Stainless steel should not pit, right?

[AimlessMoto]

I bought a Remus Revolution can last year around this time, and after 1 year of riding, it's pitted. Badly.

I can't remove the pits with ANY polish/cleaner that I've found short of taking a brillo pad to it (which I will not do).

I'm currently in contact with the company I've bought it from seeking a warranty resolution, and they're talking with Remus for me...

Take a look... this shouldn't happen right?







Think I've got a good case for replacement?

[Stoneman]

Have you ever seen what RandyO does to stainless steel???

[Chippertheripper]

I use this stuff to shine stainless that been sitting on the ocean for months at a time. It works brilliantly with elbow grease:
http://www.flitz.com/p-31-flitz-polish-liquid.aspx

[DankDirtyBird]

It is steel and it will pit and rust, just at a much much slower pace hence the name "stain-less"

Maybe that will be covered under warranty.

[DankDirtyBird]

To expand a little, since stainless steel is an alloy much like most aluminums, it will pit. There are variations of stainless that are designed to pit less, but nothing is perfect. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but chemistry is a bitch.

[Falko]

depends on the stainless. that is probably 200 series, so yes it will pit. If that were 316 marine grade, you wouldn't have that issue. You also wouldn't want the weight either.

[LiterR1]

depends on the stainless. that is probably 200 series, so yes it will pit. If that were 316 marine grade, you wouldn't have that issue. You also wouldn't want the weight either.

Stainless Steel grades 200 = In seawater immersion, the incubation time for these alloys is in the range of 1 to 3 months with some of the Nitronic grades having incubation times of up to 1 year.

Stainless Steel Grades 300 = subject to crevice corrosion and pitting corrosion. They have a range of incubation times in seawater ranging from essentially zero in the case of the free machining grades, such as Type 303, to 6 months to 1 year for the best alloys, such as Type 316

So in plain english Stain-"less" means it will eventually stain just a matter of when .
by the way that Tiger sure is fast

[Pigman]

Use some WhiteDiamond polish on it.....I have had way worse from sitting out in the elemts and it cam back like new...

Here......

http://www.whitediamondamerica.com/p...p/polish01.htm

[MikeyZ]

Use 0000 grade steel wool pads....

Then polish with an all-metal polish.

[butcher bergs]

If it is truly pitted nothing will get rid of it since the surface is essentially etched.

[scubasteve]

IMO, the part that is pitted is not stainless... It's aluminum... The bands on the end are stainless...

[Expat]

There are a lot of factors that can lead to stainless steel "rusting" It could be a number of things, most likely it is a poor grade but basically what causes it to rust is the carbon and iron content, be it in the actual material production or surface contamination.
The higher the grade, the less it will rust as the carbon and Iron content will be lower and a higher chrome and nickel content which increases corrosion resistance.
I sell stainless and corrosion resistant alloys to companies for petrochemical and oil rig production, they always use higher grades such as the 316 grade mentioned above but the cost increases proportionally to the nickel and chrome content which are the more expensive elements.
I would try having it polished to see if the "pitting" is surface related. If it won't come out, I would hound them for a replacement can. Be aware, you will get the same material in the new canso may end up with a similar problem.
Good luck!!

[AimlessMoto]

IMO, the part that is pitted is not stainless... It's aluminum... The bands on the end are stainless...

Steve, the whole can is stainless steel.

...

As for you other guys... yeah, did some reading on it... found a good polish I'm going to try out and see if it can buff... other than that... I think I may be SOL on the warranty. I figured, since it was almost a year, I might as well try before the warranty is up.


Also, no, the bike is always garaged, never ridden in the 'salt' or winter, really... And 9 times out of 10 I park it under a parking garage at work so the sun doesn't sit on it all day.


It's definitely NOT marine grade Stainless.

[Wanderer]

Actually this brings up a good question. Between Stainless, Alu, and Titanium - which would be best for corrosion resistance in the hot conditions of an exhaust?

[Expat]

A good grade of Stainless is best but you don't get the choice when buying a can, Titanium is good and Aluminum is poor unless anodized and even then it is the worst of the bunch.

[AimlessMoto]

Titanium is king for non-corrosion.

I think basically... the lesson I've learned, is no matter what... shit needs to be maintained. There's no such thing as perfect forever.

Oh well.

[scubasteve]

Steve, the whole can is stainless steel.

I've never seen stainless that looked like that, and got pitted like that from just sitting in a garage or occasionally getting wet...

Not saying it definately ISNT but it doesn't look like it is... It looks exactly how aluminum looks when it gets aged...

[RandyO]

I've never seen stainless that looked like that

you haven't seen the stainless exaust I have on my SV have you

Have you ever seen what RandyO does to stainless steel???

[ChicknStripEatr]

That's the aluminum outer coating oxidizing that does that. Same thing happens to my D&D if I don't take care of it.

Here's the best fix I know of. Polishing compound rubbed with 000 steel wool. hand buff with a terry cloth towel. then mothers aluminum polish, hand rub the polish in with a cloth, it'll turn black, that's how you know it's working, then remove it with a high speed buffing wheel (like a grinder with a buffing pad on it, a cheapo car buffer from the hardware store does not have enough RPM's). to clean off excess and smudges, spray with windex and wipe down with paper towel. the thing will look out of the box brand new, trust me. Mothers aluminum polish twice a year will prevent that from happening.



side note: stay clear of the nameplate on the pipe, the buffer will take the paint off.

[AimlessMoto]

That's the aluminum outer coating oxidizing that does that. Same thing happens to my D&D if I don't take care of it.

Here's the best fix I know of. Polishing compound rubbed with 000 steel wool. hand buff with a terry cloth towel. then mothers aluminum polish, hand rub the polish in with a cloth, it'll turn black, that's how you know it's working, then remove it with a high speed buffing wheel (like a grinder with a buffing pad on it, a cheapo car buffer from the hardware store does not have enough RPM's). to clean off excess and smudges, spray with windex and wipe down with paper towel. the thing will look out of the box brand new, trust me. Mothers aluminum polish twice a year will prevent that from happening.



side note: stay clear of the nameplate on the pipe, the buffer will take the paint off.

This is the exact route I'm taking. Just bought the steel wool and a new pad for my buffer.

I'm thinking of just taping over the name badge for oopsies... the thing is kind of an awkward shape.

Thanks.

[AimlessMoto]

Well... about 2 hours later...

1. Wash.
2. Brillo pad lightly.
3. Wash.
4. Fitz Polish
5. Eagle 1 NeverDull batting
6. Wipe down w/micro fiber cloth.





Didn't use the electric buffer... all elbow grease. I think, when I go to do the back of the pipe... (which is heinous)... I'll pull out the big guns...

But seemed to work well! Still a little bit of pitting at the top, but not as bad as Pic1-3!!!

I'm kinda proud of myself ! Thanks for all the help guys!!!

[Tricklidz]

that's why it's called "stain-less" and not "stain-free"! BTW- nice job!!

[Tricklidz]

sometimes it takes a lot of rubbin'
http://lidzduc.blogspot.com/search?u...&max-results=7