Local place to lighten front and rear rotors?

[Fitz]

I found a gentleman in GA who will lighten the rear rotor for $77 and the fronts for $87 + $12 shipping. I'd prefer to keep the business local if I can. I would prefer someone who is experienced at this (for obvious reasons).

Thanks,
Fitz

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

I would not mess with the front rotors, they are fine. The guys doing 14's on SV's are running stock rotors.

I have a lightened rear I will sell you.

[Fitz]

Front rotors are off of a TL-1000. Definitely overkill for my measly laptimes. If I can swing the extra $180 I'll happily take ~2 lbs off the front without compromising braking performance.

How much for your rear rotor? Pics of the lightening? Might you know who did it?

Thanks,
Fitz

[Gecko]

If you're talking about Jimmy Chance out of Savannah, Ga, I used him for my rear rotors. I cannot say enough; did a great job. Jimmy's got tons of experience and services the WERA racing community. Very prompt ship and reliable. If you didn't mean him, then I'd suggest you give him a shout:

Jimmy Chance
Quality Machine Co
600 W Lathrop Ave
Savannah, Ga 31415
912-232-5680 office
http://qualitymachineco.com/
Jchance369@aol.com

[smf]

I would not mess with the front rotors

umm.... +1000.

I would strongly advise against messing with your front rotors. read this sentence over and over again until you understand it

The guys doing 14's on SV's are running stock rotors.

I personally wouldn't drill, cut, blowtorch, sandpaper or otherwise mess with any rotor I'm depending on for actual breaking (which makes the rear fair game ).

Here's a little tip though assuming you race an SV650. you have TL-1000 brakes on it (or that's implied anyway)... ditch one rotor and caliper. seriously. I run a 600rr front end with 1 rotor on my hawk and it's plenty of power...

fyi, for comparison unless you've got a superbike sv motor my hawk motor has at least as much power. if you're hesitant about not having enough braking power ask around. my bike stops plenty-fast.

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

Front rotors are off of a TL-1000. Definitely overkill for my measly laptimes. If I can swing the extra $180 I'll happily take ~2 lbs off the front without compromising braking performance.

How much for your rear rotor? Pics of the lightening? Might you know who did it?

Thanks,
Fitz

I had the same set-up on a Little hawk, it was overkill but a good kind of overkill. One thing to consider if you are running a slipper clutch Alot of SV;s rely heavly on engine braking. You might find the extra power to be confidence building going in on the brakes. A little bit of confidence is worth easily 4lbs off each wheel. My advice would be to ride the Bike first in a race and let the bike tell you what it needs. Trying to make global set-up changes before you race the bike often is a waste of money, you end up chasing problems that dont exist. $180 is almost a weekends entry charges.

Thats a Good solid bike Bike you got ,I used to chase Chris whitman around the track on that. I know SMF runs a 600RR front end on a hawk I think he ended up taking a caliper and Disk off one side.

I just have learned not to change things until that "thing is the limiting factor"

[KB]

umm.... +1000.

I would strongly advise against messing with your front rotors. read this sentence over and over again until you understand it



I personally wouldn't drill, cut, blowtorch, sandpaper or otherwise mess with any rotor I'm depending on for actual breaking (which makes the rear fair game ).

Here's a little tip though assuming you race an SV650. you have TL-1000 brakes on it (or that's implied anyway)... ditch one rotor and caliper. seriously. I run a 600rr front end with 1 rotor on my hawk and it's plenty of power...

fyi, for comparison unless you've got a superbike sv motor my hawk motor has at least as much power. if you're hesitant about not having enough braking power ask around. my bike stops plenty-fast.

You scare the living fuck out of me each and everytime I see you come into T3. You use the goddamn motard brake markers. It makes me cringe each time!!!

KB

[Uncle Snake]

I had the same set-up on a Little hawk, it was overkill but a good kind of overkill. One thing to consider if you are running a slipper clutch Alot of SV;s rely heavly on engine braking. You might find the extra power to be confidence building going in on the brakes. A little bit of confidence is worth easily 4lbs off each wheel. My advice would be to ride the Bike first in a race and let the bike tell you what it needs. Trying to make global set-up changes before you race the bike often is a waste of money, you end up chasing problems that dont exist. $180 is almost a weekends entry charges.

Thats a Good solid bike Bike you got ,I used to chase Chris whitman around the track on that. I know SMF runs a 600RR front end on a hawk I think he ended up taking a caliper and Disk off one side.

I just have learned not to change things until that "thing is the limiting factor"

Quality post.

[Fitz]

If you're talking about Jimmy Chance out of Savannah, Ga, I used him for my rear rotors. I cannot say enough; did a great job. Jimmy's got tons of experience and services the WERA racing community. Very prompt ship and reliable. If you didn't mean him, then I'd suggest you give him a shout:

Sweet edorsement. Ironically enough it was Jimmy I was looking to send the rotors to.

I'll probably hold off on doing anything to the front rotors. But that's just me being paranoid.

I had the same set-up on a Little hawk, it was overkill but a good kind of overkill. One thing to consider if you are running a slipper clutch Alot of SV;s rely heavly on engine braking. You might find the extra power to be confidence building going in on the brakes. A little bit of confidence is worth easily 4lbs off each wheel. My advice would be to ride the Bike first in a race and let the bike tell you what it needs. Trying to make global set-up changes before you race the bike often is a waste of money, you end up chasing problems that dont exist. $180 is almost a weekends entry charges.

All good points. I rode the back last year before the season came to an end. More recon is definitely needed however I don't consider any of these changes permanent either. I have a few spare sets of rotors.

Thanks,
Fitz

[smf]

I don't consider any of these changes permanent either. I have a few spare sets of rotors.

I'm sure you're a nice guy so no offense, but this makes me soooooo glad I'm not a NV. drop a rotor/caliper before you take a drill-press to one you rely on for braking.

[Fitz]

I'm sure you're a nice guy so no offense, but this makes me soooooo glad I'm not a NV. drop a rotor/caliper before you take a drill-press to one you rely on for braking.

Easy now. Who said anything about taking a drill press to a rotor? I already said that I'd prefer to find a shop who was experienced at this and that means water jet and a grinder. I have a drill a press in the garage. I'm not looking to randomly drill some holes and make the rotors look like swiss cheese potentially creating stress fractures everywhere.

What's your concern with removing material? Seems to be a pretty common modification on rear rotors on the WERA board and it has been done on the front also. Help a novice understand.

Fitz

[smf]

it's a common mod on the rear because it saves weight (of course) and in roadracing people typically don't use the rear rotor much, if at all. so removing material isn't a big deal since the remaining metal is not put under the stresses the manufacturer intended.

my concern is that you're removing metal from the rotors you depend on (abuse) on a regular basis. those things get horribly nasty heat-cycles into them from braking on the track. cooling in the pits, braking in the track, etc, etc.

I would be concerned that removing metal would weaken the overall structure and make it more susceptible to failure (cracking, coming apart...) while under heavy loads (think hard braking into T3)

having said all that I am not a mechanical engineer. I would strongly suggest you consult one before doing that. think worst-case here... braking hard into T3 at loudon and 1 of your rotors fails completely (cracks into a few pieces). you've lost 1/2 your braking power (actually more like 75% of the bike's original braking power since you swiss-cheesed both rotors) so what happens with then?

[a13x]

Here's a little tip though assuming you race an SV650. you have TL-1000 brakes on it (or that's implied anyway)... ditch one rotor and caliper. seriously. I run a 600rr front end with 1 rotor on my hawk and it's plenty of power...

fyi, for comparison unless you've got a superbike sv motor my hawk motor has at least as much power. if you're hesitant about not having enough braking power ask around. my bike stops plenty-fast.

In 2006 I put a GSXR front end on my Honda Hawk with dual Wave Braking rotors and dual 6-piston 1000 calipers. Halfway thru the season I dropped a rotor/caliper (saves huge weight) and the bike stopped as good as ever with just the single big rotor and single caliper.

Since both Matt Stone (Honda Hawk with my old GSXR setup up front) and Scott (Hawk with CBR600RR front end) have done the same and love it. As Scott mentioned, your SV puts out very very similar HP and Weight numbers.

If you really want to walk down this road I echo Scott and Dan's advice

1) Lighten the rear rotor via Jimmy Chance or similar. I used Jimmy Chance on my Hawk's rear rotor, dropped a pound and was great work
2) Stick with stock OEM front rotor or aftermarket Braking Wave rotor
3) Ditch a caliper / rotor on the front if you really want to drop some weight (plus it looks trick as fuck)
4) Sell extra rotor and caliper
5) Buy EBC HH pads

6) DO NOT do some 'machine shop' style-lightening to the front rotors. This is generally considered a 'bad idea'.



Actually... dude I think I have the other Braking Wave rotor tucked somewhere in a box. I originally bought two and then ditched one (as I said above) and when I sold the front end that one went with it. So I have the 'other one' just in storage. It's in excellent shape and I'll sell for short money. I think new EACH one sells for about $290.00. I'll sell my one in excellent shape for $125. About a pound lighter than stock OEM rotor according to Braking. I'm also pretty positive it fits GSXR 750/1000/TL1000 wheels (all from that era/generation). As I recall I had 1999 GSXR750 forks with 2001 GSXR1000 calipers with a TL-S1000 front wheel. All fit.

[Fitz]

Definitely some strong feelings about this on the board. I'll conform and give the single rotor/single caliper setup a shot.

Alex; how do you want me to pay for that rotor?

Thanks,
Fitz

[a13x]

Definitely some strong feelings about this on the board. I'll conform and give the single rotor/single caliper setup a shot.

Alex; how do you want me to pay for that rotor?

Thanks,
Fitz

Paypal works for me. alexander13@gmail.com

I won't be near that rotor until the weekend however, so won't be shipping it out until about a week from today. thanks.