Opinions on V-Stroms

[breakdirt916]

Underpowered!

[csmutty]

My mild adventure touring has inspired my buddy to get his first bike (he has been riding dirt bikes for a few years). To make a long story short, I think a V-Strom 650 would be ideal for his wants: spend <$5.5k, something newer, something he can keep for a while, and do mild adventure touring). He doesn't want an "old" bike so I think a 2nd Gen is the oldest he would consider. I've never ridden one or even considered one. Anything to watch or look out for? Good idea for a first bike? He turned down my idea of getting the Versys-X 300.

Saw this one for sale at the local dealer. It's an Instagram link. Instagram

[MattR302]

Saw this one for sale at the local dealer. It's an Instagram link. Instagram

How much to ship it 3000 miles to his buddy in California?

[nhbubba]

I think the 'strom is a fine choice for a 1st, 2nd, 23rd, whatever bike. The only problem is the seat height and fairly top-heavyness. A taller/larger person would probably mitigate that. Otherwise I predict some tip overs. I have a 30" inseam and I've dropped mine more times than I could ever count.

There's no such thing as an "old" V-Strom. They are all modern, mostly aluminum, EFI bikes. Most have ABS.
With that budget I'd definitely go 2nd gen just for the looks.

Mine has 55k on the clock and I wouldn't go back in time and trade it for anything.

Not sure how much of this translates to the 2nd gen. But my summary for the 1st is to hold back about $1200 for suspension upgrades (aftermarket shock; emulators, springs and oil for forks), a few hundred for a new seat. I'd also consider throwing out the factory mirrors and fitting some Aprilia mirrors mandatory. Maybe another $100 for quality brake pads. Then budget for whatever you want for bags. 'Stroms take to both hard and soft luggage in just about any config you want. If you want to attach it to a 'strom, someone, somewhere makes a kit to do it.

I rented a Tiger 800 and rode up and down the Sierras from San Diego to Yosemite and back via Death Valley a few years ago. Saw 'stroms everywhere from 'Diego traffic to the parks and everywhere in between. Seems like a fine California bike to me.

[Stromper]

Dont ignore the 1000
Enough power for power fun
A little more top heavy and as such a little less dirt. Mine has been in and out of some difficult stuff

If he is a big guy the 1000 will be a keeper

[OneCheekRider]

I think the 'strom is a fine choice for a 1st, 2nd, 23rd, whatever bike. The only problem is the seat height and fairly top-heavyness. A taller/larger person would probably mitigate that. Otherwise I predict some tip overs. I have a 30" inseam and I've dropped mine more times than I could ever count.

There's no such thing as an "old" V-Strom. They are all modern, mostly aluminum, EFI bikes. Most have ABS.
With that budget I'd definitely go 2nd gen just for the looks.

Mine has 55k on the clock and I wouldn't go back in time and trade it for anything.

Not sure how much of this translates to the 2nd gen. But my summary for the 1st is to hold back about $1200 for suspension upgrades (aftermarket shock; emulators, springs and oil for forks), a few hundred for a new seat. I'd also consider throwing out the factory mirrors and fitting some Aprilia mirrors mandatory. Maybe another $100 for quality brake pads. Then budget for whatever you want for bags. 'Stroms take to both hard and soft luggage in just about any config you want. If you want to attach it to a 'strom, someone, somewhere makes a kit to do it.

I rented a Tiger 800 and rode up and down the Sierras from San Diego to Yosemite and back via Death Valley a few years ago. Saw 'stroms everywhere from 'Diego traffic to the parks and everywhere in between. Seems like a fine California bike to me.

You rock, thanks. My buddy is 6'3" or 6'4" so I think he'll be fine. Plus he has a newer KTM dirty bike. I agree, the looks are better on the 2nd gen and if it were me, I'd pony up just for the nicer dash on the 2nd gen. He works a lot and doesn't want a project, which is why he wants something as new as possible. I found some 2nd gens with accessories (engine bars, panniers, topcase) with only 15k miles or less for around $4500 but if I show him a 2016 with 800 miles and 7 months left on warranty and he goes crazy for it, despite an asking price of $6500. He doesn't think he'll use the panniers/topcase and I'm trying to tell him there's a reason my topcase doesn't leave my bike. I also said he'll definitely want some sort of tip over protection.

Isn't the valve interval only like 15k miles or so? He's worried about that too, with buying a used bike close to that mileage. Personally, that doesn't bother me and gives some negotiating leverage but he wants something he can ride for a few years without having to do anything but oil and tires.

[nhbubba]

I think the official valve check interval is more like 7500 or so. But I believe most 'strom owners (like the SV650) report having valves in spec 9/10 checks. I had some exhaust valves start to tighten up around 35-40k. I can't even remember when I did that. IIRC it was 2 shims and done. Also the newer DL engine (which is the 2nd gen SV engine) is SO MUCH EASIER to do valves on simply because of the @#$% chain tensioner. I did my 1st gen SV race bike at the same time and struggled for HOURS with the adjusters on that thing. The DL adjusters popped back in and were good to go.

But yeah. These are fairly low maintenance machines. Lots and lots and lots of anecdotal evidence out there on the 'net of these things going to the 100k mark easy with basic routine maintenance.

Parts are easy. Tons of aftermarket support. I'm not aware of any glaring "issues" on either 1st or 2nd gen DL650s.

The early 1k's had some issues with the fueling. The 650s all seem to be fine here.
I do think my brakes really suck. That seems to be an issue with my example, not common. Someday I'll figure it out.. or swap the entire setup for a non-ABS big-brake setup or something.

I bought mine barely used. Partly 'cause I wanted ABS and that was hard to find in '11. I had the balance of a warranty .. and never used it.

I think you're right. Engine bars and panniers are worth more than 7 months of warranty. 15k is nothing. Buy, ride the piss out if it. Occasionally give it oil and service the air cleaner.

[RandyO]

I think the official valve check interval is more like 7500 or so. But I believe most 'strom owners (like the SV650) report having valves in spec 9/10 checks. I had some exhaust valves start to tighten up around 35-40k. .

valve lash inspection interval for the DL/SV is 14.5k/15k depending on the year.

I have heard of bikes that needed adjustment at the first interval, and I have heard of em going 90k before needing any adjustment. Depends how close to minimum tolerance they were set at the factory. If when you adjust, you adjust even those that are within spec to the maximum end of spec, you may go 150k before needing another adjustment, if ever

[nhbubba]

Randy is right. 2x what I remembered. My bad.

[Stromper]

Most ,me, do the valve adjustment a little early then just forget about it for many years

Bad brakes bleed including the banjos, pump through untill clear comes out the caliper bleeders and
use organic solvent to wash the spooge of your rotors, on ride down fresh chip seal and the are covered with grease

[nhbubba]

Bleed the brakes. Geez. Never thought of trying that 5 or 6 hundred times now...

[TheIglu]

I thought your levers were part of the issue?

[nhbubba]

Part, not all.
I forget this if I only ride it for a while. Then get a sharp reminder when I go back to something like the SV (non-ABS, braided lines, otherwise stock).

[Chippertheripper]

wait...did anybody see the bit where Colin said he wouldn't trade it for anything?!
I feel like I might own one of these at some point in my life, just for posterity.
I don't expect to love it, but I really would love to be surprised.

[breakdirt916]

Braking does kinda suck...I just figured it was the weight

Hmm...maybe I will add brake mods to the list

[TheIglu]

My brakes, until recently, have been absolutely flawless. They now need some love.

[Stromper]

I had a Yamaha where the junction was on the fender

It resisted ALL bleeding attempts until I rigged up a pressure bleeder, flowing like a quart through

That restored the mechanical feel

[nhbubba]

My brakes, until recently, have been absolutely flawless. They now need some love.

Yours is also a non-ABS model. Way simpler.

I've said this before, but.. My complaints are almost all brake feel. There is much too much travel in the brake lever for my tastes. My problem varies in scale, further complicated by the fact that everything is relative. One day I find the feel acceptable and the next not. As I say, riding another machine with better brakes usually makes me think the feel is awful. Riding just the 'strom for a week or so and it's fine again.

As much as I'm giving Rich shit, it is almost definitely air in the system somewhere. But I cannot for the life of me pinpoint or eliminate it. I have tried all kinds of crazy techniques to bleed it; gravity bleed, standard pressure bleed, reverse bleed (with a syringe), using speed bleeders, cracking banjoes (there are a bunch of banjo bolts on this system), etc. I've tried a mityvac, speed bleeders and a syringe. I've rebuilt the master and the calipers.

I should pull the ABS module and .. I don't know.. do something to it.

Compared to similar era or new V-Stroms on showroom floors my lever feel is.. worse, but I'm not even sure by how much.

Yeah, I just don't know.

Bottom line is I would not use my braking issue as a reason to pass on or not recommend the model.

[nhbubba]

wait...did anybody see the bit where Colin said he wouldn't trade it for anything?!

I said I would not go back and trade it. Meaning I'd still tell the 2011 me to buy the thing. If mine were to vanish from my possession tomorrow I would not cry; I've gotten my moneys worth out of it and it owes me nothing.

Would I replace it with the same machine if it were to vanish today? Hell no! I have a much bigger budget today then and different needs/wants.
Although I'd strongly consider a lightly used 2nd gen DL650. Maybe even a brand new, severely discounted one.
I'd also consider just not replacing it at all just the same.
I have others. Life is pretty damned good.

I feel like I might own one of these at some point in my life, just for posterity.
I don't expect to love it, but I really would love to be surprised.

It's just a fucking motorcycle.
But then, it's just a fucking motorcycle.

[TheIglu]

Decided to replace the PR3 Trail on the back of my Wee with a Shinko 705 Radial. We'll see how things go.

Sorry, but a $230 tire is like 15% of what this bike is worth. As much as I love the Michelins, the price is just way too high for a cheap commuter.

[gregp]

I put a set of Avon Storm 3D XM's on my '12 DL-650 in 2017. They really changed the way the bike felt - very smooth and quick handling.
As far as DL 650's not having any "glaring issues" - well, the headlight wiring is one. Mine burned a set of low beam connector pins at 7k miles (should have purchased the Eastern Beaver harness immediately). The connector block is located just above the radiator, on the left side.
There was also a recall for the stator.

[TheIglu]

I've been lucky so far with mine (knock on wood). Still running the same battery as when I bought it. No stator issues. No wiring issues.

I'll do my rear braided brake line when I do the rear tire. Also will replace the rear wheel bearings while I'm in there.

[MattR302]

The Shinko 705’s worked well on my DR350, I did a non-sportbike track day on them.
But that was a bike that weighs almost 200 lbs less than a Weestrom and tops out around 75mph

[TheIglu]

I ran 705's on my KiLaR for years. Loved them, but can't recall if they were the radials or not. Sure didn't get much life out of the rears. Hoping it will hold up a bit better on the Wee.

[breakdirt916]

I liked the 705, enjoy!