Brush/hand guards - recommendations?

[aldend123]

I put a pair of Moose guards on and then slammed one side in to a tree 20 minutes later. They've taken plenty of abuse since. I didn't think you could break them without like an end-over-end kinda crash. The bolts had an awkward feel when threading in, almost like they weren't drilled properly. The fasteners have a cheap feel to them. But they get the job done.

I have Cycras too, and while they seem like a higher quality set up, I'm not sure I'd pay extra for them unless there was some special fitting reason. Edit: Actually, apparently the base model Cycras are close in price. I'm not sure why, but I thought they were in the $80 range. I'd probably go with Cycras then.

[nhbubba]

Cycras are about $100 by the time you get the full kit as the base kit does not come with the inboard mounts. They sell a "racer pack" which is the full deal for $120. That pricing doesn't make any sense to me as I think it costs less if you just build the kit yourself (~$100).

The Tusks are the cheapest from what I can tell @ about $60 for guards and plastics.

[Kurlon]

I've got a set of Cycras on the motard, and a set destined for my KTM. I'll let you know how they work when I mount them.

[typeone]

@bubba, have you tried tightening the bar end mount slightly, use a rubber mallet to knock it in securely THEN tighten the interior mount? if you have the end popping out after a drop it makes me wonder if youre tighten the opposite way (interior first). normally that interior mount will hold everything pretty securely inboard. i use loctite on the interior bolts as well.

also, if they are infact EE clones, if you need to swing them down lower to cover levers, sometimes you can install the interior mount upside down which could give you a little more downward range. i have mine mounted the regular way ("hook" below lines) and still can swing down but depends how far down you like to run your levers and where the lines sit. (my RR has full street controls and hydro line)

[nhbubba]

Problem 1 is likely that I've dropped the bike so hard and so many times on those guards that they are no longer anything even close to straight. I can't cinch everything down without it trying to pull out of the bar end. I'm in the market for new because I can't seem to straighten them.

I think problem 2 is that the bar end anchors are just cheesy. The Tusk ones that mushroom in 4 directions are much better, IMO.

[typeone]

got it, makes sense.

[carsick]

Cycra sell a "racer pack" which is the full deal for $120. That pricing doesn't make any sense to me as I think it costs less if you just build the kit yourself (~$100).

The parts list for the racer pack includes the bars.

[nhbubba]

This is my beef. Guards are rotated as far down as I can get them. Any more and the mount is going to interfere with the top of the fork cap. And the controls aren't even as far down as I think I'd really like.
Chipper tells me its normal. "Guards are for your hands, not the controls." Sayz to stop bitching and ride. I think I'm going to do that.

[nhbubba]

The parts list for the racer pack includes the bars.

Pack includes: CRM probend bars..

Right you are. Explains much, it does.

[typeone]

^ that's how i run my guards, a hair down from level with the ground. i agree with Chip, they are there to protect your hands so having them hit 'brush' straight on is the purpose. that way they don't twist down when you smack a tree. i've never busted a lever with the guards at that position.

i'd invest in folding levers before new guards if that's your worry. then add the threaded inserts for the ends. if the guard is bent, go house and hammer it back into shape. they're never perfect even when new.

EDIT: looked at the pic again, holy shit your forks ride high in the triples... is that normal?

[Chippertheripper]

Yeah, most ktm dudes run them at the 2nd or third line. They're still plenty stable, even like that.

[aldend123]

This is my beef. Guards are rotated as far down as I can get them.

I think mine are like that, though your levers look a little lower than I remember mine being relative to the guard. Either way, that looks like it'll still mostly provide lever protection. The lever is still unlikely to dig in to anything, or make hard direct contact.

[typeone]

Yeah, most ktm dudes run them at the 2nd or third line. They're still plenty stable, even like that.

my bad, looked a third time i thought the black headlight strap was the top triple. please ignore.. .

[MattR302]

Dirt Bike Acerbis Rally Pro X-Strong Handguards | MotoSport

I've got a set of these on my DR350, bought them used on eBay. They had a good meeting with the pavement in Thompson Turn 4 and only got some pretty good rash.

[number9]

I've got some EE guards and have smashed them into more shit than I care to remember. Nary a scratch on 'em..

[nhbubba]

Bought a brand new, full Cycra kit. Why? Made in US. Promise of better bar coverage. And because I hate money.

Little let down with the fit. Install required more, uh, persuasion than I had hoped for and I already stripped out the head of one of the bar end anchors.
But the lever coverage is dreamy. What I was looking for.
And the orange anodized bar clamps are trick.



Compare with what I had.