Just picked this up

[blacklightning]

There is a diode (physically located on the bottom of the ignition) that drops voltage from 12v to 9v. The ecm wants to see 9v before it powers the pump. This is to prevent "hotwiring."

[jcbell1007]

Bergs - Pump still won't prime. I took your advice to see if it was the pump that was gone, and I wired 12v directly to it. this made the pump run, and I tried starting it with the pump hotwired but it still wouldn't fire.

CBR - thanks for the offer, I do appreciate it but I can get a replacement locally for around $80-100 (non-yuasa battery though).

blacklightning - i was hoping this is something I can test with the multi-meter? check for voltage on the pink (i think) wire that comes off the switch and see if its putting out 9v. if it is, then i'm thinking its the ecm that I will have to replace. if its not, I was reading that its a 3v diode that can be removed, and replaced with just a little soldering? thoughts?

dark - i'll see you tomorrow afternoon.

thanks for the input guys, i do appreciate all the help.

[Chippertheripper]

Your multimeter should have a diode setting. Apparently it will drop 3vdc one way (as opposed to the standard .4-.7vdc) and read overload, or open the other way. It's like an electrical check-valve so to speak.

[jcbell1007]

So I get some time to go tear into it today and boy do I feel retarded now.

I test the diode and check continuity again through the bank angle sensor and both are good. I'm thinking to myself, fuck, i gotta replace the ecm because everything else is good. Then I start going back over everything, battery terminals set up right, fuses/relays all good, switches etc.... and I take notice of a little gray box that I failed to pay much attention to. Its not marked, has wires that go to the injectors, so its some kind of tuner.

pull it open and the board is stamped with techlusion. OK, so now I know what it is. the rubber seal was a little out of place so I give the internals a little dusting. start tracing everything back and thats when I realize, the ground for the techlusion module is not on the negative side of the battery (????????) I didn't do this, hadn't touched it. I'm thinking the PO that had it, didn't know what he was doing, saw the red washer/connector on the end and thought it was supposed to go to the positive terminal.

Needless to say, I switch terminals, hook up the jumper cables, turn the key and sure enough, I head the pretty whir of the fuel pump. thumb the starter, it cranks for a second or two and fires right up.

idles a little rough, but probably just gummed up a little and crappy gas still in the lines from sitting for a few years. rev's great, sounds awesome with the full M4 system on it.

Now I just need an oil change, fork seals/oil, and some TLC. For what it's worth, I can't hear the cam chain at all.

[CBR929RE]

nice. always the simplest things that get overlooked. now do all the regular stuff and bring it to BoMo the end of the month

[jcbell1007]

I'm going to do my best to get it to a track day by the end of the month, no guarantees though.

next question, whats the smallest battery I can run in here? stock was a YTZ-10 series, 10s I believe. I took the YTZ-7s out of the hawk and it will fire up and run fine, but the 7 series is too tall. are you guys able to run a 5 series in here?

[Doc]

Friggin SWEET!!

[jcbell1007]

Just comparing, YTZ10s has 190 cranking amps, 7s has 130, and a 5s has 100, the 5 would fit dimension wise, think it would crank the bike over and run fine? keep in mind this will be just for the track and no street riding with lights etc...

[darkduc7]

i need to find me a deal like you did on this bike. im jealous you bastard.

[Chippertheripper]

Woot!

[Doc]

Just comparing, YTZ10s has 190 cranking amps, 7s has 130, and a 5s has 100, the 5 would fit dimension wise, think it would crank the bike over and run fine? keep in mind this will be just for the track and no street riding with lights etc...

What cranking amps is the stock battery? 190?

[jcbell1007]

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Stock is 190 ca, 130 ca seemed to work fine, question is if 100 ca would work too?

[jcbell1007]

Bueller?

any ideas on the smaller battery? what are you other racers running?

[Doc]

Bueller?

any ideas on the smaller battery? what are you other racers running?

How much do you want to spend?

http://www.hordpower.com/index.php?m...eb0caee4b232b7

The 4 cell would work, you might get a six cell just to be sure. Ask Hord.

[butcher bergs]

what are you other racers running?

More throttle, less brake.

[SVRACER01]

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Werd

[jcbell1007]

Ended up finding a 10 series battery for $75 locally. Forks got re-sealed this week with a little heavier oil. Installed the woodcraft rearsets and frame sliders. Tore out the headlight assembly and some other parts, remounted the BAS on the fairing stay, and safety wired/drilled almost everything. When wiring the header bolts, I found the the middle two cylinders had their spark plug caps not in place. middle left was touching, middle right was completely off. Runs much better on 4 cylinders now.

I put the front end back on it yesterday, and just need to go back to mounting all the plastics on for some test riding.

Thanks again for all the help, i'm sure I'll have more questions at some point.

[qqac]

You might want to check out the motydesign battery next time. It will shave 5 lbs. off.

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=172013&page=2

[jcbell1007]

I looked into going with a lithium pack. but it came to me needing a battery quickly so I could do some shakedown on it and went with the stock one that was in stock locally.

Which, BTW, I took for a short ride yesterday. Found I have a slightly warped rotor that I will have to deal with for the time being. Also, under deceleration, there is a buzz/rattle which I am assuming is the CCT. Looks like i'm going to pick up an APE manual one soon before I hit the track with it. anyone know someone that carries them locally or the cheapest place to buy one?

Seems to drive and shift well. Sounds mean with the m4 system on it. I have to get used to running an I4 again because I was short shifting at like 10k rpms, and its a lot wider than the duc/hawk.