0
![Not allowed!](http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/images/buttons/down_dis.png)
![Not allowed!](http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/images/buttons/up_dis.png)
The repair shop in my town is less than a quarter mile from my house. If the labor rates were lower, I doubt either of us would do any work on either of our cars. We used to live next door to a Subaru mechanic (Clayton actually went there this winter). His rates were low enough that Rob had him do a lot for us, mostly to save time.
Executive Distributor - ItWorks! Global
All-Natural Health, Wellness and Beauty www.kchristian.myitworks.com Supplements, Skin Care, Energy Drinks, and MORE!
If you run into a wall with a helmet on, you still ran into a wall.
And some of us work on our own bikes that are DDS's. The key, Randy, is to 1, enjoy working on them, and 2, have 3 spare bikes ready to ride if you break the first
- - - Updated - - -
Yeah, still haven't heard from him. And the Subaru is still using coolant.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
I do all my service ,except for tires. I drop the rims and get the new tires.
Executive Distributor - ItWorks! Global
All-Natural Health, Wellness and Beauty www.kchristian.myitworks.com Supplements, Skin Care, Energy Drinks, and MORE!
If you run into a wall with a helmet on, you still ran into a wall.
I bring my vehicles to the shop to extract the remainder of the bolts that I sheared off in the frame. That's the only thing I'm not very good at.
2023 KTM 890 Adventure R
I work on my own stuff and I do all my own stunts.
KB
I do the same as Trouble, suspension and big motor work I would send out but would have no issue with dropping the engine out of the bike to get it to the shop. I find that part to be surprisingly easy.
As for vavle adjustments I stripped my bike down to the engine but I paid Degsy to do the actual valve adjustment as I wanted it done right. I think I could do the next one by myself if I wanted to but I will most likely hire him again to do the actual measurements and re-buttoning up the engine. I think putting the cam shafts back in and getting them correct on the chain was the most difficult part of the whole process.
Man, I am jealous of that workshop...
LRRS EX #7
Low Down Racing
- Woodcraft - Armour Bodies - Computrack Boston - Lifeproof -
Wirelessly posted
I mark the cam sprockets with white out so i know i have the correct number of links between cam sprockets.Originally Posted by scubasteveRR
It is important to have the cams lines up in the correct spot when you take them out and reinstall them because if you just mark everything and dont worry about where the crank is in its cycle, the cam lobes and springs can cause the cam towers to crack or bend when you loosen them off.
As long as the chain has not moved on the crank, and the the crank has not moved enough to make the chain markings at the cams move out of sight, the crank position becomes irrelevant. You just need to make sure the cam teeth align with the same teeth on the chain as before. On some bikes, this means marking both cam sprockets, the crank sprocket, and the chain in three places. On my bike, the cam chain cannot slip on the crank sprocket without splitting the engine cases, even if the chain is completely loose, so I only need to mark the chain in two places, and both cams.
I think he's saying to rotate the engine such that all of the valves are closed (TDC). This way there is little or no pressure on the cams.
I think..
Wirelessly posted
Youre absolutely correct and that is a perfectly good way to do it. I didnt mean to say that isnt right. Sorry for miscommuniation.Originally Posted by stoinkythepig
What i meant was that the manuals give you a loosening/tightening order for the cam tower bolts. That is based usually on a particular cylinder being at TDC on a compression stroke. This is because of where the cam lobes end up. Some will be compressing the valve springs and if you loosen those bolts first, the cam tower will have lateral force applied to it from the valve spring and that risks a cam tower crack. Does that make sense? Did i explain it right?
I get it now, yeah that makes perfect sense. I am very careful about cam bolts and only use the torque sequence provided by the service manual after the bolts are all snugged down. What I do is a learned skill and perhaps best left to people that have done this sort of stuff over and over.
Wirelessly posted
Yep. Not possible on an I4. You have to use the factory marks combined with the loosening order UNLESS you know what youre doing and have done it a bunch. Then you can do it the stoinky way and it works perfectly.Originally Posted by stoinkythepig
Hmm.. I guess that makes sense. I never touched the cams in the one I4 I had; it had old fashioned screw and lock nut adjusters.
Try to do most work myself, I take a pass on carb and heavy engine work. Although today I did send the ZZR out for a chain change,( I did the sprockets) since I didn't have a chain rivet tool and for the $44 they charged me to do it was worth it.