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I am repainting my 1992 GS500e. I have bondoed it, sealed and applied high build primer. I will use Spray Max 2k catalyzed rattle can urethane clear coat for gasoline resistance.
My question is about the color. I am going to paint it white, but does anyone have any info on rattlecan paint in terms of sunlight stability. Just grab some Rustoleum fleet white? Keep using the parts store SEM brand stuff?
I don't want a yellow paint job after two months.
Just do a bunch of coats of Rustoleum and you should be good to go.
At Central Paint and Supply in Worcester they will put Dupont automotive paint in a aerosol can after mixing it. Pricey at 15 per can.
Wirelessly posted (Instinct: TELECA-/2.0 (BREW 3.1.5; U; EN-US; SAMSUNG; SPH-M800; Teleca/Q05A/INT) MMP/2.0 Profile/MIDP-2.1 Configuration/CLDC-1.1)
I highly suggest you go to walmart and buy the spray can attachment that makes the can work more like a spray gun. its like $3 and really saves your fingers from cramping and it lays down a nice even coat. if youre going store bought rattlecan than get the cans with fancy adustable nozzles (i want to say rustoleum) the ones that spray in an eliptical pattern. i did my race bike in rattlecan and it came out really good considering i didnt spray clear on it. the white i used on the # plates came out real good
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
nice! Any comments as to how the Rustoleum or Valspar held up?
I was gonna say the Valspar stuff is good too. I started bombing my track bodywork last year with Krylon. whole can of primer and wasn't even close to covered after many coats. bought some Valspar and left the krylon on the shelf. thought the nozzle was good too.
its all in the prep. if you do good body work with the bondo before you paint the end result will look better.
Last edited by CBR929RE; 03-24-10 at 09:02 PM.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
Do you guys sand between coats?
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
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krylon might have been what i used.
my steps were:
sand with like 220
wash
grey primer
wet sand with sanding sponge
grey primer
sand with like 500
light coat of color
wet sand with 1000
paint with color
wet sand 1500
paint
wet sand 1500 (more if you can get it)
paint
paint
clear if necessary
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
I didn't and I wouldn't between color coats. I can see where you might do it between color and clear coats but I'm not sure if its a good idea or not. I sprayed on a couple light coats of clear then said screw it cause all I had was the crappy Krylon stuff and it wasn't covering well at all. plus its track bodywork that's been down and messed up no less than 3 times, I don't care if its a 20ft paint job.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
Wirelessly posted (Instinct: TELECA-/2.0 (BREW 3.1.5; U; EN-US; SAMSUNG; SPH-M800; Teleca/Q05A/INT) MMP/2.0 Profile/MIDP-2.1 Configuration/CLDC-1.1)
Wet sanding between coats not only gives the new paint something better to stick to but improves the shine. if you use a gloss or hi gloss paint, the more you sand the better it will look. youll probably have to hit an auto paint store (robbins,pep boys,sanel) to find 1500+ sandpaper though
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
The highest I could find was 800 at autozone. When you wetsand I'm assuming you just spray with water first?
Depending on how perfect you want your paint to look (ignoring the fresh paint curse for the moment), these are cushioned fine abrasive sanding cloths that will produce a mirror shine if you want to go that far, on either the color coat or clearcoat.
Available in 1500 through 12000 grit (not a typo, the 12000 feels like a baby's bottom, but is still abrasive). They will even turn bad orange peel into an amazing finish if you're patient. Use them after all the paint is on and dried.
Seeing the surface getting better and better is addictive. I use a liquid polish and then pure carnauba wax as the final step.
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'02 SV650 street|woods|race LRRS #128
you should be fine with the rustoleum. it is typically outdoor paint anyways. I used that to paint a bike like 6 years ago and it held up very well.
then i got sick of the white and painted the entire bike flat black... like it went through a flat black car wash. an hour before bike nights, i would usually go over it with a spray can instead of washing it to make it look fresh lol. Gotta love a rat bike
I'll vouch and say Chris's rattle can job on the R6 is holding up well as I have the bike now, only took it down the road er... "track" once though, see how it is after track season.
Like I said they say, nothing stops a party barge.
97' Ducati 900SS - Sometimes runs
Thanks everyone! Robbin's Auto paint guy said to make sure I got base coat paint, not a gloss if I am going to clear over it. Like some Dupli-Color base coat, which late model matching color generally is...
More sanding for now. Which means I will surely drop it this year...
a friend told me last year that in my previous attempt at painting my bike it looked like I sanded it with an axe. I said I'd probably drop or crash it anyway. which of course I did. but the lessons learned from that paint job are why the current paint job looks halfway decent.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
keep looking if you want to find it finer. i want to say i found some at pep boys but i can remember
leave the hose running on the surface your sanding, so that the water is constantly washing away what your sanding off. dont just get it wet and then sand, keep it wet by keeping the water flowing. i did a lot of this at my buddies custom shop in AZ.
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
Towers Auto has good paint supply products.
On the new paint curse, I'm a believer. Got my F4i all pretty and brought it to VIR only to have it fall off the rear stand and over onto the Boston Moto trailer. Thing was on that stand just fine for what musta been the better part of 3 hrs before it fell.
i didnt want to tell you because you were so upset but.....
i saw David touch it.
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
That bastard!!
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Funny, I know more about doing it right. My old racecar I epoxied, then shot in Dupont ChromaOne. And nearly died because I had no fresh air system, I had petit mal seizures from the isocyanate hardener. But damn that paint was durable.
It is rattle can technology that has me mystified.
Last edited by intergalactic; 03-25-10 at 09:03 PM.
Get the spray can with blue pin nozzle where the actual paint comes out of a little square pc that can be rotated.
REGULAR spray paint dissolves all layers under it. If you spray till "wet" look it will run on vertical surfaces. Spray until surface looks damp not wet, shine will develop in a couple of minutes
I have had luck for gas resistance with 2 coats of MINWAX URETHANE very good clear will take gas (whipe off not sit)
practice on something