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Turns 10 and 11

  1. #1
    1/8 of a liter is plenty SilverDragon's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    So I believe my slowest part of the track to be turns 10 and 11. I feel fine in T9, but I slow too much and don't drive hard enough out of 10. Once I'm headed toward 11, I roll off WAY early, well before the first cone on the left. I realize that I'm doing it, so its only a matter of time before I address it. I also realize that other peoples' markers won't necessarily help me. In the dry, Celso (NV 801 RS125) says he doesnt let off until the cone, and starts braking after the cone.

    Paul, I know this will be an extreme contrast for me, but where do you roll off/brake/downshift for 11? I am downshifting into 1st between the 1st(left) and 2nd (right) cones, and I think I can stay in 2nd if I grow some balls, then down shift before 11a.

    I think I can also take 10 without a downshift from 9. I keep catching people in 9, but my lack of skill on the rest of the back 1/4 track is frustrating.

    Any tips from anybody will be helpful. I am just trying to learn.

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    Neal Mulcahy
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  2. #2
    Posting Freak senecak19's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    I probably can't help you much seeing I'm on a 600. But I drive pretty hard through 10 into 11. I feel its where I'm strongest on the track (which explains why I hated the tight 10). I'm on the gas on my 600 coming down nine through 10 and hard into 11. No brakes!

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Rick Lee's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    NO BRAKES into 11?!?!?!?!?!

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    Rick Lee
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  4. #4
    Soul Rider Paul_E_D's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    My advice is to start with the fastest turns and work toward the slowest in terms of finding marks etc.

    That said, There's no need to downshift inbetween 9/10. Downshift once at the entrance to 9, flick it in, crack the throttle and hold it til you turn in for ten. roll off slightly, flick it into 10 and screw it on. accelerating well before the transition and reaching WOT after cresting the camber change.

    For markers in 11, there are cracks that cross the track as you approach 11. Start by holding it WOT to the first crack, then work your way up to the second crack and beyond. Don't worry about other people's marks. Just work out your own.

    That back section is the hardest part to learn. There's so much speed there, but all the visual cues are funky.

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  5. #5
    Soul Rider Paul_E_D's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    Senecak19, Do you have a roll off marker for 11? If so, it's probably 20-30 yards too soon! There is no way to enter 11 without brakes on a 600 if you are WOT out of 10. Look for those marks and start edging your roll off closer and closer to T11.

    An EX or a motard can maybe do it as the downshift will slow them a bit...

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  6. #6
    Posting Freak senecak19's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    Miscommunication. I was referring starting at the top of the hill... actually coming from the bowl... no brakes. I have to brake pretty hard into 11. Paul you are correct in that I am at WOT coming out of 10 until somewhere in 11. To be honest, I use the kink as an approximation as to where to start braking. After the little kink it seems I have just enough time to stand the bike up and brake hard.

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  7. #7
    1/8 of a liter is plenty SilverDragon's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    Thanks guys. I'll work on this in practice in a few weeks.

    I know there is a ton of time I can find just between 10 and 12. I felt good in the wet, though I was still a little bashful in heavy traffic - which sucks on a 125! lol. I had an advantage in the wet because my riding in the dry wasnt fast enough to need to change.. But I guess that means I'm relatively smooth at least.

    More time could be found in T8 for me as well, I have a hard time holding it at WOT over the crest.

    I was talking to the other 2 smokers about gearing.. I dont think I have the skill to carry quite enough corner speed for the gearing I've got now. (15/38) I might try a 39 or 40 next week, perhaps at my pace, I won't feel like I need to downshift here and there to get a drive.

    All I know is I'm already having a blast.

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    Neal Mulcahy
    LRRS/CCS #427 ECK-Racing 2009
    Pine Motorparts/PBE Specialists | Phoenix Graphics | Woodcraft | Moon Performance | Motorcycles of Manchester | BostonMoto-Pirelli

  8. #8
    Soul Rider Paul_E_D's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    15/39 offers the best compromise of drive and shift points. 38 is for when you hit the 17s.

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    Paul_E_D


  9. #9
    Posting Freak senecak19's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    Quick note... I was having that same problem over 8 too... lean way forward in 8 (heading into 9) and you'll keep the front end down enough to drive hard. That tid bit helped me out tremendously.

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  10. #10
    Posting Freak senecak19's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    Hey Paul... are you an advanced riding instructor in Westfield?

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  11. #11
    Lifer Ken C's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    It seems that turn 10/11 was the last place I got right when I was a novice. I found out that I can carry big speed into 11 if I trust the tires to stick as I trail brake into 11. Novices tend to brake too early and coast into 11.

    Oh, and Paul and I both teach the MSF courses in Westfield.

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  12. #12
    Soul Rider Paul_E_D's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    That's correct. I'm teaching two classes in Oct. but I think it's just the basic course.

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    Paul_E_D


  13. #13
    Posting Freak senecak19's Avatar
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    Turns 10 and 11

    Nice. Ken, sorry I don't know you. Paul, I took the advance course a few years ago and I believe you were my instructor.

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