question for rattle can paint pro's.

[RandyO]

If you have an automotive paint store close by, you can buy auto paint of your choice and color and have them put it in a rattle can. I know I saw this service with PPG paints at a CarQuest store not to long ago.
I've never had good luck with any of the store bought rattle cans lasting any length of time

this

when I touched up my SV tank, I took it off the bike, brought it to the paint store, they scanned it with their spectrometer and mixed me an exact match

[SVRACER01]

i cant remember. depends on what the can says. probably an hour.
i usually do 1 piece at a time. i get one started and while im waiting for shit to dry ill start on another piece. when i get to a stopping point ill start another. by the time i get everything to the same stage its time to start the cycle again.

[Awesome]

I've found the work is 20 times more important than the paint. Prep, application and finishing.

[nhbubba]

when I...

Where do you get decent paint around here?

[jasnmar]

http://www.sanelautoparts.net/bodyshop.html

[RandyO]

Where do you get decent paint around here?

Sanel in Dover is where I got the paint, they carry DuPont products

[Tricklidz]

Here- http://lidzduc.blogspot.com/2012/04/...deluxe_11.html
But I should have used 2 part clear, it didn't stand up to gas. Small spill didn't remove clear, but dulled it. 2 stage clear is a must, just tough to find in a can!!

[boosten lebaron]

Its pretty much universally agreed that spraymax 2k clear is the only way to go for an aerosol clear. Im certain im going to go with that for the clear. Its just the enamel color im looking for now.

[MikeBike]

RC Paint Pros.
After reading this post I decided to return to my Hawk NT650 race bike project and apply a top coat of Eastwood 2k Clearcoat. I had spent a month of Sundays (literally) sanding, priming, sanding, base coat, etc........ and was somewhat satified with my finished "Rattlecan" paint job. Then I read this post, purchased two cans of Eastwood 2k clear coat and returned to the paint booth one last time.
Holy shit!!!! It looks like I had a professional body shop painted it. Thanks everyone for the heads up.....

[boosten lebaron]

What paint did you use for the base coat? looks good.

[gamorg02]

looks really good? any sanding/buffing?

[AimlessMoto]

Here's what I did for my GS750...

BEFORE:




-Aircraft strip everything (NOT PLASTIC PARTS, just sand those).
-100G sandpaper everything
-1 THIN coat of primer sealer or sandable primer, wait 5 mins then 1 more THIN coat of primer.
- let dry for 2 hours (regardless of what the can says)
- bondo what needs to be fixed (let cure for 3 hours)
- sand with 100 grit to smooth out the tank... if you see metal, try to focus on high spots in the center
- wipe down with rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth, clean all dust off with a micro-fiber cloth
- 1 THIN coat of primer sealer.
- Check for blemishes/smoothness
- Fix any problems now with the previous steps until things are smooth...
- Do one medium coat of primer sealer when your tank is looking perfect... let dry for 3 hours.
- This is controversial... but I tend to wet-sand my primer coats. I did 800g wet sand to ensure baby's ass smooth, 1000 if I'm feeling I left any swirl marks or gouges.

Now pick your color, and spray away in the following method.
- 1 thin dusting... not even visible, mostly transparent. Wait 15 minutes.
- Another thin dusting... don't get over zealous. Wait 15 minutes.
- Another thin dusting... getting the clue? Wait 15 minutes.




By now you should have a good base built up.
-1 MEDIUM coat, you will see imperfections.. that's OK, walk away for 15 minutes.
- 1 more medium to heavy coat, this is where you get drips if you haven't let the paint cure up for 15 minutes between coats.
Be especially careful on top to side transitions.
- Leave the tank alone for 12 hour... even if you have a drip here or there, don't get discouraged, just leave it alone.



After 12 hours:
- Lightly sand the entire tank with WET (presoak the sandpaper for 15 minutes before using) 800 grit sandpaper. If you have any drips, now's the time to focus CAREFULLY on those areas, you don't want to burn through the surrounding paint. Also, be careful on any edges.. these coat thinner than panels.
IF YOU BURN THROUGH TO THE PRIMER.. that's OK, it can be fixed.

OK: Final steps. After wet-sanding, wash the tank off with HOT water and a mild soap... then alcohol on a rag, then dust it dry with a microfiber cloth.



Get set up to paint.
- Using the COLOR paint... lightly dust the entire tank. Let it sit for 15 minutes.
- In areas you burned through or had defects, now do a SWEEPING medium coat over these areas to blend them in...



At this point, if your paint is look terrible... flat in some areas, blotchy, what-have-you... DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT.

- After you hit all areas leave the tank to CURE.. meaning this is a chemical process and needs TIME.

DO NOT apply 2K clear over un-cured or under-cured paint... let the paint harden completely for 12-24 hours before attempting to clear it.

This is also the time you should place any under-clear decals... be sure to dust over the decals 3-4 times before trying to do a full coat over them. They could lift and bubble under the chemical compounds in the clear.

NOW.. follow all directions on the 2kClear bottle. You should need 2-3 bottles for an entire bike, full fairings, 5 bottles.

Dust it... walk away for 15
Dust it again... walk away for 15
Dust it again... walk away for 15
If you applied decals... dust it 2 or 3 more times before moving on...
Then start your medium coats.
2-3 medium coats followed by a medium to heavy coat, all 15-20 minutes apart.
Once completed you may have drips and imperfections... STILL can be fixed... just let the 2k Clear cure. You may have milky looking paint, blotches, orange peel... no big deal, move one.

After the 24 hour cure time I suggest leaving them outside in the sun for another 10 hours or so. Just to fully harden the paint. DO NOT use a heat gun... You could use hot flood lamps, but be sure nothing is flammable around the parts, also, don't get it too close to plastic parts.

LAST STEPS.

1. WET SAND: 1000 grit. Slow, steady circles.
2. WET SAND: 2000 grit. Slow, steady circles.
- All imperfections should be nearly invisible now even though you are left with a dull looking tank.





3. RUBBING COMPOUND. Apply liberally to a damp microfiber buffer pad (YOU MUST USE A BUFFER, hand buffing will not work correctly for this).
- Work slowly, in circles over all areas, be aware of edges like with sanding... you can still burn through the paint... DO NOT ADD PRESSURE, let the buffer do the work.
- You may need to repeat this step 2-3 times to get the desired shine.



4. Wash off excess with damp towel.
5. Pure carnuba wax... wax on... wax off..





Final touches:
Get some all-purpose epoxy... liquid weld, anything works... run a THIN bead around your gas filler neck where the taped off edge of the paint is. If you don't do this, fumes can go up under the paint and cause it to bubble and eventually chip off.

You're done... instal and enjoy.

3 big things here:
DO NOT BE IN A RUSH. It'll take 3-4 days to do it right.
Some people let the paint cure for a WEEK before they buff it out... to each their own. Depends on how much of a rush you SHOULDNT BE IN!
Lastly: THE FINAL PRODUCT IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE FIRST COAT.

Examples: Dupli-Color sandable primer, Dupli-Color color-match paint, 2k Clear



ONE YEAR LATER:

Still looks great!

[gamorg02]

Final touches:
Get some all-purpose epoxy... liquid weld, anything works... run a THIN bead around your gas filler neck where the taped off edge of the paint is. If you don't do this, fumes can go up under the paint and cause it to bubble and eventually chip off.

You're done... instal and enjoy.

first off outstanding job, really looks good and awesome write up. the bead of epoxy i've never heard of. i think i may try it though as the tank i just coated was lined and it'd be good to have a sort of glue holding between the paint and red-kote. where'd u pick up that trick?

[MikeBike]

I used Krylon True Blue and Clear Coat. I spent alot of time preping and repairing the previous owner's crash damage. I wet sanded between every primer, base and clear coat. After two weeks of cure the Krylon clear coat still easly scratched. That is when I came accross this post. I wet sanded the parts one last time and used the Easton 2k Clear Gloss to finish (Two coats with 20 minutes cure between each). The photos do not do the final finish justice. The paint looks as if it is coated in glass. I did not intend on a professional looking paint job when I started. After all, it is a race bike doomed fron the start to get wadded up.... LOL
I am impressed with the Easton 2k!!! Thanks again for everyone's input.

[gamorg02]

heres mine in the sun. circa: yesterday

[boosten lebaron]

So ive started the painting process. Im just at the primer stage for today after prepping the 2 small side panels and tank. I used jb weld to repair the bullet hole in the otherwise mint 33 year old tank so that took up a lot of my time. Im not exactly sure if bondo will stick to the jb but im going to find out. I also had to plastic weld a nice crack in a side panel too. Im on my final coat of duplicolor primer. So far they look perfect. I went to go buy some of the duplicolor enamel but couldnt find any locally. Im going to order that along with the 2k spraymax clear.
This part is always the easy part for me. Im not to worried about the prep or the steps i must take, im more worried about the quality of the final product. Looks like im going to doing it solid white for the wife which makes me very nervous about the overall paint job ability to withstand gas spills.

[AimlessMoto]

I accidentally had an overflow on mine... Can you see
it? Nope! That 2k clear is tough as nails.

[nhbubba]

Anyone ever heard of "spray putty"? I heard a tip to use this after filling (with bondo) but before priming. This is supposed to fill pinholes and such. I heard this from a youtube video from an Australian. After reading, I think that this is just "Australian" for high-fill primer. I think.