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Aight, so my bike's got 21k miles on it now w/o an adjustment. I THOUGHT I was gonna get it done before VIR but I finally got an email TODAY from the guy that WAS gonna do it & he finally confessed he can't get it done before VIR...
Any words of advice? Should I scramble to get it done? Should I not worry bout it too much & just keep it away from redline?
-Pete LRRS/CCS #81 - ECK Racing, TonysTrackDays
GMD Computrack Boston | Pine Motorparts/PBE Specialists | Phoenix Graphics | Woodcraft | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
The Garage: '03 Tuono | '06 SV650
ehh, i wouldnt worry. but if you desire to get it done before the "season" then get what you need together so when you get back you can get started. seriously... i wouldnt be concerned
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
My sprint was due for adj at 12,000 miles I finally brought it in at 15,000 and all the valves were within spec.
12 Vstrom 1000
09 KLR 650
09 Yamaha WR450F (street legal)
(hers)
13 Vstrom 650ADV
08 Yamaha WR250F(street legal )
09 KLR650
yeah... i've been taking the "ehh, I'm not gonna worry about it" approach for the last 6000 miles![]()
I still wanna get a bunch of other stuff done that's just as important... brakes, oil, chain, etc. That stuff i definitely want to get done before it goes on the track next weekend but I can do that during the week or Saturday since it won't be ridden that day. The valve adjustment was the only major thing that I had wanted to get done that I can't really do myself.
Full list of stuff i wanted done:
Valves
Plugs
Carb Synch & maybe needle shim
Brake Pads & fluid.
Oil & filter.
Water Wetter, engine ice or other race approved coolant.
and two things i noticed in my owners manual that I may wanna check are
Unitrack pivot/lube &
Steering Stem bearings/lube
Like I said... mostly stuff i can do myself.
-Pete LRRS/CCS #81 - ECK Racing, TonysTrackDays
GMD Computrack Boston | Pine Motorparts/PBE Specialists | Phoenix Graphics | Woodcraft | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
The Garage: '03 Tuono | '06 SV650
I may be wrong here, but don't you need to pull it apart, then take the measurements and then order the shims that you need to put the valves back where they should be?
It's all water under the bridge, and we do enter the next round-robin. Am I wrong?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by hessogood
[B]I may be wrong here, but don't you need to pull it apart, then take the measurements and then order the shims that you need to put the valves back where they should be? [
Yes, you need to pull the valve cover off and use a feeler gauge to check the clearances while turning the crank with a socket (pull off the ignition rotor cover to turn the crank).Originally posted by hessogood
I may be wrong here, but don't you need to pull it apart, then take the measurements and then order the shims that you need to put the valves back where they should be?
If the valves are out of spec you need to pull the camshafts (on the z6xr, where the shims are under a metal bucket and can't be pulled with the camshafts in), and either order new shims or find a dealer who's willing to "swap" your old shims for some of his own.
FYI, Nault's Windham has swapped shims with me in the past. Just bring your own micrometer as I found that their shim container was a bit mismatched.
When I checked the clearances on my zx6r at 8000 miles I found that most of my intake and all of my exhaust valves were too tight, this is common as the valve seats swell and tighten up the clearances, especially on the exhaust side where hot gasses run across the valves all day. Don't remember exactly how out of spec they were but there's a thread 2 years old in the paddock where I talk about them if you (Pete) want to dig them up.
Took me about 16 hours of work to do my first valve adjustment. Most of that was futzing around with the camshafts since I couldn't get them realigned, after doing it once I figure I could *probably* do it in 8-10. A good mechanic should be able to do them in 4-6 so I'm told. The valve check isn't hard, the hardest part is removing all the shit you need to get the valve cover off, but if you get in there and find your valves need adjustment where does that leave you?
Yup... the guy that was gonna do it for me was gonna do all that. he's got shims of all sizes & he just swaps em out... only charges for labor, but he can't get it done in time for VIR..... think maybe I should just tell Alex to keep the bike under 12k rpms or somethin.Originally posted by hessogood
I may be wrong here, but don't you need to pull it apart, then take the measurements and then order the shims that you need to put the valves back where they should be?![]()
-Pete LRRS/CCS #81 - ECK Racing, TonysTrackDays
GMD Computrack Boston | Pine Motorparts/PBE Specialists | Phoenix Graphics | Woodcraft | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
The Garage: '03 Tuono | '06 SV650
I think for a bike thats beat on the stock adjustment
period is to long.
If you can find a freindly machine shop you will find that all the new sizes will be smaller. This means your existing shims can be surface ground down to the new size. You should also find you can swap from on valve to another.
All the wear pounds the valves and seats into the heads and closes the adjustments
If the motor is beat then damage has been done. The biggest problem is when an exhaust valve is held up off the seat. The hot gases then act like a cutting torch and quickly really gouge the seat.
If you take a compression check when the motor is hot you will know if you have leakage at the valves.
Glen Beck is John the Baptist
You should probably wait until the last possible minute and then and not until then start to think about haviong your valves adjusted.Originally posted by OreoGaborio
Any words of advice? Should I scramble to get it done?
KB
Most of mine were out of wack when I did mine at 9000. You can ussually swap shims with a bike shop because Kawi puts half sizes in the bike from the Factory. Mechanics are ussually happy to take these cause they dont come in the shim kits they can buy.
I think if you check the manual you were supposed to do it at 7500 and then again 15000 later.
Problems that can occur from poorly adjusted valves:
* Poor running engine and low performance
* Failed smog testing (if this is a smog-legal street driven vehicle)
* Burnt exhaust valve(s)
* Broken valvetrain components (springs, pushrods, lifters, camshaft)
* Limited lifespan of valvetrain components
* Excessive valve guide and seat wear
* Blown up engine
* Lose an important Race!
* Empty Bank Account
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"You never see a motorcycle parked outside of a psychiatrists office"
21k miles without an adjustment? damn.
Just be lucky you don't have Ti valves I guess
I've done the shim swap thing too, just sometimes you have to go to the mechanics area for greater efficiency and as Honc. said take a mic with you.
I posted this in your last thread about shimming your valves (back in September). It is still an excellent deal! http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...threadid=18489
For anyone that reshims their valves on their own and are worried about quickly getting the correct size shim, this might be the kit for you: http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/shims/shimkits.htm
3 each of every size from 1.20mm to 3.5mm in 0.05mm increments. The kits are available in 9.48 and 7.48mm diameters. It is by far the best price I have ever come across for shims.
do it up is what i say ya kak git fecker
www.bostonmoto.com
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Heres a condom. I figured since youre acting like a dick, you should dress like one too.
pete check out zx6r.com or google ZX6r valve adjustment t, there is a really good step by step wiht pics on zx adjustment for a zx6r.
doesnt seem to hard.
hmmmm......