Just thought it was a large, insert like I've seen in other manuals and maybe was laying around your garage.

Anyway... now that I have you. There are a few plugs up front that are simply taped off. Any idea what those are for?

And... any chance the manual/instructions for the kit are laying around somewhere?

I will also contact the guy you mentioned above, but figured I'd ask. Again, no hurry... won't be riding for a while.

And SSG... nope again... didn't do anything like panels or seat removal.

[ChR1s]

If the "black box" is a plug-n-play deal, just isolate it from the bike's system and ensure the bike's got good power out. With the lights disconnected, eliminate each by checking their connectors for shorts. Also, be sure to check out the multi-switch on the bar for problems. If the wiring is okay, my guess is the multi-switch is the culprit.

electrosport.com
bajadesigns.com
trickdualsport.com

[TTD]

Wouldn't the fact that the bike fires right up mean the power out is good?

With my "skill", when I'm done troubleshooting the lights will work but the bike won't start.

If the "black box" is a plug-n-play deal, just isolate it from the bike's system and ensure the bike's got good power out. With the lights disconnected, eliminate each by checking their connectors for shorts. Also, be sure to check out the multi-switch on the bar for problems. If the wiring is okay, my guess is the multi-switch is the culprit.

electrosport.com
bajadesigns.com
trickdualsport.com

[ChR1s]

No, the bike running does not guarantee the power for the lights is OK. The WR has one circuit for the ignition, and another one for the lights. You can put a voltmeter across the battery leads to ensure the bike's putting DC power to the battery by checking for an increase in voltage when the bike is running/revved. I would just disconnect the box/lights and at least make sure the DC power is good before moving on. The box is just a few simple parts, like diodes, relay, super cap, etc. It's likely something outside the box caused the overcurrrent condition, which caused the meltdown.

Cool thing to note: new MX bikes in development now are running EFI w/o a battery! Since e-starters are so efficient now, they'll likely have a minimal battery for starting anyway though.

[R7]

I "think" there were 2 stubbed off wires there if you wanted to add a brakelight switch to the front master?

I can look and see if I have the papers around somewhere but I doubt I do. Usually everything I have goes with the bike when I get rid of it so if you don't have them, I probably canned them prior to selling the bike.

Thinking about it some, I don't even know why there is a black box needed for something as simple as lights and signals? I think that kit was more complex than it needed to be (i certainly paid for that) and that could be the reason they no longer make them. I made the hole kit for my KTM for about $200..and $100 of that was just for the fancy KTM turn signals that are indistructable.
I would make up a simple harness if the part isn't available or if it was priced high

LOL!
Anyway... now that I have you. There are a few plugs up front that are simply taped off. Any idea what those are for?

And... any chance the manual/instructions for the kit are laying around somewhere?

I will also contact the guy you mentioned above, but figured I'd ask. Again, no hurry... won't be riding for a while.

[TTD]

Thanks for the info.

I bought a pretty inexpensive kit for Renee's bike. If I can get that hooked up, then maybe I'll but their handlebar switch (since I have all the lights/blinkers, etc already.)