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Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

  1. #1
    Lifer Ductard's Avatar
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    Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Is there any easy way to see what you need do a better job sanding BEFORE painting / wrapping the bodywork?

    Mine came out OK - meaning they pass the 100ft or 100mph rule, but there are definitely some random kernels of resin, etc. that I didn't see until the wrap went over them.

    As it was, I would sand, think I was done, feel the bodywork for smoothness, wipe/wash off the dust, then find more spots to sand.

    Should I sand/prime/ then sand again?

    I saw some filler/primer at the store, I'm guessing that would help too....

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    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Bondo

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  3. #3
    Lifer Ductard's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Petorius View Post
    Bondo
    Only on my 'busa.

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    Member martia's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Spray with a scratch coat and any low spot fill with glaze And sand high spot.

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    Senior Member Viper897's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Whats the progression your using on sand paper? Also bondo or any other crack filler needs to be sanded fairly aggresivly from my experiance. I did a fair bit of body work last year to my SV, 2nd time was extensive fiberglass repair.

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  6. #6
    Lifer
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Thin primer coat should show you the imperfections, where you need another round of filler and/or sanding.

    But honestly, it's race body work. At some point the give-a-fuck-o-meter hits zero.

    I'm curious what a vinyl wrap would look like over somewhat imperfect bodywork.

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  7. #7
    Lifer Imbeek's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    What is the consensus on types of rattle can paints and clears to use, to avoid unwanted reactions (cracking) when successive coats are added?

    I'm not concerned at ALL with a fancy looking finish. Just need to fiberglass all the misdrilled holes made by previous owners of the bike and figure I may as well change the color of my race bodywork while I am at it.

    Also, for patching all those holes, seems like the smart way would be to add the fiberglass cloth to the inside of the bodywork and fill the voids after it cures from the outside with resin, right?

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  8. #8
    Lifer
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    I used tractor paint from tractor supply store. It works, so far.
    Yes on the patch from the inside. Once the resin starts to harden, try to smooth and form it on the outside with your (gloved) hand. As it thickens it becomes a great filler.

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  9. #9
    Lifer Imbeek's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    I will probably just mix the resin (for when I lay the cloth) so hot that is fully cured in 5-10 minutes and then I can fill the holes from the outside with another batch of resin. Anytime I've ever tried to form resin (with surfboards) while it is curing has been a sticky spider web disaster.

    What mistake are people making with clear coats that they have to sand it off and start over? Is it mixing brands, or types, or not letting coats dry fully, or something else? Seems like I've read enough horror stories that it is kind of common...

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    ain't nuttin wrong w/that scubasteveRR's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Quote Originally Posted by martia View Post
    Spray with a scratch coat and any low spot fill with glaze And sand high spot.
    ^^ what this guy said... you need to use glaze not more bondo to fill in the small imperfections.

    glaze is like spackle for this type of work body.

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  11. #11
    go faster cdovego's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    I'm curious what a vinyl wrap would look like over somewhat imperfect bodywork.
    Look at my cbr next weekend.

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  12. #12
    Backwoods lobster boy number9's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Ductard View Post
    Is there any easy way to see what you need do a better job sanding BEFORE painting / wrapping the bodywork?

    Mine came out OK - meaning they pass the 100ft or 100mph rule, but there are definitely some random kernels of resin, etc. that I didn't see until the wrap went over them.

    As it was, I would sand, think I was done, feel the bodywork for smoothness, wipe/wash off the dust, then find more spots to sand.

    Should I sand/prime/ then sand again?

    I saw some filler/primer at the store, I'm guessing that would help too....
    You can get guide coat paint and use that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2e3rACDImU

    Or you can get guide coat powder and use that instead: 3M Dry Guide Coat Applicator Kits 05861 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

    Hit up YouTube and search for "Kevin Tetz" and watch his videos. It's focused on cars, not bikes, but it's about the right way to do DIY work.

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  13. #13
    Posting Freak Gecko's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteveRR View Post
    ^^ what this guy said... you need to use glaze not more bondo to fill in the small imperfections.

    glaze is like spackle for this type of work body.
    ^^ What this guy said ... saying what the other guy said.

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  14. #14
    Lifer Stromper's Avatar
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    Re: Working with Fiberglass / bodywork - Question

    You need to block sand to knock down highs and feather stuff

    Hand or soft sanding won't blend them just go over

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