MFChop #396 2005 ZX6-R Race Bike Build Thread
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Just realized I never started / posted one on here... so better late than never. Might read a bit weird because it pieced together from other thread post but Ill keep it going from here on out
Armour Bodies Race fairings
Bestem Carbon Fiber Fender
K-Tech 25SSK Cartridges
K-Tech 35DDS Pro Rear
ZX-6RR Rear Linkage
BMC Filter
Hamaguchi Ti Exhaust
Cometic .45mm Head Gasket
Orient Express Manual Cam Chain Tensioner
DynoJet Power Commander 3USB
DynoJet Ignition Module
DynoJet Quick Shifter
STM Slipper Clutch
Factory Pro Shift Star
Shorai Battery
Ivans Servo Eliminator
Ivans Pair Block off plates
Samco Coolant Hoses
AFAM -1 +2 Sprockets
Brembo RCS19 M/C
Nissin Calipers
Spiegler Lines Front and Rear
CL C60 Pads Front RX3 Rear
D.I.D 520 EVR3 chain
1/4 Turn Throttle
Woodcraft Rear sets
Woodcraft Frame sliders
Woodcraft Stator Cover
Woodcraft Crank Case Cover
Woodcraft Clip ons
Woodcraft Toe Guard
Woodcraft Ignition Key Switch Eliminator
434 Racing Levers
434 Racing Ti Race Bolts
Scotts Ohlins Steering damper
NGK CR9E Plugs
Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa 120/170 SC2 f - 180/60 SC1 r
I ll add some more pics shortly
Special thank you to my 2015 Sponsors for all their help this season!!
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At Dyno Solutions of Brookfield CT
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KTech Suspension curtesy of Advanced Traction
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Finally got some free time back in CT this weekend to install my Factory Pro Shift Stareven took some pics....
Install was pretty straight forward, although I had to re do it all because the star wasn't fully indexed. The offset nipple on the shaft was a PITA to align with the stiffer detent spring installed
Stock on left
FAP FAP FAP
Shifts are definitely firmer and more positively engaged, defiantly worth it
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During second practice; entering T3 I took a downshift and heard some chatter from the transmission as the gear wouldn't engage. I tried to up shift still nothing, so a bailed into the T3-T10 split ending my practice. I had had this issue once last season enter in the bowl, thought it was user error. It occurred once round 1 then again round 3 and now, always on downshifts. I had installed a shift star prior to this round hoping it would rectify the issue, but apparently not......................
So I rip into it; as he stood by talking with some other riders while. Within an hour of work I was able to strip it down and pull the shift forks out to find this...
Left to right 5/6 - 3/1 - 2/4
You can clearly see each one of the ears are worn especially on the 1/2nd's each one's thickness was only ~.05 above factory tolerable specs to be replaced. Also you can tell from the radius shaped wear at the bottom of the 3/1 and slightly on the 2/4 that they are bent as well. The shift drum has no signs of wear and is well within spec. I still need to verify that the gear groves are within spec and the dogs /slots appear okay later today, knock on wood they are. Hopefully it’s just the shift forks themselves, which are already on order ($160).
Well add one more thing to the list, shift drum assembly
Yesterday evening after work I put the bike back on its side in an attempt to inspect the Dogs / slots. While doing to I noticed some lateral movement from the 3rd and 4th. I decide enough was enough, packed up my trailer and went back to CT for the night (no garage here
1.5hr after I get home...
And the cases are split!
Cardboard is our friend
Pics of the gears / slots. You can see the wear, and the slight rounding on the edged of the dogs
4th
3rd
1st has very light wear and second is just like 3rd and 4th
Got the new gears / dogs in.... Good vs Bad
Right now Im in the hole ~$600. Hopefully when I get home Friday night I can put the bottom end back together and get the valve lashing done in the AM so I'll have time to swap out shims with a dealer. Then Sunday have it back in and running, fingers crossed.
Im still in the hunt for a thinner head gasket, there used to be OEM KIT ones however with a 10yr old bike those parts are now basicly non existant. Cometic only has a .45 which is -.40. I think that might be way to thin i.e. valve clearance issues and to high of a compression. So I might be beat with doing that
Edit: with little time left and coming up short on my searches, I ordered a Comitec .45 gasket
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So last night I got in to Wolcott and spliced in the newer MOSFET 07-08 and I runs extremely cooler. Wish I had a temp gun to see but the OE one ran wicked hot after 2 min of idle, hot enough where you would tap it and say okay I wont touch that again. The new one runs extremely cool, after a 45 min session on the dyno it was luke warm.
So John put her up on the dyno did a couple pulls today.
Heres the history so far......
Heres from 3-4 yrs ago when I went from some pre-made map to a custom tune by the dyno guru...
From 110hp to 115hp with a very nice smoothening of the power curve....
A year later I went in for a scheduled Drs check up... also at this point an Ignition model was installed however left at 0
She put down 109hp after some re tuning of the map it was up to 111hp. Now mind you this is now on a larger / heavier 180/60 race tire, which caused the loss of power...
Now almost exactly a year later back for a visit again. The replacing of the rectifier removed the entire bucking issue I had during the last round of racing so that was a relief to see. Since its last visit I re built the transmission and added a thinner head gasket (-.40mm). I presumed the A/F wouldn't be affected much but still good to make sure its in peak condition.
So heres is where we are at today 113.21hp!!
Just rolling on to the dyno with zero timing it made 108hp after some tooling of the A/F and adding in 4° of timing it put down 113hp, so ~1.55 gain. I don't have a comparing to the 108hp run but there was a nice mid range gain of +2-4hp in the 4-8k range too, although Im not there too often during races.
Given its a 10yr old bike I'm still plenty please with the power it putting down and as you can see the power curve is perfect.
During last round I ran a compression test and all the cylinders were fine but on the lower end of the tolerable allowance (165psi, min 155psi). Im sure I'm loosing some power there, but hey I have almost 30k on the odometer. Over the winter Im most likely to re-hone the cylinder jugs and new piston rings possibly new pistons too, cost prohibiting
But I cant say enough about John and how well he does his job and the effort he puts in to it.
If you're in the NE area I highly recommend him, his link is in my signature below
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