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Thinking about putting motard wheels/tires on my Husky 701 Enduro, and bringing it to some track days. What else would you do to it? 4.25" vs. 5" rear? Steering damper?
-Jared
ZX-4RR, R1200GSW, 701 E/SM, Hyperstrada 821 (FS!)
Rick Breen raced one, he'd be a good place to start for some suggestions?
Turbo or big bore kit.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2016 BMW S1000XR
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
I didn't think there was another bookend beyond "full race prep" and "nothing," but somehow Clayton managed to find it.
-Jared
ZX-4RR, R1200GSW, 701 E/SM, Hyperstrada 821 (FS!)
"Sportsman" style?
If it helps, I now own 4.25 and 5" rears for my WR450F conversion. I can't tell the difference when riding, only when trying to fit that 5" rear doing swaps. The 5" is a huge pain in the ass and required I disassemble the chain guide, swear profusely, sacrafice a virgin, and break out the BFH. Done over again I'd have two 4.25" wheels.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
The 17" rear wheel on the factory 701SM is a 5.00" width so that shouldn't be any cause for concern.
Like Paul said nothing is not a bad option.
If you're going with 17" wheels you could see if there is a spacer available for the front caliper to allow you to run a larger diameter front rotor. Maybe some different brake pads. Other than that it should be a fun ride as it sits. If it ever becomes a track dedicated toy then the suspension and brakes would come into play but to get out there and have fun, grip it and rip it.
As I said, if it helps.
I assumed we were talking about enduro -> SM conversion with 17's at both ends.
Yep, enduro->SM conversion with 17's on both ends. The stock front rotor on the Enduro is 300mm, and feels *very* effective on the street with the 21" front knobby. Obviously no idea how it'll feel with a sticky 17 hauling down from 100mph, but my gut says the front fork will cause more puckering / confidence-loss than the brakes.
-Jared
ZX-4RR, R1200GSW, 701 E/SM, Hyperstrada 821 (FS!)
I was able to overpower the ~260mm front on my WR easily. It was susceptible to fade in a way I hadn't experienced on a motorcycle. 300mm is likely better. Probably worth a shot before throwing money at it.
Aside from hoops and rubber, hi temp brake fluid up front would be my only other want for the first out.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
I would bet that the 300mm rotor will be ok for track days. Was merely a suggestion.
I am used to motards with bigger rotors and bigger calipers. Have a couple '06 Husqvarna SM510R and a '17 Husqvarna 701 SM in the stable that all have big Brembo calipers and big rotors. I like brakes.
LRRS/CCS Expert #820 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / GMD Computrack /
Gas just Gas. I'm not trying to be funny, show up and ride it. That's the best part of a motard. If the chain rubs who cares anyway it makes 0% difference, you can't get a tard that low where it would hurt. Smaller tires are better on those bikes anyway. It has less mass and turns quicker. It's all torque not HP.
On the flip side, I raced at NHMS one weekend on my WR265ZD on a bone stock, 240mm fixed rotor with a stock caliper setup. Damn thing survived and did OK without noticeable fade but the rotor turned into a salad bowl when I took it off the wheel.![]()
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Like others have said just ride it. You may have desire for a stronger front brake at some point but I bet it is super fun as is. Scope creep will become a problem if you are OCD enough.
When I first got my motard I figured it would function off road well enough. It does and fire roads are a blast but in any real rough conditions it is simply way too stiff. Enduro and track suspensions are two different animals. Mine shines on the street/track but suffers off road. I wouldn't be surprised if yours was the opposite.
None of that should stop you from having fun though.
I somehow managed to thread the needle with my old DRZ. I had it sprung stiff enough to hold up to a pretty decent pace on pavement, yet not suck in the woods. I even took it out on an MX course and found I could jump it without dying. I was pretty impressed. Somehow felt a little more confident running around my little backyard practice track on that thing than I did my KTM 200 "woods" bike. And I like to think I ran it pretty hard at track days and the like.
The most annoying thing for me switching genres was gearing. Geared for a track day was clutch city in the woods. Geared for the woods was dangerously slow on pavement. Easy swaps were thwarted by chain length. I finally found a combination that let me use the same chain and front sprocket, but was a compromise for both kinds of riding.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
Thanks guys. Any suggestions for gearing appropriate for Loudon / Canaan?
-Jared
ZX-4RR, R1200GSW, 701 E/SM, Hyperstrada 821 (FS!)