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Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
GET OVER THE WALL!!
That sounded ugly. What ended up letting go?
-Brian
15 S-Works Venge
Let me get the pics off my camera
It's hard to tell... there was a lot of collateral damage. One crank bearing had a lot of play and I think that may have set off a chain reaction... one result is that the wrist pin sheared in half
Good news is I was doing 23's on it in practice... i'm digging for the optimistic side here![]()
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Also I have the R6 so I can still race round 8 which is nice haha
I think the head is fine... one valve had a small shaving sticking down out of it so I guess that could have damaged the seat when it got clamped in there but it didn't look like it. I need to get a valve spring compressor and pull the valve to see. Since this will basically be a winter rebuild now I would have had the head cleaned up anyways.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Even if you have to replace the valve or have one seat cleaned up that's not bad. My KTM is done for the season. It didn't stop running, but it's WAY down on power, so I'm going to go through it before something really expensive happens (the cylinder alone for mine is almost $1000). You're not going to put the CRF back together for the last race?
-Brian
15 S-Works Venge
I noticed the CRF was wayyyy down on power on the warmup lap for that race.... but I was like fuck it I'll just brake later lol
Nah the cylinder is fucked, piston cracked, crank has dings on it from the sheared wrist pin jamming between it and the cases.... it will be a winter project. Still need to figure out what can be salvaged and what I need to get, what direction I want to go with the build, etc...
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Yeah I tried the brake later, more corner speed thing. Workin my ass off for 25s, fuck that I'll end up crashing trying that.
Sound's like the motor did a pretty good impression of a hand grenade. That sucks. Best direction with motard motors seems to be STOCK with maybe a high compression piston and some minor head work. Otherwise you get to have this kind of fun on a regular basis.
-Brian
15 S-Works Venge
That's exactly what it had LOL
13:1 piston, head lightly ported, I ran C12 in it.... that's it. Stock bore, stock cam and valvetrain, etc.
It just had enough time on it I guess... almost a seasons worth. I was hoping it would last to after next race weekend but I guess not
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Yeah, that's a lot of time on a motard. Best bet I've seen is new piston halfway through the season, piston and crank bearings (possibly new crank, they're cheap enough for the Jap bikes) every winter.
-Brian
15 S-Works Venge
Well I know Silva had 3 weekends on it before he broke his leg (which is why he sold it to me), then I put on a weekend, 2 track days / open practices... so I guess that's a lot of time. Since I only do half my races on it (other half on the r6, usually 2 races on each) I hoped it would last through the end of LRRS. Oh well.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Personally I wouldn't go with a High Comp piston.
Sorry about the troubles Chris.
Last edited by a13x; 09-12-09 at 05:03 PM.
Boston --> San Diego
Cylinder wall scored by the piston coming up cockeyed. Bottom portion of the cylinder wall cracked off
Top of cylinder cracked
Wrist pin sheared in half
Damage to cases by piece of wrist pin. As long as they seal up and hold oil, is this alright??
Dings in crank from debris... should I have it lightened and balanced or just buy a new one?
The crank bearing in the case on the left had a lot of play
![]()
Last edited by CEO; 09-12-09 at 05:06 PM.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
OUCH... kept seeing references to your bike having trouble in various posts, but damn. it REALLY let go.
Looks like the small end of the rod is bent, so you'll need to get it pressed apart at he very least. Send it to Falicon, have them evaluate it. They'll tell you if the bells are any good, if it's repairable, have them weld it once it's repaired, that'll help keep it from spreading under load.
On the piston, if you're not running a bigger cam, don't bother with a crazy compression piston. If you throw a cam in you need the higher static comp to keep the dynamic compression up.
Edit: Cases are pretty beat up but should be salvageable, lucky for you they use a center case gasket so the mating surfaces don't have to be exact. Your piston oil jet got beat up, you'll want to replace that if possible. The cases have an interesting bulge where that big ding is, is there a through bolt or something in that area? Oil passage? If so inspect that area thoroughly before using.
Last edited by Kurlon; 09-12-09 at 05:35 PM.
Holy $hit.
Chris -- I'd just replace the crank and rod. You can get them for under $300. Hell, motosport.com sells a complete top and bottom end rebuild kit for under $600.
-Brian
15 S-Works Venge
damn, I've never seen a wrist pin do that. Just when I started saying I'm sick of people blowing by my on the straight I see this....maybe motor will stay stock all next year as well![]()
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