What's a good ramp to purchase?

[virtualbong]

I have compiled a nice list of things I need at Harbor Freight to finally get my bike onto the bed of my truck as well as securely strapping it down. I hope to have everything by this Saturday so that I can get ready to transport my bike down to Boston Moto to give them time to slowly install my new parts and be ready for the June track day. Out of my list below, what am I missing?

Note: I have already purchased a Canyon Dancer II so that's being shipped to me right now.

Motorcycle Wheel Chock:
On sale for $39:

5.75'x14-7/8" Tri-Fold Aluminum Ramp:
On sale for $99:

2 Piece Retractable Ratcheting Tie Down - 500lb:
$15.99:

Some questions I do have is for the installation of the wheel chock. I have a DuraLiner on my truck bed so would I be able to just screw down the wheel chock over this liner? Do I need any special self tapping screw, etc...?

Do I need any additional straps?

btw. I love Harbor Freight so far. I had to quickly purchase a low profile jack for my car (its lowered) to remove a cracked rim and the Danvers location had it in stock. The guy I spoke with there (Peter) told me that I can use his name at the counter and get a discount. Little did I know that the discount would be $40 off which then allowed me to get the 2 year warranty on it through them. All together, it cost me only $73 for a low profile jack plus 2 year full warranty!

[keeena]

The wheel chock can probably be bolted in over/thru the bed liner. You should to use bolts w/ a good sized washer or metal plate on the underside of the bed. Check where you are drilling - don't want to hit anything important like brake/electrical/gas.

I think the consensus is you don't *need* add'l straps. If i was using cheap ass straps like those, I would use 2 pair. But since you're trying to do this on the cheap, 1 pair should be OK.

[CBR929RE]

and make sure that chock has enough clearance on the rotors

[virtualbong]

The wheel chock can probably be bolted in over/thru the bed liner. You should to use bolts w/ a good sized washer or metal plate on the underside of the bed. Check where you are drilling - don't want to hit anything important like brake/electrical/gas.

I think the consensus is you don't *need* add'l straps. If i was using cheap ass straps like those, I would use 2 pair. But since you're trying to do this on the cheap, 1 pair should be OK.

They are only $15.99...so a 2nd set wouldn't hurt the budget, hahaha.

They are rated for 500 lbs. which I thought would be enough and what would you consider non-cheap ratchets?

[Paul_E_D]

What you don't NEED is the chock. 4 tie downs in a pickup bed and that thing ain't moving. You can put a board in front of the tire to prevent denting your cab in a quick stop.

I know these guys are suggesting that wide ramp, but much more important IMO is an arched ramp. Its east to step up on a milk crate, but it sucks to drag the lowers of your bike on the tailgate everytime you load/unload. My .02

[virtualbong]

What you don't NEED is the chock. 4 tie downs in a pickup bed and that thing ain't moving. You can put a board in front of the tire to prevent denting your cab in a quick stop.

I know these guys are suggesting that wide ramp, but much more important IMO is an arched ramp. Its east to step up on a milk crate, but it sucks to drag the lowers of your bike on the tailgate everytime you load/unload. My .02

True...the chock is not needed but since it's under $50 to purchase one and it will help make the strap down process easier then I don't mind forking cash over for it as long as I can install it myself.

I see your point but that depends on how high your bed is right? I have a Ranger and I feel like the bed is not that high off the ground which would help prevent the lower from scraping every time. I am going to ask them if they can let me try out the ramp at their store to see how high it is. I am leaning towards tri-fold for the secure feeling so that I can ride the bike up and plant my feet on both sides or walk it up.

[Paul_E_D]

I have a ranger too. It's plenty high to make the arch worth it. FYI, you cannot plant your feet on the ramp while riding up it. As soon as your front tire goes up an inch or two, the ramp is out of reach to your feet. Riding up is not a good choice. back to walking up, it's actually easier to step up on a crate than walk up a ramp full of holes...

Of course, you can make anything work, but those are my thoughts after 10 years of trailering and trucking bikes more than once a month...

[The Snowman]

To make it easier to load/unload, try and put the back wheels of your truck in a lower spot than the front. It brings the tailgate down.

I learned this using Eric's high-bedded Dodge truck last year.

[virtualbong]

I have a ranger too. It's plenty high to make the arch worth it. FYI, you cannot plant your feet on the ramp while riding up it. As soon as your front tire goes up an inch or two, the ramp is out of reach to your feet. Riding up is not a good choice. back to walking up, it's actually easier to step up on a crate than walk up a ramp full of holes...

Of course, you can make anything work, but those are my thoughts after 10 years of trailering and trucking bikes more than once a month...

I like your points and will definitely take a look at the arch one this Saturday. So do you use just one? So you basically just walk the bike up the ramp (or give it a little throttle to make it go up easier and stand on a box or something?

[virtualbong]

To make it easier to load/unload, try and put the back wheels of your truck in a lower spot than the front. It brings the tailgate down.

I learned this using Eric's high-bedded Dodge truck last year.

I will definitely do that. As you enter my street, it has a slight slope down so I will park my truck down the street to give me some height.

[Paul_E_D]

I like your points and will definitely take a look at the arch one this Saturday. So do you use just one? So you basically just walk the bike up the ramp (or give it a little throttle to make it go up easier and stand on a box or something?

I just push it up with a little speed on the approach, step up on a crate, and into the bed without hesitation. I don't use the motor to assist but if you do, make sure to attach the ramp to the truck somehow. Otherwise you'll spit the ramp out the back. embarrassing!

[virtualbong]

I just push it up with a little speed on the approach, step up on a crate, and into the bed without hesitation. I don't use the motor to assist but if you do, make sure to attach the ramp to the truck somehow. Otherwise you'll spit the ramp out the back. embarrassing!

Knowing my clumsy ass that would actually happen! hahaha.

[The Snowman]

I will definitely do that. As you enter my street, it has a slight slope down so I will park my truck down the street to give me some height.

If it's on a hill, that may not make a difference. The rear wheels need to be in something like a hole or drop in the pavement. (or the front wheels up on a curb)

[keeena]

They are only $15.99...so a 2nd set wouldn't hurt the budget, hahaha.

They are rated for 500 lbs. which I thought would be enough and what would you consider non-cheap ratchets?

You are right...they are technically enough. Its just my opinion that bare minimum isn't enough. I don't mean to bust your balls. I know there is a $ trade off, and that tradeoff is different for everybody. Just offering my 2-cents. Already mentioned snap-hooks...those can give you margin. They won't fall off when slack and also means you don't have to jack the shit out of the strap (thus not totally compressing suspension...which could be bad for fork seals).

So something like this is what i would recommend: Link. Its what I have, only $7 more per pair than yours and a HELL of a lot stouter. HD used to carry these so check them out.

[keeena]

Oh one more thing: there's a way you can modify them to work in REALLY short distances (not the soft loop thing in the pic). Very useful in tight places...ask anyone who's seen my setup. Catch me at a TD sometime and I'll show ya.

[Eddie]

Man...I'm so pissed. As Irony would have it, yesterday I took my bike out to spray the dust off of it. I settled the bike on a soft spot and it dropped smashing the side fairing and breaking the clutch lever and putting a crack on the left rearset. I immediatelly called my buddy who painted it and told him I'd bring the bike to him to fix today.

I was loading the thing into my trailer this morning using this ramp. I already had the front wheel on the trailer when I gave it some gas and it spun the rear wheel and it slid off of the ramp and smashed my lowers.

Sucks big time.

Nonetheless, I will either replace those narrow ramps with a trifold one or bolt them together so I have more room to work with next time. Perhaps I'll consider not trying to load by myself next time.

[Eddie]

Here are pictures of the side damage and the trailer setup. I was to pissed this morning so I did not bother taking a picture of the smashed lowers.

[CBR929RE]

Here are pictures of the side damage and the trailer setup. I was to pissed this morning so I did not bother taking a picture of the smashed lowers.

fuuuuck leave it that way. As one of the latest victims of pavements strong magnetic attraction to nice paint I'd say you should be fine to ride it as so.

[tls25rs]

True...the chock is not needed but since it's under $50 to purchase one and it will help make the strap down process easier then I don't mind forking cash over for it as long as I can install it myself.

Keeping your comment in mind.........................Seeing as a set of factory rotors cost between $600-750 and aftermarkets are in the $300-400 range spending $50 on a wheel chock that could potentially bend one or both of my expensive rotors would not be something I am interested in. Better to just butt the front wheel against the back of the bed or make a board, as was suggested elsewhere, with a vertical board on either side of the front tire to do the same thing the chock would do.

Someone who has seen that type chock bend rotors before

[Eddie]

fuuuuck leave it that way. As one of the latest victims of pavements strong magnetic attraction to nice paint I'd say you should be fine to ride it as so.

I know...I know...it is already at my buddies shop who will fix it at a nominal fee/favor exchange. After this, I won't fix the bodywork anymore. How about you? How did you make out with your bike?