Woodcraft rearset questions

[stanga5o]

Hi guys,

I have a 2006 SV650s (with LSL superbike bar kit) that I've been upgrading since I got it 1.5 years ago.

I'm considering getting the Woodcraft rearsets, but I'm unsure of the position and feel.

1. Does anyone have an SV650 with Woodcraft rearsets (preferably an S model with handlebars or an N model) that I could take for a quick ride? I would be showing up on my bike (which I would glady let you ride, in return), I'd promise to be extra careful, and abide by the "you break it, you buy it" policy. No worries if not, it's hard to trust somebody with your baby, I know! I'm just trying to determine if I like the feel and whether it's worth the ~$300 investment.

2. Do the rearsets for this model include the 6 way adjustable pegs and pedals?

3. Have you had a hard time getting an inspection without the rear brake light switch? I'd rather not have to rig something up or buy the inline pressure switch (?)...

I'm located just outside Boston, MA, but I'm willing to travel.

Thanks for any feedback, guys!

[mzdagrl]

Hi guys,

I have a 2006 SV650s (with LSL superbike bar kit) that I've been upgrading since I got it 1.5 years ago.

I'm considering getting the Woodcraft rearsets, but I'm unsure of the position and feel.

1. Does anyone have an SV650 with Woodcraft rearsets (preferably an S model with handlebars or an N model) that I could take for a quick ride? I would be showing up on my bike (which I would glady let you ride, in return), I'd promise to be extra careful, and abide by the "you break it, you buy it" policy. No worries if not, it's hard to trust somebody with your baby, I know! I'm just trying to determine if I like the feel and whether it's worth the ~$300 investment.

2. Do the rearsets for this model include the 6 way adjustable pegs and pedals?

3. Have you had a hard time getting an inspection without the rear brake light switch? I'd rather not have to rig something up or buy the inline pressure switch (?)...

I'm located just outside Boston, MA, but I'm willing to travel.

Thanks for any feedback, guys!

I do not have the kit on my own SV, but I can address #2 and #3 for you:

#2 - The kit for this model are non-eccentric, so they are not the 6-way adjustable pegs. We have found that the position they are located is the most comfortable for the majority of riders.

#3 - Without a rear brake light switch, your rear brake light will not work, so your chances of getting an inspection pass is very close to 0 (ETA, not sure about MA, but that is the case in NH). Woodcraft does have a brake light pressure switch available for $20, which is peanuts in the grand scheme of things.
Pressure Switch

[Jim]

I'm not sure MA requires front and rear brake lights to pass inspection, but it's good to just get it done anyways

[CBR929RE]

I'm not sure MA requires front and rear brake lights to pass inspection, but it's good to just get it done anyways

yes they do

[Chippertheripper]

I have the described bike in question. Whatchu need?

[stanga5o]

I do not have the kit on my own SV, but I can address #2 and #3 for you:

#2 - The kit for this model are non-eccentric, so they are not the 6-way adjustable pegs. We have found that the position they are located is the most comfortable for the majority of riders.

#3 - Without a rear brake light switch, your rear brake light will not work, so your chances of getting an inspection pass is very close to 0 (ETA, not sure about MA, but that is the case in NH). Woodcraft does have a brake light pressure switch available for $20, which is peanuts in the grand scheme of things.
Pressure Switch

2. Thanks for the info! I assumed they weren't adjustable since I never heard of any of the SV folks mention it.

3. Yea, I just wasn't sure if most places checked front and rear. Since rearsets seem to be such a common mod (and from what I gather, many people do not add the switch), I thought maybe it wasn't strictly enforced. Anyway, I'll just buy the switch if it's only another $20; didn't expect it to be that inexpensive! How does this switch work (inline with banjo bolt?)?

[stanga5o]

CBR929: Thanks for confirming. I'll plan to install the switch if I end up going with the rearsets.

[stanga5o]

I have the described bike in question. Whatchu need?

I just want to take it for a quick ride to see if the Woodcraft rearsets position and feel work for me. Let me know if you'd be willing to meet up and we'll go from there. Thanks.

I like the idea of the .75" back since I always feel like my feet are ahead of me and I tend to move back in the seat when in a tuck on the highway (I expect I'll still have to with the WC, but maybe not as much). I'm more worried about the .75" rise since my legs are fairly long (I'm 5'11") and it seems the SV already has a pretty cramped riding position. I just don't want to have my knees start bothering me since this will be a worse trade-off than I have now.

I also want to feel the grip and feedback they provide compared to the stock pivoting/rubber style. I tend more towards a direct feel with the bike, but if there's a lot more vibration then I'm not sure I'd like that. Oh, and I want to feel the lever actuation (smoothness and tightness), but I expect it to be similar to stock since they seem to use the same design.

[stanga5o]

Also, I'd consider riser plates to adjust the WC rearsets position if they don't feel right to me, but I'd prefer not to use them so I can maintain the existing width. It's also one other thing that I'd have to buy and it makes the rearset purchase less enticing. Thus, the reason I'd like to test ride them first.

[mzdagrl]

3. Yea, I just wasn't sure if most places checked front and rear. Since rearsets seem to be such a common mod (and from what I gather, many people do not add the switch), I thought maybe it wasn't strictly enforced. Anyway, I'll just buy the switch if it's only another $20; didn't expect it to be that inexpensive! How does this switch work (inline with banjo bolt?)?

It actually replaces your stock banjo bolt. It is a pressure switch, that, when you apply the brakes, closes the circuit.

[Jim]

just be warned that she will not write personalized notes on your invoice

[jasnmar]

Just because she won't write personalized notes on your invoice, Jim, doesn't mean she won't write them on mine .

[stanga5o]

It actually replaces your stock banjo bolt. It is a pressure switch, that, when you apply the brakes, closes the circuit.

Thank again for the help. Seems to me that installing the switch could coincide with changing my rear brake pads (which I'm planning to do soon anyway).

The bigger question for me, since I'll already have the line apart: Should I upgrade to stainless? I've heard that a stainless brake line on the rear isn't quite as noticeable as on the front (which I already have). Sorry, I'm getting off topic...

[jwm2k3]

Dude, just get them. You will love them.

[reiobard]

Sorry, I'm getting off topic...

did you just appologize for getting off topic in your own thread?

also, rear brake lines aren't anywhere near as noticable as the fronts, but more durable... if you have it apart anyway, why not just upgrade and be done with it.

[jwm2k3]

Wait a sec.....since when do SV's have rear brakes??

[Chippertheripper]

Yeah, forget the line. I'm way south, headed out of town (nyst) for the weekend.
I don't think the foot pos is all that different. Not any noticeable difference in vibes either.
Shifting/braking feel exactly the same too.

I'm near New Bedford.

[OreoGaborio]

Skip the rear SS line unless it comes for free. I've never heard anyone say "gee, I wish my rear brake pedal was stiffer & locked up the rear tire quicker"


I'd let you ride my SV with woodcraft rearsets, but it's not exactly stock & probably wouldn't give you a good idea of how your bike would feel. It's also got an '03 subframe which raises the seat so the seat to footpeg distance is probably close to what you have now.

[mzdagrl]

Wait a sec.....since when do SV's have rear brakes??

Rear? Since when did they have brakes!?!?

[Sheppo]

Correction - In Ma. you only need either the front lever or the back lever to illuminate the brake light. It is a misconception you need both. It's not a bad idea from a safety point of view, but it is not mandatory.

[Jim]

I'm not sure MA requires front and rear brake lights to pass inspection, but it's good to just get it done anyways

yes they do

Correction - In Ma. you only need either the front lever or the back lever to illuminate the brake light. It is a misconception you need both. It's not a bad idea from a safety point of view, but it is not mandatory.

i cant find the picture from my old tail, but SUCK IT BRETT

[stanga5o]

OK, seems to me that I just need to buy them and figure out if I like them or not. I realize .75" up/back isn't a huge difference, but I know small changes in position (pegs, bar, seat) can be noticeable.

The only way I'd realistically upgrade the rear line to stainless is if I've run out of more functional improvements and have extra money to burn. I don't want the rear brakes to be touchy, but juts a little firmer without easily locking them up. I might try bleeding them with the caliper held above the master (a recent thread on SVRider indicated this helps).

Interesting on the conflicting replies on legality of rear brake light switch. I downloaded the MA annual safety inspection document (540 CMR 4.00) so I'll take a look at that.

[nhbubba]

One strong downside for fixed rearsets on a street bike is that it becomes a (very) hard part. If you touch the peg down, it will probably lift the rear tire and result in a crash. Meanwhile with hinged stock pegs you can touch them down and have them move-scraping feeler-and live to tell about it.

I agree that braided rear lines are a waste of time and money.

[stanga5o]

One strong downside for fixed rearsets on a street bike is that it becomes a (very) hard part. If you touch the peg down, it will probably lift the rear tire and result in a crash. Meanwhile with hinged stock pegs you can touch them down and have them move-scraping feeler-and live to tell about it.

I agree that braided rear lines are a waste of time and money.

Have that many people really lowsided on the street because of this? I've never even hit the stock peg feelers and the Woodcrafts would give me even more clearance (unless they're much wider). I figured if they are meant for racing where you're using every bit of your tire then they should be ok for me since I can't even use all my tire on the street. Thanks for the input, though.

[nhbubba]

I've not recorded and stats on this subject. I've been busy riding.
But I have set down my peg down many times. Sometimes pretty hard. Yes, I am confident I would have gone down in at least a few of those cases.

YMMV, obviously.