Panic Stop Technique

[golden chicken]

Every human (and many other animals) experiences what self-defense experts have dubbed the 'startle-flinch', which is an instinctive reaction. It is often characterized by a ducking of the head, raising the hands, and a general tensing of the body. It has been shown that not even the most highly trained person can escape this survival instinct. On a bike, this probably appears as locking up or what we would call target fixating.

What you CAN train is recovering back to a relaxed and in-control state ASAP so that you can effectively deal with the threat, and you can train to detect threats (like that girl in the Prius who is weaving in her lane because she's texting) before they startle you.

[aldend123]

Lot of good info in the thread, thanks guys.

I tried keeping the weight off the bars on the way home yesterday and really liked it. It'll take some more practice until I can get good at it. Can't articulate why though. More triangle-like weight distribution? Clayton's post has encouraged me to try some low-speed front lock ups. I'll take the beater bike out for that The next big place I can probably shorten the stopping distance is getting the front loaded quicker. I've always been very progressive, with emphasis on smooth. But probably with a pretty sizable safety margin.

Interesting point about holding the rear brake once locked. Would you want to keep it locked even if you're relatively straight and upright? When practicing, I release and reapply.

I wish I had ABS, maybe the next bike. I practice heavy braking in my car since I started driving and I feel it really helped a lot, even though it's much easier than a bike. It's strange how many people spend a big part of their life behind the wheel but don't have any clue how quick their car can (or can't) stop.

[nhbubba]

It is somewhat counter intuitive, but a the front wheel on a motorcycle actually wiggles back and forth at speed. Being heavy on the bars, or as they say, running with a death grip will interfere with this. Interfere a little and you loose stability. Interfere enough and you will loose traction. Loose traction and your day just starts to suck.

Loose on the bars is always the better option. Always. Braking, cornering, cruising, rain, dry, track, street. Doesn't matter.

One of the biggest 'things' I struggle with riding. Especially in an emergency.

[nhbubba]

The rear brake thing is interesting.

I grew up taught that the rear brake was to stabilize the bike. For a long time I believed it.. I still do, somewhat. The rationale I've come to grips with in my own experience is that the rear brake just isn't worth the risk. For the very small amount of effective stopping power you get out of it, there is a tremendous risk of a skid. It is easier to straight out ignore it and focus all of my (limited) brain power on modulating the front brake.

This opinion has been reinforced in conversations I've had with very fast riders.

Now I only use the rear for slow-speed maneuvers. At speed, my foot doesn't go anywhere near it. Even though I have ABS.

My first track day they were demonstrating foot position on the pegs as it pertains to body position. I asked "How do you work the rear brake with your foot that far back?" The answer: "You don't; ignore the rear brake." My track toy has maybe an ounce or two of brake fluid in the rear brake. There is no master reservoir for the rear. That's fine, it only gets used when inching the bike along on hot-pit.

It just isn't important enough to matter on most sport-ish motorcycles.


This, by the way, is contrary to what far too many cruiser riders preach. They preach that the front brake is "too powerful" and should be avoided. This is mind blowing. Especially since they have so much rake and such long wheelbase that the front brake is potentially very powerful. I didn't realize how prevalent (and dangerous) that mindset was until I recently saw a cruiser rider high-side himself into the woods at Deals Gap in NC. Ouch..

[jasnmar]

Rear brake and its effectiveness will vary depending on the specific situation.

If you are in a condition where you have good traction on the front, and you are on a "sport type" bike, then rear brake should be almost useless, as you should be braking hard enough (if it is truly an emergency situation) that the rear is (or almost is) in the air. Applying the rear brake in that situation does nothing. I'm not that good at braking yet, so that's theory... In (my) reality there is still some weight on the rear wheel. Applying braking forces to it (assuming I have the focus to do so) certainly won't hurt anything. In my experience with these things, stuff does slow down enough that I have time to think about it. If you have to prioritize, focus on the front.

In "less good" traction, and on non-sporting types of bike the situation changes. For big heavy bikes like cruisers and tourers they often come with linked braking systems because it is effective to use both the front and rear (as a stoppie isn't going to happen on a goldwing), so take advantage of that.

A front slide is recoverable, but as others have mentioned you do want to be straight up. I sometimes ride in some stoopidly low traction situations and may have experienced a front skid once or twice. So far they haven't cause a crash, but it was at least as much luck as skill in my case. I don't try to repeat the experience of causing a front slide on a regular basis.

The cruiser crowd often preaches the "dangers" of the front brake and ideas like sending the bike ass over teakettle, but these are often the same guys who have to lay'er'down, so yea...

[aldend123]

I think in the ideal method Tony described, assuming a professional brake tester on a sport bike, the rear brake is still useful as the front suspension is setting. You haven't had time to get the rear wheel up yet. Probably quickens the weight transfer to the front so you can get on the front brakes quicker. I have been covering my rear brake in slower speed city-like traffic because I find it easier than trying to keep my fingers on the front brake while constantly articulating the throttle. I want it to buy me time to get my fingers over the lever.

I need to start practicing in the rain too. I'm excessively delicate in the rain, but I don't really have a game plan for if something pops out in front of me besides hoping I get it right the first time.

You're story reminds me of a situation I envision this skill being important: Watching a person waiting in the on-coming lane to turn left across your lane, but having someone on your right waiting to enter your lane as well. It is difficult to keep a watchful eye on both simultaneously.