RSP Racing EX#47 - newest addition to Hawk Nation :)

[Mustang]

So after thinking about picking one up forever simply due to its weirdness, I finally bought a Hawk! Like I needed another project... This one's been around Loudon for quite some time; I just need to straighten it out a bit. This will definitely be the biggest moto project I've taken on.



"Clean frame," but I can't find a VIN anywhere. Suspension has 10 laps since a full rebuild (GMD-built; unsure of springs, works "great" for a 180# rider; Fox shock w/1400# spring). 04 cbr 600rr front end with braided lines, aftermarket rotors, radial master, clipons, motion pro clutch perch and short turn throttle (with a lot of slack); Koso digital temp guage; tapered roller bearings. Frame, subframe, swinger are all powder coated black.

"Custom converted YZF radiator made by BTT." Carbs are bell mouth ported, and "properly jetted" with unipods. A custom-by-Gino wiring harness (I'll be coming to you Gino!) w/a 7series battery. Vortex gas cap, Hyperform subframe, 2bros high mount exhaust, Tyga rearsets, foldable shift leverl, VFR wheel conversion, 520 chain and sprockets. Supposedly ~7k on a stock motor.

To Do List, in no particular order

- STARTER MOTOR "has gone bad." Can I repair? Or just find a used one? I'm so clueless right now I don't even know where it is
- Sell upper/lower/tail and find a tail like John Linn's or Gino's. I assume there's no real aerodynamic benefit to having it be fully faired...

- Get front number plate
- Figure out how to mount the rear of the tank (doesn't seem to be any holes?)
- Find front tank bolt
- Desticker the frame
- Convert back from a total loss system (is there any benefit to this?)
- Hook up digital temp gauge (will this work w/a total loss)
- Pick up transponder and mount (hard wired)
- Figure out how to hook up fuel lines
- Just has vacuum fuel pump right now. Probably want to find an electric unit, install that, figure out how to wire it (though the wires are there...) (Is there any benefit to having just a vacuum setup?)


- Replace aluminum rear rotor with steel unit.
- Figure out how large of a splash of brake fluid to put in the "reservoir"


- Flush cooling system, replace with water in the spring
- Change oil/filter
- Clean/lube chain
- Straighten radiator if possible.


- check brake pads
- flush brake fluid
- GP shift already, so that's good...but need to adjust the clutch bigtime, as the wheel doesn't spin entirely freely in neutral. Could be rear brake dragging too.
- General cleaning. Get rid of all the dirt, spider webs, grass...
- Find a front fender (anything else fit a 2004-era CBR front end besides that specific fender?)
- Get and hook up a tach
- Figure out the best way to fab up a bellypan
- get frame sliders
- Determine the VIN...or at least the year. The right side of the engine has this marking: RCS1E-2002691...Any thoughts?


- WTF was this going to?


- Remove slack in throttle
....should be like this...

....not like this...


Oh, and paint. Or vinyl maybe.

No big deal. I'm sure I can get this all done by April, in my detached garage heated only by a 55k BTU salamander, while still putting the SV back together (modify and install subframe to accept an R6 tail, ensure the front end tracks straight, reinstall steering damper, install new master cylinder, install new Woodcraft goodies, water in the spring) and figuring out what part of the VFR charging system isn't working correctly. Oh, while doing taxes in addition to my "9-5". And I actually want to ski this season. Gah!







Not sure how much I trust "Bandit" warmers, but we'll give em a shot


Fuel lines, random Dzus and other fasteners, Koso gauge


Even got some oooooold rains on spare wheels

[Rada]

Looks good Bill!! That's going to be funnnnnn

[Mustang]

Getting her started will be the biggest challenge I think...at least that's in my mind right now. Once I can get her running, I can worry about the rest.

(cue lots of research on HGT into starter motors!)

[Kurlon]

Why is that bike familiar?

[Chippertheripper]

Ummm, maybe because it says Chris watt on the fairing? Dare I say, it almost looks like it might've been ajs last.

[csmutty]

Total loss takes rotational weight out of the motor and allows it to spin up faster. Its like a lightweight flywheel on steroids.

[OreoGaborio]

Wirelessly posted (iPhone 4s)

The Wattage Hawkage! Nice dude.

[a13x]

Ha! Thought it looked familiar then I saw the "Chris Watt"

[Doc]

Keep the Vaccuum Pump, Keep it total loss, get a Shorai battery, I think I have a tach kicking around. Post this on the Hawk forum.

[mzdagrl]

Oh geez, not you too.....

Looks like quite the project. You planning to race it, or use it for Tony's?

[Paul_E_D]

Stupid hawk? It needs a frame off restoration. Done by april, easy! Or just race it old school... rat bike! Duct tape and baling wire are all you need.

[Kurlon]

On the rear brake, that tube is your reservoir, you want it to show 1/2 to 3/4 full after bleeding. If you overfill it, without an air bleed it'll pressurize when the fluid gets hot which will make the rear brake drag. Drag causes heat, which causes more drag... eventually it'll lock the wheel. There should be a clamp on the bottom of that tube too, not too tight but something to ensure it stays tight FYI. I like ziptyes for that application.

[nt650hawk]

If that is Chris's bike, It has a championship pedigree

[Doc]

On the rear brake, that tube is your reservoir, you want it to show 1/2 to 3/4 full after bleeding. If you overfill it, without an air bleed it'll pressurize when the fluid gets hot which will make the rear brake drag. Drag causes heat, which causes more drag... eventually it'll lock the wheel. There should be a clamp on the bottom of that tube too, not too tight but something to ensure it stays tight FYI. I like ziptyes for that application.

Been there, done that.

Oh and keep the rear rotor or I will swap ya a steel for your aluminium.

[Doc]

If that is Chris's bike, It has a championship pedigree

Championships are over rated.

[Trouble]

Hell yeah! Congrats Bill! I'm pretty sure there's a copy of the Hawk manual bible over at the Hawk forum. Search around and you'll find it. If not, pm me. It looks like you're going to get to know that bike pretty well before the season begins. Ah, the joys of Hawk ownership...

[Marc R]

As Graham once said: low hp, low lap time bike.
Congrats & enjoy.

...
- Figure out how to mount the rear of the tank (doesn't seem to be any holes?)
- Find front tank bolt
...

Tanks are overrated, add weight. Try a camelback instead

[CBR929RE]

- WTF was this going to?

are you talking about that black and yellow thing? that was the wire from the stator to the regulator/rectifier

[Pittenger5]

The only things that will left after the apocalypse, cockroaches and Hawks.

[Mustang]

Total loss takes rotational weight out of the motor and allows it to spin up faster. Its like a lightweight flywheel on steroids.

I understand the reason behind it. I guess I was just looking for validation for putting it back to a charging bike, because I already don't like the fact that it has carbs, lol. But I haven't seen anyone tell me that's a good idea yet, so maybe it'll stay. As long as it can run an elec fuel pump, wired transponder, and tach/temp, I guess I'm OK.

Keep the Vaccuum Pump, Keep it total loss, get a Shorai battery, I think I have a tach kicking around. Post this on the Hawk forum.

Any particular Shorai? PM me when you get deets on the tach

Oh geez, not you too.....

Looks like quite the project. You planning to race it, or use it for Tony's?

Don't hate girly! Planning to race it. The one time I rode a Hawk at a TTD, I had to lean it against a wall to p/u a customer's bike. I like the kickstand on my SV.

Oh and keep the rear rotor or I will swap ya a steel for your aluminium.

I'm half thinking about keeping it b/c I never use the rear except when pitting in, but the warning of "it's no good!!" was passed on to me. :: shrug ::

[Doc]

- Determine the VIN...or at least the year. The right side of the engine has this marking: RCS1E-2002691...Any thoughts?

That is RC31E-2002691

The frame number on the steering head is gone?

[Doc]

I understand the reason behind it. I guess I was just looking for validation for putting it back to a charging bike, because I already don't like the fact that it has carbs, lol. But I haven't seen anyone tell me that's a good idea yet, so maybe it'll stay. As long as it can run an elec fuel pump, wired transponder, and tach/temp, I guess I'm OK.

Any particular Shorai? PM me when you get deets on the tach

Don't hate girly! Planning to race it. The one time I rode a Hawk at a TTD, I had to lean it against a wall to p/u a customer's bike. I like the kickstand on my SV.

I'm half thinking about keeping it b/c I never use the rear except when pitting in, but the warning of "it's no good!!" was passed on to me. :: shrug ::

Well if it is no good because it is warped then it is no good but it IS good to lose a little weight. Only listen to Hawk guys who have bee ridng em longer than 5 years.

[Trouble]

I have yet to switch to total loss. Maybe at some point I will but in the meantime I find myself trying to keep the bike and my race program as simple as possible. The less I have to worry about the better.

[Mustang]

That is RC31E-2002691

The frame number on the steering head is gone?

Yes...honestly it looks like a blank, not like it was ground off. And since the frame was PC'd, the sticker is gone.

Well if it is no good because it is warped then it is no good but it IS good to lose a little weight. Only listen to Hawk guys who have bee ridng em longer than 5 years.

Fair enough. I'll pop it off and check it with a straightedge...or see if I can find someone local with a runout gauge.

[csmutty]

Or just give tony a bottle of wine and a hammer...