Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gadget
You mentioned higher rate springs...
if you don't mind me asking, how much do you weigh and what rate are the springs?
I read somewhere that the Tigers are factory set to someone that weighs between 160 and 180.
In a Vanson suit, helmet and boots I weigh 260.
The front is 1.0 mm/kg, don't know what the rear is without looking at the paperwork.
The 2012 Tiger 1050 has a rear spring more than 30% stiffer than the stocker, don't know how much they stiffened the front.
I found the stock front forks to be OK, the rear shock poor.
Now they're both awesome.
Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Garandman
For what size? Where did you buy it?
My Sprint has a 19mm front spindle, but the couplers come in many sizes. I bought mine at a hardware store back when I lived in Maine. It doesn't fit too tight, but since there isn't a lot of torque used on the spindle, it works fine.
Re: Triumph service options
So, i skipped ALOT of the replies, and this very well might have been said already, but my boss' '04 speed triple has an OBDII connector from the factory. He was able to hook up a Snap-on MODIS to it and get a LOT of good information from it just using Global ODBII capability. But, he was unable to do anything more that look at the PID lists. When it came time to actually service his bike (like reseting his throttle position sensor) he was forced to buy software. He went with Tuneboy...out of Australia i believe, and he seems very happy with it. I believe it was around $400 but he basically has factory capabilities with it, all from his laptop. Might be something worth looking into if you plan to be servicing this bike yourself. Hell, one trip to the dealer could easily cost you that. And, he said you could adjust basically anything in the ECM, so might be worth it anyways. Just something to throw out there if it hasnt been said already.
Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
LN600K5
When it came time to actually service his bike (like reseting his throttle position sensor) he was forced to buy software. He went with Tuneboy...out of Australia i believe, and he seems very happy with it. I believe it was around $400 but he basically has factory capabilities with it, all from his laptop.
I use TuneECU on my Sprint. It's a free program, very similar to TuneBoy. I connect to the bike using an OBD cable for a Volkswagen, which is under $20. http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/index.html
Actually, last weekend I synchronized the throttle bodies and uploaded a new tune. Sprint runs great now!
Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
G21forme
1.0 for 260? I put .95's on my zx6r and weigh 145 but I don't know anything about suspension.
I put 0.95's in my 'strom myself. I weigh in at about 230 lbs. Race Tech has a guide on their website.. can't figure out how to link to it though. It recommends 1.0's for me. The prevailing wisdom seems to be that it is okay to go a little softer on these 'adventure' bikes that theoretically have more travel.
Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
G21forme
1.0 for 260? I put .95's on my zx6r and weigh 145 but I don't know anything about suspension.
Is this a question?
With different forks, fork angles, and front end weighting, YMMV.
Re: Triumph service options
Re: Triumph service options
I have just GOT to think up a better-looking method of securing the rear shock reservoir to the bike that those fugly hose clamps! Come to think of it, when I had Peter do the rear shock on my Sprint RS, I immediately removed those and replaced them with industrial-strength heavy-duty black zip ties.
Other than that, very cool.
How does it ride now?
Re: Triumph service options
Already swapped them, just didn't get a pic.
It rides terrific!
Re: Triumph service options
That's one thing Peter isn't in touch with...aesthetics. He's so accustomed to working on clapped-out EX500's and wadded-up Gixxers that to him, those shiny hose clamps actually look GOOD. ;)
Re: Triumph service options
Do you know if I can replace the springs on the forks without breaking the seals ?
Tiger has those upside down ones and someone mentioned it to me that it may be possible.
Re: Triumph service options
Tada. Rode with the YB's down the coast to Marshfield for breakfast, really happy with the handling and ride.
http://dervish.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-97cmdJ8-L.jpg
Re: Triumph service options
Re: Triumph service options
Sew, I'm going to the TTD days tomorrow and have to secure the oil filter with a clamp and cable. The filter is well recessed at the bottom of the bike and it's not all that clear where to secure it. Anyone done this on a triple with the same oil filter location?
Re: Triumph service options
Wow, I guess that the rules for bike prep (and rider gear) at track days has changed significantly since I last did them 8 years ago. I'd never heard of an oil filter coming loose on the track or the street, so I must lead a sheltered bike life.
A few photos from different angles would help folks here offer up good suggestions. Do you have one of those wire plier/puller/twister tools? How close is the nearest bolt that you could drill through the head or replace with a drilled one?
Re: Triumph service options
I believe the general outlook is they just dont want you to be the 'one' who puts down oil all over the track. I believe they will pass you through tech without the oil clamp, and if they dont they should help you put one on. If your bike is in good mechanical and physical shape they wont even blink. The rule is so they cover the safety aspect...Im sure there are some fucked up bikes beong brought to a trackday...
Ive done trackdays with Tony's, Penguin and Bostonmoto....all without a clamp on my oil filter. Only once did anyone say anything. And after the bike was inspected a little more thoroughly, it was deemed ok. So dont super stress about it, if they make you do it, theres a 100 people there that will help you. :)
Re: Triumph service options
Done, I secured the safety wire to a bracket on the right side of the bike where there is clearance.
Started drilling the oil drain plug when the bit broke off in the hole. :eek:
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jwm2k3
//..Im sure there are some fucked up bikes beong brought to a trackday...
Ive done trackdays with Tony's, Penguin and Bostonmoto....all without a clamp on my oil filter. Only once did anyone say anything. And after the bike was inspected a little more thoroughly, it was deemed ok. So dont super stress about it, if they make you do it, theres a 100 people there that will help you. :)
Me too. I was at BoMo the day an oil fill plug came loose, four guys crashed, one got run over, and the track was closed for a while.
The TTD rules say:
Quote:
- OIL FILTERS: All "SPIN ON" type oil filters must have a HOSE CLAMP around it. A "spin on" filter is one that is outside of the motor (see photo below). ....
We require this because some people don't properly tighten their oil filters after changing. And the high RPM riding at the track can cause them to loosen and put oil all around the track (not to mention your back tire!). Once someone "oils" the track, it can close the track for many hours. :-(
Putting a hose clamp on cost virtually nothing and takes only a minute to do, so we now require it.
- If your oil filter is enclosed in the motor, then we urge you to wire the bolt holding it in, but it is not mandatory. But PLEASE make sure it is tightened properly.
Mine is outside the motor. Third bike I've done and time required was about 15 minutes total.
http://dervish.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-ZWXgtCT-L.jpg
Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Garandman
Started drilling the oil drain plug when the bit broke off in the hole. :eek:
Try this bit from Mcmaster-Carr:
3146A112
1/16", 1-7/8" L O'all, .5" Drill Depth
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/2437/=itw5a7
"Cobalt Steel Jobbers' Drill Bits for Shallow Holes
Short flutes make these bits ideal for drilling shallow holes. They are also more rigid and provide straighter drilling compared to our other jobbers' drill bits. All are made of cobalt steel with a black-oxide surface treatment for heat resistance. For use on alloy steel, stainless steel, hardened steel, nickel alloys, and titanium alloys. Bits have a 135° point angle that produces small chips to prevent clogging. They also have a split point that keeps the bit centered without a pilot hole."
These work better than any I've tried in the past 50 years. Dip the bit in heavy oil often to cool it. The short flute means less chance of bending and breaking. The biggest chance of breaking the bit comes when breaking through to the other side, I've found.
HTH,
Kurt
Re: Triumph service options
Had a great time at the track days.
Put the bike back together for road use and the rear blinker doesn't work. Then I discover that the rear brake light works with the foot brake but not the hand brake. Check the bulb - bulb is good. Check the fuses - ditto.:fuming:
Re: Triumph service options
I had the same problem once. After a low-side on new tires I had to replace the entire rear fender/battery underseat box piece of plastic. That required removing the rear turn signals, and when I plugged them back in I failed to notice that the wires had offsetting staggered lengths. I had a 50% chance of swapping the wires and managed to do exactly that, signals didn't work right.
Once I took it apart again I noticed what I did, fixed it, all worked as they were supposed to. I hope it as simple as switching leads for you.
Re: Triumph service options
Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Garandman
How much did this set-up cost you?
Feel free to PM me...
Re: Triumph service options
Just going with MSRP:
Shock is $1,195.
Penske Fork Kit is $315.
Front spring is $115.
Add labor for assembly and dis-assembly, and some misc. parts like bushings and fork oil.
YMMV as I'm not sure of the prices for other bikes: the SV650 parts were less.
Re: Triumph service options
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SprintPoser
I had the same problem once. After a low-side on new tires I had to replace the entire rear fender/battery underseat box piece of plastic. That required removing the rear turn signals, and when I plugged them back in I failed to notice that the wires had offsetting staggered lengths. I had a 50% chance of swapping the wires and managed to do exactly that, signals didn't work right.
Once I took it apart again I noticed what I did, fixed it, all worked as they were supposed to. I hope it as simple as switching leads for you.
And that was more or less the problem: one of the connector pigtails had pulled loose, probably when I pulled on the connector to loosen it.
Brake light still isn't working with front brake, working on that now.