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Looks like I may be taking home a new monster 796. Need some help in the turning department tho. . .
One could purchase a kit with termi slip-ons, high flow air filter and a dedicated ECU and be done with it?
Or should I go the dyno tune route?
On previous bikes I've just found a map that matched the mods done to my bike and downloaded that. . .
I've always preferred a custom map to a 'tune in a can' but I also know lots of people who are quite pleased with the results of a DP ECU + Exhaust kit. Work the numbers, whole kit vs Exhaust + PC3 + Map, etc, see which route fits your budget and look and sound preferences best. I don't think you can go wrong either way.
Thanks for the input. Should I do proper break in before any of that?
I would, especially if you're going the custom mapped route. Right out of the crate is not the best time to subject your bike to an hour on the dyno. Give it a chance to break in and it won't produce anywhere NEAR as much heat when you put it up there.
I don't want to start "the break in" debate but I am curious about that as well. . .
If the Monster 796's low-down fueling is as bad as the Hyper 796, I would definitely get a custom tune done, and uncork the exhaust somehow.
I was very close to getting a Hyper 796 until I rode it. The fueling and throttle response is really bad at low speeds.
Right, but they don't get sat on the dyno for an hour plus, that's the key difference. It's one thing to take a fresh motor for a quick jaunt up to redline under load. It's another to have the load cell hold it at 8k RPM WFO while the sniffer takes it's sweet time getting a reading. A fresh, tight motor will produce a LOT more heat if it hasn't been broken in, leading to A) a slightly off Map, B) a higher bill due to having to wait longer between runs for the bike to cool down and C) excess wear and tear on the engine from running it that hard while tight.
pretty sure you'll want to go the DP ECU route 1st, with the stock ECU you'll be in closed loop (02 sensor) till around 4,500 RPMs, which would mean NO custom tuning till after 4,500.
good Duc information source
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/42-monster/
I don't believe that's true, PC3's include an O2 sensor defeat for Ducs equipped with them that I've had my hands into.
Something to consider: wouldn't you like to get to know you're new bike for a little bit before adding parts? This way you know just how much of an effect you're money had.
Id think that a wise choice. No need to rush it :-)
Not sure what ducati specifically requires but any other engine I've ever broken in I do 50% revs max using gracious throttle and varying speed. Lots of engine braking, running in all gears. Don't baby it but don't wind it right out either. The rings need pressure to seat properly and you can't get that with high revs or low throttle.
might be a repost but, awesome info on break in here.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I was told to avoid excessive engine braking as part of the initial Duc break in. (Same with my WR250 actually.)
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Agreed. I liked the 796, test rode one last year. Very steep steering angle I remember being right over the tyre. I was not as impressed with the power, thought it was okay but no quantum leap over the 650R at least in town. And the engine was green as well, so.....
Anyway congrats mate it is a swell looking rig, are you doing the same colour scheme as here?
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Last edited by KingCast 650R; 03-16-11 at 03:43 PM.