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Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

  1. #26
    First name on the shit list.... SVRACER01's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    e track mount for a TV?

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  2. #27
    First name on the shit list.... SVRACER01's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    i dont know how much it matters to you, but when getting changed/ready its nice to have someplace to sit thats more solid than one of those fold up chairs. maybe a fold up bench on one of the walls. nothing huge, just a place to plop your ass to put your boots on etc.

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  3. #28
    Super Moderator OreoGaborio's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Quote Originally Posted by xxaarraa View Post
    The extra foot in a 7 foot trailer makes a huge difference.
    Dude, the extra width is awesome. Love my 7.5 wide.

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  4. #29
    go faster cdovego's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    That's a bitchin setup.

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  5. #30
    xxaarraa
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    OK, I am about to dust off this trailer and get it prepped for the season. The one area that needs to be refined is interior electrical. I could use some ideas and feedback on what wiring/electrical is useful inside a trailer. Here is what I have now:

    • LED lights - wired to my battery on the tongue
    • Ceiling vent fan - wired to same battery


    Here is what I would like in addition:

    • Simple wall outlets in 2-3 places to plug in small electronics such as cell phones - wired to the battery
    • A "shore power" socket on the outside where I can plug in a lead from the track or my generator to power the big items in trailer including a microwave, keurig, standing fan, and potentially an AC
    • I would like this outside junction to also be hooked up to the battery charger so that when I plug in the shore lead, the onboard battery charges at the same time.
    • I would like this outside junction to also be hooked up to 2 dedicated wall sockets on the inside (as opposed to these wall sockets feeding off the onboard battery) - to keep the bikes tendered over longer standby periods, if needed.


    What am I missing? I have never had an enclosed trailer so any other "you really need this.." tips would be helpful. I plan to have my home electrician do everything during the next week or so, and want to give him a full list of to-do's.

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    Last edited by xxaarraa; 03-10-17 at 07:52 AM.

  6. #31
    Soul Rider Paul_E_D's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    That's a good plan. Run only 12V off the batter 120v off the 15amp shore power outlet. Blue sea makes nice pieces for all of this. A small fuse box for your 12v circuits at least would be good. A very small (300w) inverter would give you the luxury of charging a laptop or other 120v gear without being too big a draw on the house battery. I have completely removed inverters from my system though. Not worth the draw for their limited function.

    What I have for shore charging is a converter charger like this: Amazon.com: Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard: Automotive
    While plugged in to shore, it will keep your battery charging and healthy.

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    Paul_E_D


  7. #32
    Lifer
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    They make a thing to do whatcho want. I think the one Paul linked is more or less the same to what I used for my trailer. This is the one I used.

    Add a power inlet to the side of the trailer for connecting shore power. The panel I linked uses regular house-type 120VAC breakers. Mine has capacity for two AC circuits, but I only use one. That circuit powers 3 outlets installed around the perimeter of the trailer. These are only live when connected to shore power or an AC generator. When connected I am also charging my battery. The panel also provides a few 12VDC circuits. I have a ceiling fan, led rope lights and a USB/power outlet thing connected. These all run off 12VDC and are live off the battery without shore power. Protect the 12VDC bits with a breaker inline between the panel and the battery. This also lets you cut the loads entirely when you park the trailer and it is not inuse. I can charge cell phones off the USB outlets at my bench/counter. I have a low-draw 12VDC fridge that I currently connect through the 12VDC outlet, but need to get around to hardwiring.

    I have a single 100 MAH "group 31" 12V deep cycle RV/marine battery. It's an inexpensive wet cell. I pull it out in the winter and keep it on a battery tender in the basement. I believe it is good for 1 maybe 2 days of track-side living w/o shore power; pushing the mini fridge, roof fan, lights and charging a cell phone. I do not have any inverters and do not push 120VAC loads off the battery.

    I'm a little fast and lose with the battery. You are not supposed to push the batteries below 50% charge. I have no idea if I do or not. Were I doing serious loads (including 120VAC through an inverter) I'd probably consider a pair of 6V golf cart batteries instead. 2 6V GC batteries yields like 4x the capacity for 2x the cost & weight. I cheaped out here. I also would have liked to have gone with AGM batteries I wouldn't have to vent. Someday.

    Last spring I added a solar panel to the roof and a small 35A charge controller. This bypasses the RV charge center and charges the battery directly. With this setup I can go for a long weekend track side with my 12VDC loads and not worry. I also don't bother plugging the trailer in at home anymore. The solar charger brings the battery back up in a week parked without the loads running. It's pretty sweet.


    If you need to run small 120VAC loads off the battery then you need an inverter and some sort of cutout to bypass the battery charger when running those loads off the inverter. Much more complicated. Blue Sea makes kits that include a switch and battery isolator that I think would do what you need. But I didn't learn much about it as I decided I didn't need to run 120VAC off my battery.

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  8. #33
    Lifer
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    There are some photos of my install here : http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...ml#post1465579

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  9. #34
    xxaarraa
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_E_D View Post

    What I have for shore charging is a converter charger like this: Amazon.com: Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard: Automotive
    While plugged in to shore, it will keep your battery charging and healthy.
    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    They make a thing to do whatcho want. I think the one Paul linked is more or less the same to what I used for my trailer. This is the one I used.
    Thanks guys. To charge the battery, I just bought this - Amazon.com: NOCO Genius G7200 12V/24V 7.2A UltraSafe Smart Battery Charger: Automotive

    It seems to be doing a good job of charging and maintaining my battery. I was hoping to just have this plugged into the 120V outlet on the inside that feeds off the shore power terminal on the outside. Is that not a good plan, and do I need to buy one of the charge converters you guys are talking about?

    The solar charger is slick!

    From what I am gathering, I think upgrading the 75 ah battery with a more capable battery (or pair) is on my horizon as well.

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  10. #35
    Lifer
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    It depends on what you want to do. The load center thing I linked is awesome because it is that charger you bought AND a 12VDC converter/supply AND a power distribution center AND has circuit breaker / fuse protection for all the wiring all built into one, UL rated package. This is what they put in RVs for a reason. All you need in one compact package. Mine has the battery protection and trickle charging as well. I was headed down the road of piecing it all together with separate components for charging, 12VDC supply, fuses, breaker panel, etc, etc etc when someone pointed out these RV units. Fraction the cost and all in one nice, compact package. Makes a lot of sense IMO.

    I built my setup over time:

    First the load center, shore power wiring and 12VDC circuits
    Then the 120VAC circuits
    Then the battery
    Then the solar setup

    Battery req's are fairly simple to figure out; what's the total average draw you intend (in amps) times the number of hours you intend to draw (in hours). That equals "amp hours" or AH, which is how batteries are rated. Usually it is not advisable to drive the batteries below 50% charge. So multiply by two and there you go.

    Conversely, your 75AH battery is good for an average of 2A of load for just shy of 19 hours of draw.

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  11. #36
    xxaarraa
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Did a few more things to get organized for the season.

    Added a rolling toolcart, bunch more etrack and etrack accessories, moved as much to the walls as I could.


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  12. #37
    xxaarraa
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    OK, I now want AC in the trailer (particularly for dog).

    I don't want to go full RV style roof mount due to the cost and the effort required to install.
    I don't want to go window unit because its very ghetto.

    So I researched the portable units and most links on garage journal or elsewhere seem to have very mediocre reviews of their ability to cool a trailer. Wondering if folks here have any experience with these that suggest otherwise. Would something like a 12000 or 14000 BTU portable unit do the job cooling my 7x14 trailer? How hard is the install of the vent, would you just vent through the floor? I have read that the vent hose heats up quite a bit so venting through the floor may be the best?

    I think my trailer is insulated, at least partly as I can see some evidence of it (see pic above), but I am not sure how extensively the previous owner did it. So I'd assume the worst and say its not insulated.

    I am happy to spend $400-500 on a 12,000 or maybe even 14,000 BTU unit like this one:

    Amazon.com: BLACK+DECKER BPACT12HWT 12,000 BTU Cooling, 10,000 BTU Heating Portable Air Conditioner with Remote Control: Home & Kitchen

    Or this one:

    Amazon.com: Whynter 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner with Storage bag (ARC-14S): Home & Kitchen

    Thanks guys,

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    Last edited by xxaarraa; 05-20-17 at 05:17 PM.

  13. #38
    Wizard loudbeard's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    If you're happy to spend $500, you really would be better to get a roof top. Install is not that bad, you would just need to pull a wall and ceiling panel to route the electrical cable. You could also permanently mount a thermostat on the wall.

    I have one of the units like you linked in my office, they cool very well but you'll need to route a 4" flexible duct to the outside, that's a deal breaker for me. They also eat up a lot of floor space.

    I know you hate my opinions, but there you have​ it anyway.

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  14. #39
    xxaarraa
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Quote Originally Posted by Pinned View Post
    If you're happy to spend $500, you really would be better to get a roof top. Install is not that bad, you would just need to pull a wall and ceiling panel to route the electrical cable. You could also permanently mount a thermostat on the wall.

    I have one of the units like you linked in my office, they cool very well but you'll need to route a 4" flexible duct to the outside, that's a deal breaker for me. They also eat up a lot of floor space.

    I know you hate my opinions, but there you have​ it anyway.
    Dude, I don't hate your opinions man. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

    Tell me why the duct is a no-go. Drilling two small holes in the floor of trailer seems so much more manageable than taking apart panels and cutting open my roof? My idea was to drill holes for the vent, then design some kind of latching seal contraption so that when AC is not being used, I can seal the floor seamlessly. That way, the AC can also be removed or moved when not needed. My trailer is fairly roomy, so floor space for a small AC is not an issue for me anyway.

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    Last edited by xxaarraa; 05-20-17 at 08:43 PM.

  15. #40
    Lifer Kurlon's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    First, remember that during the day, if there is a bike on warmers in the garage, there isn't enough amperage available on that circuit to also run an AC. When there aren't bikes running, I don't think two ACs will run without tripping the breakers.

    My 6 x 10 uninsulated, no paneling trailer is cooled by an 8k BTU Coleman Mach roof unit. When it's blazing out, it may not get the inside down to 65 degrees but it takes a LOT of the anger out of the heat. I primarily use it to dry the inside of the trailer when the humidity is up. For regular cooling I've got a Vortex vent fan that does a GREAT job at moving fresh air into the trailer cutting down on the tin oven effect when sitting in the sun. A good roof vent fan combined with a floor vent fan would do a good job of keeping the temps from climbing above ambient with the trailer closed up.

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  16. #41
    Lifer Garandman's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    I looked into portables because our place in NH has Anderson swing out windows and mounting a window unit, even a casement style, wouldn't be convenient.

    From all the reviews I found, they don't cool well, they're noisy, and they take up floor space. If someone has a brand and model that works well, lemme know.

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  17. #42
    xxaarraa
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Quote Originally Posted by Kurlon View Post
    First, remember that during the day, if there is a bike on warmers in the garage, there isn't enough amperage available on that circuit to also run an AC. When there aren't bikes running, I don't think two ACs will run without tripping the breakers.

    My 6 x 10 uninsulated, no paneling trailer is cooled by an 8k BTU Coleman Mach roof unit. When it's blazing out, it may not get the inside down to 65 degrees but it takes a LOT of the anger out of the heat. I primarily use it to dry the inside of the trailer when the humidity is up. For regular cooling I've got a Vortex vent fan that does a GREAT job at moving fresh air into the trailer cutting down on the tin oven effect when sitting in the sun. A good roof vent fan combined with a floor vent fan would do a good job of keeping the temps from climbing above ambient with the trailer closed up.
    I am not worried about power Kurlon, I can always use my generator to power the AC whether shore power is available or not. Good tip on the roof vent fan. My trailer does have a roof vent fan that's tied to the marine battery; I just need to troubleshoot why its not getting any power.

    Quote Originally Posted by Garandman View Post
    I looked into portables because our place in NH has Anderson swing out windows and mounting a window unit, even a casement style, wouldn't be convenient.

    From all the reviews I found, they don't cool well, they're noisy, and they take up floor space. If someone has a brand and model that works well, lemme know.
    I read the same. However, amazon reviews of the higher end 12-14k units as well as what Pinned says above seems to indicate they have improved recently? I am curious what Pinned as to say.

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  18. #43
    Angry Gumball RandyO's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    plenty of eye decals for your trailer,

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  19. #44
    Wizard loudbeard's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Quote Originally Posted by xxaarraa View Post
    Dude, I don't hate your opinions man. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

    Tell me why the duct is a no-go. Drilling two small holes in the floor of trailer seems so much more manageable than taking apart panels and cutting open my roof? My idea was to drill holes for the vent, then design some kind of latching seal contraption so that when AC is not being used, I can seal the floor seamlessly. That way, the AC can also be removed or moved when not needed. My trailer is fairly roomy, so floor space for a small AC is not an issue for me anyway.
    I guess I just don't really view the roof installation as being a much greater challenge than sorting out a vent pipe solution for a portable floor unit. Wall and ceiling panels in a trailer are pretty easy to pull and a hole in the roof is just a few minutes with a square, tape measure, and angle grinder. My primary reason is the finished product is so much nicer and cost is similar. That and I also view any single thing I can do to eliminate a step from setup and breakdown when you're at the track is a huge bonus. Plug and play.

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  20. #45
    Super Moderator TheIglu's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Don't forget the need to drain the condensate tank on a portable unit.

    I think a proper roof mount would look best, work best and just be generally a more professional way to do it. Plus it's quieter.

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  21. #46
    Lifer Kurlon's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    If it's just to keep puppers cool, 5k blowing in his general area will do the trick even if it doesn't make the trailer an ice box or have optimal efficiency.

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  22. #47
    Member TB151's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Trailer is looking good man. Great meeting you Friday!!
    Travis

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  23. #48
    xxaarraa
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Quote Originally Posted by Kurlon View Post
    If it's just to keep puppers cool, 5k blowing in his general area will do the trick even if it doesn't make the trailer an ice box or have optimal efficiency.
    It is just for the dog.

    To back up a step, my real motivation is to give him a quiet space where the noises from the bikes and pit lane are minimized as much as possible (along with being cool). Butterscotch has been to hundreds of track days since he was 11 months old, but I have a suspicion he is developing noise anxiety in his middle age (he's now 6).

    Which means, I'd love to close the ramp door and side door of the trailer with him in there, and just leave the side door window and roof vents open. Which means I have to have it well air conditioned to be able to do that...

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    Last edited by xxaarraa; 05-22-17 at 03:44 AM.

  24. #49
    Lifer Kurlon's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Ok, if noise is a component I'd rule out a roof unit, they are FAR from quiet. Start comparing window and floor models for noise. I know you can spend BIG bucks to get some quiet window shakers. If a window unit ends up being the best, your install stays similar, put it in a bottom cabinet with a big hole in the floor behind it, possibly with a fan to boost air exchange.

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  25. #50
    Lifer Garandman's Avatar
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    Re: Need a pair of eyes on my trailer setup plans...

    Our house in Boston doesn't have central air so we have GE, Friedrich, Frigidaire and Sharp window units. Friedrich is The Best, but the GE's are great bang-for-buck and lighter.

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