MFChop CCS #396 - 2015 ZX6R Race Bike Build

[MFChop]

The start of a new chapter, my 0 miles 2015 ZX6R Race Bike Build!

Ktech 35DDS Pro Rear
Ktech Front TBD
GPR V4 Damper
Armour Bodies
Woodcraft Rearsets
Woodcraft Stator Cover
Woodcraft Crank Case Cover
Woodcraft Idler Gear Cover
Woodcraft Clip Ons
Woodcraft Hand Guards
Woodcraft Spools
Woodcraft Toe Guard
Woodcraft Key Eliminator
Woodcraft Axle Sliders
Hindle Full Exhaust Sytem
Bazzaz Z-FI TC
BMC Race Air Filter
09+ Velocoty Stacks
Driven Blockoff Plates
Orient Express Manual CCT
Samco Coolant Hoses
Tight Tails Subframe
Motoholder Stay and Intake
Brembo RCS19 M/C
Spiegler Rennsport Front Brake Line
Spiegler Rear Brake Line
CL60 Front Pads
CL RX3 Rear Pads
Renthal Sprockets -1/+2
DID ERV3 Chain
Unlimited Superbike Rear Rotor
Fast Frank Captive Spacers
Shorai Battery
Vortex Gas Cap
Mad Scientist Pinch Bolts
Mad Scientist Caliper Bolts
Mad Scientist Rotor Bolts
Mad Scientist Sprocket Nuts
Mad Scientist Levers



Huge thanks to Gil and Sue at Razee for getting me my new bike!

- - - Updated - - -

So Saturday morning was break in day and Woodcraft day...

First I brought it down to John at Dyno solutions for a Motorman style break in Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
If you don't think its worth it to follow his procedure, just look at the oil after only 45 miles on the dyno!
Oil after break in - YouTube



Kinda pretty, shame to tear her apart


I forgot to take picture of the chart but bone stock with just the 180/60 race tire it put down 110hp, just 2 less than my 05 and has a seriously better low to mid range. My thought is after just a de-restriction and 09+ velocity stacks it will put down more than my 2005 did

Then I had all these goodies to install! HUGE thanks to Woodcraft!




Sunday morning was Spiegler / CL day doing the brakes
I installed CL60 Pads in front RX3s in the rear. Spiegler Rennsport front line and rear lines...
Fortunately knock on wood Ive only hit one hiccup so far in my build. Rennsport is a single MC banjo and I forgot to order the proper fine thread banjo.. oops



I also got all the safety wire drilling done except of the caliper bolts, the Mad Scientist will save me that headache

[CBR929RE]

I think you have the brake lines installed wrong. shouldn't it go down from the master then branch out? like the one you have on the right should go to the master. I don't see it affecting function though. just looks.

[MFChop]

Nope, they come from spiegler marked. Although they aren't supposed to wrap around the backside of the fork but I prefer them that way

If you see how the master cylinder banjo is bent the T makes sense

Edit: Damit now you're making me question it lol... Wont get a chance to inspect till Sat, good thing I haven't done the Master / fluids yet

[CBR929RE]

if they're labeled and the banjo master is at a different angle than you have them right. as long as the banjos are all bolted up tight and the lines have the clearance they need and move freely when turning the bars then you're good. the fluid will flow the same.

[MFChop]

So todays work

I got around to installing Woodcraft Stator cover and Key Eliminator harness..





As usual Woodcraft stuff fit perfectly and is ready to go!

After that I took care of the intake side of things, installing block off plates



In my usual fashion if you know me I love race farkle so I wrapped the air box in DEI Gold Heat Delfect because if you cant go fast you gotta look cool


Then I swapped out my velocity stacks for 09+ and dropped in a BMC Race Filter


And that wrapped up the intake side of things

Then I pulled my rear shock out and swapped in a Ktech DDS Pro


And thats about it for now.. I pulled the factory exhaust off in preparation of a Hindle Full exhaust system from Woodcraft. Cant wait to weight the OE vs. the Hindle

Still to do are Front Forks, Bazzaz, GRP, Gearing / Chain, and paint my Armour Bodies

[MFChop]

Minor update...

Stop by The Mad Scientist Moto's laboratory today and picked up some Levers and Titanium Pre-Drilled Bolts. I've been using his levers for 5-6 years now with zero complaints. And his Ti pre-drilled bolts are awesome. www.MadScientistMoto.com

[Tekime]

Beautiful. I'm about to order me up some Mad Scientist levers for the gixxer too, liking the price.

[MFChop]

Today I got back into my garage and had a full Hindle exhaust system waiting for me courtesy of Woodcraft Technologies

The quality is great even includes a pre-welled bung if you need to run an O2. I opted for the ceramic black but you can go with one of 4 different cans



Just on the weight savings alone, I saved almost 10lbs! Im sure with the carbon fiber or titanium can you will save even more
OE System

Hindle


Installation was pretty straight forward..





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPuj_8nyHy4

You can get your own at Hindle Exhaust

[MFChop]

Had to swing by the track today and do a bunch of tire / wheel swapping.... So while I was there and the wheels were off I picked up Fast Frank captive spacers from a local vendor..

What makes them so much better than other copy cats out there is that if you notice they are beveled which allows them to be guided in

[Pigman]

Spin your sliders so the head of the bolt is forward facing....so when if it happens to hook and bend you can get the bolt out and the derlin slider off. Put a bar in there and bend it back and then you are able to replace the bolt.........

[Woodcraft]

Looks great! If you need any advice / things I've learned along the way, don't hesitate to ask.

[MFChop]

Looks great! If you need any advice / things I've learned along the way, don't hesitate to ask.

Thank you, I greatly appreciate it.

I was actually talking to Weyant about gearing for NHMS specifically -1/+1 vs -1/+2...

[MFChop]

Well this has been stagnate for a little while but another piece to the puzzle came in today!

[Woodcraft]

Thank you, I greatly appreciate it.

I was actually talking to Weyant about gearing for NHMS specifically -1/+1 vs -1/+2...

I liked 15-44, but you had to really ride it hard to make that gearing work in Turn 1 and turn 6. 15-45 is also a good choice.

[MFChop]

I liked 15-44, but you had to really ride it hard to make that gearing work in Turn 1 and turn 6. 15-45 is also a good choice.

Thank you, Ill have to start with the 15-45 and see what works best for me

[MFChop]

So I got around to installing the Bazzaz yesterday....

First I installed a servo buddy to eliminate the FI light and exhaust servo motor supplied by Woodcraft Link


The Bazzaz install is pretty straight forward however there are two aspects to this install I was not particularly a fan of.

1. Bazzaz instructs the power supply be tapped using a Scotchlok, these are the devil! So a good old fashion solder guarantees Ill never have a power disruption to the unit



2. Bazzaz is designed to be installed at the rear of the tail in the trunk. Im not a fan of this because in my opinion it puts it in a vulnerable location to damage in the event of a high side. So thanks to the room freed up using the Servo buddy its now nestled lower down under the seat.



I have the newest version of the Bazzaz system that includes a strain gauge with the USS system. My bodywork is not in yet so I havent been able to decide the optimal location for the USS module


Special thanks to my mechanic for giving me a hand too


Still have a long but simple list of things to do but I have till end of April to get it all buttoned up

[loudbeard]

I'm going to assume you heat shrink'd that solder joint, yes?

[MFChop]

Nope

I went to MMI I know what Im doing here chief

[loudbeard]

Oh well why didn't you say so? Was it difficult getting into MMI? I understand some folks get confused between "push" and "pull."

[number9]

The Bazzaz install is pretty straight forward however there are two aspects to this install I was not particularly a fan of.

1. Bazzaz instructs the power supply be tapped using a Scotchlok, these are the devil! So a good old fashion solder guarantees Ill never have a power disruption to the unit

I gotta be honest, I'm not sure I like that solder joint any more than I'd like a ScotchLok.

You want to twist the wires together to make a mechanical connection first, like this. (Ok, that link is admittedly on the anal side.)

Then you solder that to ensure a good electrical connection. Then you heat-shrink. Then, if you're a belt-and-suspenders type of guy, you seal it with electrical tape. Done.

[Jim]

Swapping velocity stacks makes the bike SS illegal.

If Kurlon sees this, he'll bitch about the captive spacers too. But no one else cares about them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kurlon]

On the velocity stack question, I've got this tidbit from 2010:

"Hello Charles,

We have ruled that velocity stacks are part of tuning and not covered as long as they do not form the seal between the carbs and the airbox. If they do form that seal, they are part of the airbox and need to remain as produced. (This is a gray area and I know it has been a tough one for everyone.)

Hope that helps.

Kevin Elliott
Director of Operations ASRA/CCS
P.O. Box 121278
Fort Worth, Texas 76121
817-246-1127
817-246-2977 Fax"

Based on the pics it doesn't look like the stacks form the seal between the box and throttle body so no conflict. I'll have to check the rulebook but I don't think there is anything outlawing captive spacers in SS?

[Jim]

On the velocity stack question, I've got this tidbit from 2010:



Based on the pics it doesn't look like the stacks form the seal between the box and throttle body so no conflict. I'll have to check the rulebook but I don't think there is anything outlawing captive spacers in SS?

I haven't seen a modern (EFi I4 motor) airbox that didn't have the stacks built in. The only way to swap the stacks is to modify the OEM air box.

I'd make a guess that his stacks aren't SS legal.
Granted he's probably only riding at NHMS and the minimal gains won't make a difference on the small straights.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kurlon]

The key isn't 'built in' it's weather or not the stacks are the seal between the box and the throttle body. For example, on my R6 (2003, 2nd Gen, EFI) they are not the seal, they are a separate snap in piece inside the airbox. As per KE's distinction swapping them is SS legal as I can remove them and the seal between the airbox and the TBs isn't impacted, that's a separate part with a separate OEM PN.

[MFChop]

Small victory today.... GPR installed



More work tomorrow... and before anyone asks yes I have blue tank now, why.. because I sold my mint Green one for $500 and bought a scratched up one for $200