CRF450 Build/Questions

[csmutty]

Anyone willing to help me safety wire the bike? Most of the bolts are already drilled, and this bike has been raced at Loudon, but it really doesn't seem as if enough has been drilled to pass tech. I have safety wire pliers, safety wire, a drill, I can buy whatever drill bits are necessary. Beer of your choice, pizza, whatever will be provided. No vice or drill press though. A lot of the bolts on the bike are drilled at an angle with only one hole in them, and I'm having some trouble wiring those.

My trailer hitch and trailer should be ready to go next weekend, so I could come to you most likely. I'm mechanically inclined, but I don't want to fail tech, and I don't want my bike to come apart on the track, and take anyone else or myself out, so I think asking for some help this first time is rational.

In other news, thanks Chip for the transponder. Smutty, radiators are on. The braces I have are for the OEM radiators though, so they don't fit with the wider fluidynes. Any chance you have those floating around?

Dude I just sold the rad guards on ebay this week. Timing FTL. And I still have all the bolts from my bike with holes in them. So let me know what bolts you need safety wired and I can grab them and mail them to you.

[JettaJayGLS]

Dude I just sold the rad guards on ebay this week. Timing FTL. And I still have all the bolts from my bike with holes in them. So let me know what bolts you need safety wired and I can grab them and mail them to you.

Ah, bummer. Well, if the bolts are just taking up space, I'll take em all...name your price, if I like it, I'll buy em. Do the rotor bolts need to be wired? I know the rulebook doesn't mention them, and the ones on my bike are not wired, but perhaps this is a best practice procedure? I only have 1 beringer front rotor, so If I have to rewire it everytime I switch from rains to slicks, this may cause some timing issues. I probably should just get another rotor I guess...Smutty, any chance you got a beringer rotor lying around? How about some 39t or 40t sprockets?

Next question. Chip, I got the transponder the other day, thanks a lot man! No where do I install this bad boy? I checked the rule book but didn't see any instruction, maybe I missed it? It says make sure it is installed properly according to section 19, and then section 19 never mentions it. And I'm assuming the tether/cotter pin on it is the appropriate safety wiring? Also, transponder number? Maybe its etched on there somewhere and I missed it, I honestly didn't even look.

[csmutty]

Ah, bummer. Well, if the bolts are just taking up space, I'll take em all...name your price, if I like it, I'll buy em. Do the rotor bolts need to be wired? I know the rulebook doesn't mention them, and the ones on my bike are not wired, but perhaps this is a best practice procedure? I only have 1 beringer front rotor, so If I have to rewire it everytime I switch from rains to slicks, this may cause some timing issues. I probably should just get another rotor I guess...Smutty, any chance you got a beringer rotor lying around? How about some 39t or 40t sprockets?

Next question. Chip, I got the transponder the other day, thanks a lot man! No where do I install this bad boy? I checked the rule book but didn't see any instruction, maybe I missed it? It says make sure it is installed properly according to section 19, and then section 19 never mentions it. And I'm assuming the tether/cotter pin on it is the appropriate safety wiring? Also, transponder number? Maybe its etched on there somewhere and I missed it, I honestly didn't even look.

I have the Beringer rotor but it's kinda trashed. You can try to rebuild it with that kit I gave you and see if it works. Otherwise I am throwing it in the scrap metal bin anyways. And no I never wired the rotor bolts, but I put loctite on them when I installed the rotor. And I think I have a 40T hanging around still. I will check when I am home tonight.

As for the transponder just put the mount on the front fork right behind the numberplate. And yes that tether is all you need. The number for mine is on the transponder, but I am sure they can scan it for you at registration or tech and tell you what the number is.

[JettaJayGLS]

I have the Beringer rotor but it's kinda trashed. You can try to rebuild it with that kit I gave you and see if it works. Otherwise I am throwing it in the scrap metal bin anyways. And no I never wired the rotor bolts, but I put loctite on them when I installed the rotor. And I think I have a 40T hanging around still. I will check when I am home tonight.

As for the transponder just put the mount on the front fork right behind the numberplate. And yes that tether is all you need. The number for mine is on the transponder, but I am sure they can scan it for you at registration or tech and tell you what the number is.

Hmm, alright. Well, let me know about the drilled bolts as well.

And here's a bit better picture, she may look the same, but she's coming together.

[CEO]

If you don't drill everything before the first race weekend I can help you Friday night, no big deal.

[JettaJayGLS]

Next round of questions...

Fuel. Smutty, we talked about this awhile back, but I forgot all that stuff. Was told the bike ran great on both race fuel and 93. I'll probably run the race fuel...any idea which one? I can always ask the previous owner, but I'd like to avoid doing that. Christian, I think you also mentioned spraying some wd-40 down the spark plug hole if she's going to sit with race fuel because it can be a bit corrosive?

Belly pan. I bought this:


How do I mount it to pass tech? Can I just use zip ties and safety wire the thing through those loops? The rise in the front of it is actually a bit more than it looks in the picture, so I think containment from the front of the motor will be pretty sufficient. I'm running front and rear spools as well, so for warmers, I'm just going to use two spool stands.

Also purchased a set of revit leathers since I've been in skinny mode lately as well as a new Suomy. Plan is to pick up a set of helds, and maybe a back protector this weekend at seacoast as I'm not the biggest fan of my A-stars bionic...but I've been saying that the past 2 months.

[Rambunctous]

Looks great. Use shell 93 and save. Buy it next door from the track. Its a requirement.

[csmutty]

Yeah use 93 from the gulf or the 91 from shell. Race gas is a waste of money with a stock motor.

[Rambunctous]

18.2 Fuel
18.2.1 All riders must use an approved spec fuel.
18.2.2 There are 2 locations that racers can purchase fuel off of NHMS property only the PREMIUM gas is approved; one is 91 Octane at the Shell station approximately 1 mile from NHMS to the South; the other is 93 Octane at the Gulf station approximately 1 mile to the South of the Speedway on Route 106.
18.2.3 There are 3 Sunoco fuels that will be for sale at NHMS prior to and during the events; Sunoco Supreme (112 Octane, Leaded); and Sunoco 260 GT (100 octane, Unleaded); and Sunoco 260 GTX (98 Octane, Unleaded).Sunoco 260 GTX is the same fuel that AMA uses.
18.2.4 There are 2 VP fuels approved and they will be available for sale at the race track during the events; VP C12 and VP Blaze 100.
18.2.5 Fines may be imposed for non-compliance and severe penalties for using any non-approved power enhancing fuels or additives.
18.2.6 The mixing of fuels is not allowed.
18.3 Transponders (See Section 7: Timing & Scoring)

[JettaJayGLS]

So run 93 from the Gulf, got it. Thoughts on mounting the belly pan?

[Doc]

I do not think Zipties are an approved way to mount a belly pan...

[union]

I do not think Zipties are an approved way to mount a belly pan...

I used hose clamps. That is what I would suggest.

[JettaJayGLS]

I used hose clamps. That is what I would suggest.

Should be do-able, thanks.

[union]

Should be do-able, thanks.

We had to order from McMaster-Carr. I couldnt find clamps long enough but thin enough to fit through the mounts on the pan.

[CEO]

We had to order from McMaster-Carr. I couldnt find clamps long enough but thin enough to fit through the mounts on the pan.

James, when you got everything nice and tight with the hose clamps, is it all sturdy enough to continue using a dirtbike-style stand? Or might you crack the bellypan or break the mountings?

[union]

James, when you got everything nice and tight with the hose clamps, is it all sturdy enough to continue using a dirtbike-style stand? Or might you crack the bellypan or break the mountings?

its hard to say. we as going to try and modify something because I'm not sure if I trust it to go on a stand over and over

[JettaJayGLS]

its hard to say. we as going to try and modify something because I'm not sure if I trust it to go on a stand over and over

I agree. I obviously don't have it mounted yet, but I would not trust 250+ pounds on this, that's for sure...

[CEO]

its hard to say. we as going to try and modify something because I'm not sure if I trust it to go on a stand over and over

I agree. I obviously don't have it mounted yet, but I would not trust 250+ pounds on this, that's for sure...

Yeah I was just hoping that if it hugs the frame and it's nice and tightly secured then you're not really putting a lot of stress on the belly pan itself but just transferring it right to the frame. I dunno how to solve the issue other than 1. find a way to make it quick-releaseable which would be a pain in the ass or 2. sell my stand, buy spools and another set of real m/c stands, and that definitely isn't in the budget right now.

[JettaJayGLS]

Yeah I was just hoping that if it hugs the frame and it's nice and tightly secured then you're not really putting a lot of stress on the belly pan itself but just transferring it right to the frame. I dunno how to solve the issue other than 1. find a way to make it quick-releaseable which would be a pain in the ass or 2. sell my stand, buy spools and another set of real m/c stands, and that definitely isn't in the budget right now.

Dual harbor freight stands is the route I went...40 bucks each. I know its not ideal, and still money I didn't want to spend, but it seems like the only way to make it work as of right now.
I'm guessing safety wire clips would not be an acceptable way of mountain the belly pan? 4 of those would be pretty sturdy and easily removable, but not quite sure if tech would pass that.

[CEO]

Dual harbor freight stands is the route I went...40 bucks each. I know its not ideal, and still money I didn't want to spend, but it seems like the only way to make it work as of right now.
I'm guessing safety wire clips would not be an acceptable way of mountain the belly pan? 4 of those would be pretty sturdy and easily removable, but not quite sure if tech would pass that.

I don't have spools and fork sliders either though, so adding those would be another chunk of cash.

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

I don't have spools and fork sliders either though, so adding those would be another chunk of cash.

If you have hollow axles get a piece of metal rod to put through your axle for the stands and just pull it out when you take the bike off the stands.

[oldepicker]

As far as a stand, forget the prop up dirtbike ones now that the belly pan rule has made it a PIA, and the stands now unusable. Remember those triangles with the stub Honda used to give you with their MX bikes? try to find one of those. You can still lever it up to oil a chain or something. Another thing you can do is build a platform that looks a bit like a bike stand out of 2x4's. Drill a pair of holes near the top of where the spools would go on a "real" stand, big enough to slide some rod through and get a small piece of threaded or non-threaded rod big enough not to bend. Slip it through the axle, then you roll the bike onto your homebuilt 2x4 stand. If you use theraded rod you can get some nylocs on one end and wing nuts on the other so it wont fall out of the axle. If you build it with 2 bases of a 12-16" piece of 2x4 and fashion it so you can "roll" the bike backwards on it after you slip the rod inside the axle(just use 80 grit on a belt sander and do a 45 degree bevel on the end and round it off to make rolling it on easier). I bet you Motard guys could build one for about 10 bucks, and you wouldn't have to buy a $150 stand. If you are into it, but can't visualize what I'm describing, I can make a drawing and scan it into a post if you like.

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

The idea is to get both the front and the rear in the air to use tire warmers

[csmutty]

I don't have spools and fork sliders either though, so adding those would be another chunk of cash.

You're kidding right? I got mine off ebay for like $20.

[oldepicker]

Dude, I assumed the normal front stand can be used, but the rear on a dirtbike may be a problem from a swingarm width standpoint. For a front, make a 2nd if you need to, and use a 3-4 foot 2x4 to lift it in front once the rear is in. I use a loading ramp sometimes when I need to do stuff under the bike or in the front end to get it above the pad of the bike lift when fitting my little spacer blocks to keep the exhaust pipes from denting on the lift, and it works great... like when you need to pop the fork springs out if they wanna stay in, and you don't have enough preload for 'em to stick out.