recommended Loudon gearing for a 600?

[feralchimp]

New-to-me 2007 600RR could use a new chain, so I'm thinking of doing a 520 conversion. Recommended f/r sprocket sizes for Loudon?

-Jared

[Jim]

shoot a PM to Brett, he races the same bike.
let me find his user name....


CBR929RE

[Pigman]

48 Hi Breeeeeeeeeeeetttttt

[KB]

I would run 52 rear and 12 front. That will launch like a son of a bitch!!

KB

[CBR929RE]

I think I'm running 15/46. I'll go check later today just to make sure.

[feralchimp]

I would run 52 rear and 12 front. That will launch like a son of a bitch!!
KB

LOL

[feralchimp]

I think I'm running 15/46. I'll go check later today just to make sure.

Thanks Brett, much appreciated.

[Kitt]

-1 F
+2 R

you can go up on the rear once you get "smooth" down pat.

[CBR929RE]

I just checked. I'm at 15/45. that's -1/+3

[feralchimp]

Yeah Kitt, the 600 is enough more power that "extra torque" when it comes on might be a bad thing.

[CBR929RE]

Yeah Kitt, the 600 is enough more power that "extra torque" when it comes on might be a bad thing.

if the chain and sprockets aren't bad then run them for awhile. I ran with stock gearing for awhile and it wasn't bad.

[butcher bergs]

Factory gearing should suit you just fine considering your current lap times. That is not a bash on you but I saw your post in the goals thread and IMO there is absolutely no need to adjust your gearing at this point in time.

FWIW; I went to box-stock gearing as a personal test and picked up nearly 2 seconds without trying.

[Kitt]

I have to disagree with the stock gearing supporters here, loudon gearing will help your shift points be "more correct". Why run stock gearing and train yourself to be in the wrong gear throughout the track?
For instance I know with stock gearing, there's very little chance I'd be in 4th down the back section.

[CBR929RE]

I have to disagree with the stock gearing supporters here, loudon gearing will help your shift points be "more correct". Why run stock gearing and train yourself to be in the wrong gear throughout the track?
For instance I know with stock gearing, there's very little chance I'd be in 4th down the back section.

I would agree with this if he was only looking for small amounts of time. but from what I gather he's on a new bike looking to improve over 10 seconds. His shift points are gonna change a bunch the faster he gets regardless of what gearing he's using.

[butcher bergs]

I'm not saying I support stock gearing but in this case what is there to be gained from using short gearing when someone is hoping to break into the 20's down from something like 40's?

I hear you on being in the wrong gear however, with factory gearing, the rider will be forced to learn to be on the gas much earlier than his competitors in order to get an equal (or better) drive with the difference being that it will be easier to control. When the gearing is shortened as race craft and experience become more honed, the rider's brain has already been trained to be on the gas early which will then lend itself to reducing lap times.

IMO, there isn't much sense in sending a new rider out on aggressive gearing with the hopes that they learn how to handle it.

Gotta crawl before you can walk....least that's the way I'm looking at it.

[csmutty]

I'll be running a 47. Most either run a 46 or 47 from what I have heard.

[union]

I'll be running a 47. Most either run a 46 or 47 from what I have heard.

the yamaha is a bit different then the 600 rr. my r6 was gutless below 10k. need the big sprocket to keep it moving

[Kitt]

Bergsy - I don't consider -1 +2 aggressive, the factory gearing is garbage, I can agree to disagree. If I could go back and do it all over again knowing what I know now... Factory gearing STILL wouldn't be a part of the equation.

Smutty - Under 18's you'll want to mod that... Although me running the r6 was like 2 smutty's running nut to butt. Union said it though, the R6 is the only time I've felt like I was on an I4 2-stroke... it likes throttle and gearing.

[Pigman]

Gearing has no relationship to Lap time, or skill level SRRY.......It has to do with having the bike in the sweet spot for the HP Curve and maximum power and available traction and condition. .And the reason why some will gear it down in wet conditions and low traction. Just as you wouldn’t run a 60th at VIR and at a kart track you could......

[csmutty]

Bergsy - I don't consider -1 +2 aggressive, the factory gearing is garbage, I can agree to disagree. If I could go back and do it all over again knowing what I know now... Factory gearing STILL wouldn't be a part of the equation.

Smutty - Under 18's you'll want to mod that... Although me running the r6 was like 2 smutty's running nut to butt. Union said it though, the R6 is the only time I've felt like I was on an I4 2-stroke... it likes throttle and gearing.

What would I want to go to if I get under 18's? Bigger?

[butcher bergs]

Bergsy - I don't consider -1 +2 aggressive, the factory gearing is garbage, I can agree to disagree. If I could go back and do it all over again knowing what I know now... Factory gearing STILL wouldn't be a part of the equation.

No argument from me. Everyone finds their own way. Only reason I posted was because I see a lot of people who think they need to toss parts at a bike in order to get lap times down which simply isn't the case.

I look at what I am doing on a stock 2002 F4i as the basis of my opinion. I have nothing on that bike other than suspension and a couple of bolt ons. No shift assist, no gearing, OEM ECU and yet there I was just barely outside of 17's without even thinking about it.

10 year old stock machinery leading a pack of modded 2008's.

Gearing has no relationship to Lap time, or skill level SRRY......

False.

You spend enough time rowing the gearbox due to short gearing, guess what, lap times are going to be negatively affected. The part where skill level comes in is when the bike leaps out of a corner (short gearing) as opposed to gently exiting (tall gearing). Think about it from the standpoint of a new-ish rider. Which one would you find easier to control? The bike that leaps out of a corner the instant the gas is on or the bike that will conservatively approach and run thru the power band?

[Kitt]

What would I want to go to if I get under 18's? Bigger?

When I got into 16's I started needing just a touch of an extra gear here or there... I found myself holding to redline some laps to save an extra 2 shifts (but this is obviously costing me some speed). So in order to make it worth the shift, I geared up and was able to get a good drive out of that higher gear...

This is something I could have benefited from earlier on.

The gearing worked into the 14's with no issues.

My rain wheels had a 45-47 depending on full wet or not.

10 year old stock machinery leading a pack of modded 2008's.

Put your dick away... I went 4/4 with wins in supermoto last year, I didn't think it was because I was running an inferior bike set-up... Just that I was not in the right class.

[Pigman]

No argument from me. Everyone finds their own way. Only reason I posted was because I see a lot of people who think they need to toss parts at a bike in order to get lap times down which simply isn't the case.

I look at what I am doing on a stock 2002 F4i as the basis of my opinion. I have nothing on that bike other than suspension and a couple of bolt ons. No shift assist, no gearing, OEM ECU and yet there I was just barely outside of 17's without even thinking about it.

10 year old stock machinery leading a pack of modded 2008's.



False.

You spend enough time rowing the gearbox due to short gearing, guess what, lap times are going to be negatively affected (Hense Proper gearing to the Track) . The part where skill level comes in is when the bike leaps out of a corner (short gearing) as opposed to gently exiting (tall gearing). Think about it from the standpoint of a new-ish rider. Which one would you find easier to control? The bike that leaps out of a corner the instant the gas is on or the bike that will conservatively approach and run thru the power band?

And as stated before if the gearing is right from the get go you will much better siuted to be faster then Stock gearing and not getting the same drive out of the turns as others....

[csmutty]

When I got into 16's I started needing just a touch of an extra gear here or there... I found myself holding to redline some laps to save an extra 2 shifts (but this is obviously costing me some speed). So in order to make it worth the shift, I geared up and was able to get a good drive out of that higher gear...

This is something I could have benefited from earlier on.

The gearing worked into the 14's with no issues.

My rain wheels had a 45-47 depending on full wet or not.



Put your dick away... I went 4/4 with wins in supermoto last year, I didn't think it was because I was running an inferior bike set-up... Just that I was not in the right class.

Ahh ok I'll feel it out then. Thanks.

[KB]

What would I want to go to if I get under 18's? Bigger balls?

Yes Christian BALLS BIGGER BALLS!!

KB