86 ninja 600 help

[Cgouin]

Anyone in the providence area know of a cheap mechanic, i took the bike to adrenaline cycles, and got a quote of 1200+ for adjusting the valves and carb cleaning and a fluids change, to me this seems a little extreme, need some help before i just say to hell with it and sell it.....

[Cgouin]

Gonna try the Sea Foam .......thanks Ryan lets see if that works.......then i will just need someone to shim the damned exhaust valve!

[stoinkythepig]

Your engine has screw and locknut valve lash adjusters. There are no shims and it's very easy to adjust. You only need a flat screwdriver, a 10mm wrench and a set of feeler gauges. I highly recommend getting a factory service manual.

The carbs can be a bitch to remove and install, but there are some tricks. Take the tank off and carefully note the choke and thottle cable routing from the handlebars all the way to the carbs. Make sure you can put it back together exactly the way they are now. Pictures would be a good idea. Disconnect the throttle and choke cables at the handlebar ends so the cables can stay on the carbs. Lossen the carb hose clamps on the head side. Roll the spring clamps on the air box side toward the air box. Straddle the bike and work the carb bank back and forth and up and down until the carbs loosen up on the head side. The air box boots are flexible enough to fold out of the way as the carb bank slides out the side.

Take the carbs to a mechanic for clean out. Should not cost much.

For re-installation, remove the air box boots and toss them in the oven set to 200 degrees F while you attach the carbs to the head. Install the now warm and supple inner two airbox boots first. Get them completely installed before attempting to install the outer boots which should have been left in the oven until needed. Note that the boots have a protrusion in them that matches a notch in the airbox holes. This has to line up. You can do it by feel.

[Cgouin]

the only thing the shop was using was a stealer gauge!

[Ericthejet]

Another tip.
While removing the carbs, leave the slackened cables in place until the carbs are free of their mounts. You will be able to move the carbs once free and get a better view of the cable ends attached to the carbs. It is a bit easier due to space limitations when they are still in place compared to when they are free.

When I reinstall my carbs I use a bit of wd40 to "grease" the carbs bodies that fir into the head as well as the rubber holder. I have found this makes it a much easier task when working them into place.