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Took mine out a few days ago and road great fits me perfectly except for the seat which is a little bit hard but all I can say is I’m having a blast with it
If anyone has a line on a cheap, registered DR-Z motard.. lmk
'02 Ducati 998, '08 Ducati HyperMotard 1100S, '14 Subaru XV Crosstrek
If you google DRZ, you’re told you should be able to pick one up for 3k. If you go by nesr, you’re told you should be able to pick one up for 3K
The last two years, I don’t see it. They seem to hold their value. What is the value for a motorcycle that can go both off and on road, and be post-apocalyptic reliable?
I’m frustrated. That’s all I know.
Not exactly "cheap" money, but cheaper than most, and way more potent than a stock one https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...4510293339817/
Craigslist now charges $5 to list a vehicle to weed out scammers. As a result, everyone uses FB Marketplace instead.
Like I said in your other post, no one uses Craigslist anymore.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...6114873234572/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...1438355128377/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...0158413055204/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9371532533411/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8156782855134/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...3447715779761/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9410931913894/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...5315579953695/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...9281386837678/
Bunch more at the ~$3500 price point that you could probably get for $3k.
Last edited by MattR302; 04-10-20 at 08:29 AM.
I have to say, I rode a nicely modded DRZ in Guatemala and I left feeling that there IS a great use for these things. Bombing around in the third world is it! The thing felt mighty compared to the typical 250 playbike motors in most bikes there, and the DRZ was equally at home ripping the twisties or the sacked out cobblestone and dirt roads. And it could take the punishment for years on end.
'02 Ducati 998, '08 Ducati HyperMotard 1100S, '14 Subaru XV Crosstrek
There’s an S version, which is the standard dual sport and motard with the softer cams and cv carb.
The E version is the offroad version that has the hotter cam and a regular carb, although I can’t remember if it’s a pumper or not out the box.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
The DRZ400E is "dirt only" from the factory. Pumper carb (FCR39), hotter cams, less weight (no lights, plastic tank, smaller subframe, no passenger pegs, etc).
The DRZ400S is factory plated dual sport. CV carb, full lights, metal tank, beefier subframe for passenger and luggage, etc
The DRZ400SM has the carb/cams/tank/subframe from the S, but inverted forks with the SM tires.
Pumper carb onto the S and SM models are a common swap.
Last edited by MattR302; 04-10-20 at 09:11 AM.
-E has lights. They are just minimal. Think "enduro" lights.
-S is full DOT light kit with high-low headlamp.
The rest of Matt's summary is correct IMO.
I think the -E has a smaller stator as well. Issue if you try to add high-beams and such. Otherwise good.
Early DRZ's (MY2000 & 01) had lesser forks. '02+ (I think) have cartridges even though they are right-side up. All -SMs have up-side-down cartridges.
I'd be filtering out anything pre '02.
I think there was an early non-E model as well that was kick only. I'm not sure if that just wasn't offered in the US at all though. I've never seen one.
Also search Kawasaki KLX-400S and KLX-400SR. Exactly the same bike, manufactured by Suzuki and sold as a Kawi with green plastics. KLX-400S => DRZ-400E. KLX-SR => DRZ-S.
they started charging $5 for a 30 day ad for bikes and rvs...this started nov 15 2019...so like was said everyone has gone to FB marketplace
does anyone know what the best groups to sell on FB marketplace are?...trying to sell my dad's hd heritage
bike: none but i have a seafoam green 125cc scooter
Point37s Garage Sale Thread
Bike has been all I wanted except highway rides but still managed to hit 103.
Changed levers and grips. Been a fun bike so far for city , work commute
Last edited by zxme; 07-26-20 at 12:31 PM.
Went for a little ride today probably the last time I will be riding until spring, cleaned the chain & gave the bike a good wipe down with Honda polish, sucked all the gas out and put in two cans of trufuel and hooked up to a battery tender.
Bike has been great so far and running even better after the JD jet kIt
Very simple I bought the Japanese screwdriver specifically made for those bowl screws which did not work good thing the jet kit comes with new Allen screws.
I did the 3 x 3 mod also and finished it up with vacuum line for a clean look.
The simplest way is to remove the rear subframe top bolt, I can actually send you a picture if needed pull back the rear subframe and put a screwdriver in the hole that will give you a couple of inches which gives you an inch of play where the carb boot is and spray with silicone.
It definitely feels better more responsive and not as temperamental when starting it up in the morning with the choke
Having owned both a DRZ400S and a DR650, I can tell you that:
The DRZ wheelies better, and is better off road - but it still a pig.
The DR makes a much better (great!) street bike due to its wider ratio transmission and more comfortable ergo's.
The DR is designed to be easily be lowered (a lot).
The Achilles Heel of the DRZ is the counter-shaft bushing. Do NOT over-tighten the counter-shaft sprocket nut, or you will be splitting the cases. You can check for this by putting the bike on a stand, and ensuring that the rear wheel spins freely when in neutral - then check the CS sprocket nut to see if it is only finger tight. If it is - RUN AWAY.
The Achilles Heal of the big DR is blown 3rd gear sets - but my '96 was ultra reliable.