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SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

  1. #1
    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    I need to do some basic maintenance that I haven't done before, and I have some questions.

    1. What is the deal with converting to a 520 chain for an SV? Is this a "must do" for a race bike? Do I need anything other than new sprockets to make this happen? I already need a new chain and rear sprocket, so this is probably the time to do it.

    2. I also need new brake pads. I figure I should probably get something a bit fancier than stock since it is now a pure race bike. Any suggestions? I know nothing about race brake pads, going to start googling/looking on SVrider. I currently feel like I need to use a lot of force when braking (3, maybe even 4 fingers), I would like to be able to use 2 fingers.

    Thanks in advance.

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  2. #2
    Have you seen my baseball GingahNinjah's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    If you are going to go to 520 you need new 520 width front and rear sprockets to match the new chain. for pads on the SV check out DP Brakes. I like their pads good feel and stopping power. other people really like Vesrah as an option

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  3. #3
    Get Weird! maxim_X's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Unless your pads are way toast or really junky braking force isn't going to change much unless you change your master. It's pricey, I did mine, but I'm not in love with my new accasato. The stock seemed to feel better to me, even if it was a harder pull. 520 chains won't make a noticeable difference, but the is no reason not to do it. The whole setup will be a bit lighter, and if you need a chain and rear sprocket you may as well get the front to match and go 520.

    Brake pads seem to be a personal decision. Some people love how one pad feels and hate another, and vice-versa. I ran EBC HH pads last season, and I tried the oh so special Carbone Lorain cl59s in the first round. I can't tell much difference, except maybe the CL are a tad more bitey initially. I will go back to EBCs when it's time. They only way to know what you like with that stuff is to try it out.

    Edit: do yourself a favor an go 15-46 until you hit the limiter with that setup. Then go back to a 45.

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    Last edited by maxim_X; 05-04-15 at 12:04 PM.
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  4. #4
    Lifer
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    I don't understand the chain swap thing. But then you are just as experienced a racer as I.

    Brake pads are like oil, everyone has their favorites. I believe I have Vesrah pads in mine. Brakes have been great by my math. Very confident. Very good feel. At least in my limited experience.

    I was just about to replace them with a set of the CL C59 pads. Although I just got an email that they are at least 2 weeks out. So probably not so much for May.

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  5. #5
    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by maxim_X View Post
    Edit: do yourself a favor an go 15-46 until you hit the limiter with that setup. Then go back to a 45.
    Interesting, were you doing the shift pattern we talked about at round 1 with the 46 rear? I do the same shifting, but with a 44 rear. I bet it will make a huge (positive) difference going to the 46.

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  6. #6
    Have you seen my baseball GingahNinjah's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    44 is too low rear gearing for the SV is either 45 or 46. 46 reportedly offers a better drive out of turns if you arent good at carrying corner speed

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  7. #7
    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by GingahNinjah View Post
    44 is too low rear gearing for the SV
    Ya, mine has plenty of life left, really just replacing for the gearing.

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  8. #8
    Bikeless in Blackstone The Snowman's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by maxim_X View Post
    Edit: do yourself a favor an go 15-46 until you hit the limiter with that setup. Then go back to a 45.
    THIS! I ran this setup on my G1 and never went to 45 rear, unless I was doing NJMP. I was running low 18's and hit a couple of high 17's with it. This setup also allows you to go through the bowl without the need to downshift on and upshift out ( a HUGE selling point, IMO!)

    As for chain pitch, if you're doing the whole kit and kaboodle, save yourself some weight and convert to 520.

    Brake pads (all subjective), I used Carbone Lorraine CL-60 pads, distributed by spieglerusa.com (I also use their SS brake lines). Great initial bite and the whole braking range, with no fade, even in a GTL.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GingahNinjah View Post
    44 is too low rear gearing for the SV is either 45 or 46. 46 reportedly offers a better drive out of turns if you arent good at carrying corner speed
    Brian, did you ever try the 46 rear, as I suggested?

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  9. #9
    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Do I need to get a different number of links to account for the added sprocket teeth? If I use the same length chain, this will reduce my effective swingarm length, decreasing rear ride height slightly, correct?

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  10. #10
    Day late, dollar short carsick's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    You're gonna make this into more than it needs to be. New 520 chain and sprocketS 15-45 or 46 if you're a stuntah. Buy quality, rivet that shit, do it once and don't think about it again.
    Brake pads are like tires, all different brands and everybody has a different opinion. Most manufacturers have a range from $15 junk up to $150 stops like an anchor while glowing red hot. Racier = grippier = lasts less. Good race pads will give you less lever effort because they have a higher coefficient of friction. Changing to a higher grade of fluid (if old stuff in there now), deglazing the rotors, cleaning/rebuilding the calipers/slides, cleaning/lubing the lever pivot and where it pushes the piston, changing to braided lines, will each give small increases in stopping power and feel. I think rotors and a master cylinder are very expensive upgrades with not much return at LW AM NHMS speeds. I use EBC EPFA pads and they grip pretty hard. I bought an Accosatto master, and thought the stocker wasn't too bad in retrospect.

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  11. #11
    Bikeless in Blackstone The Snowman's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    15/46 w/ a 108 link chain is what I used. The rear wheel only has so much travel front to back, per it's design, so don't worry about swingarm travel.

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  12. #12
    Lifer
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Hmm.. a sprocket will make me faster eh?

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  13. #13
    Bikeless in Blackstone The Snowman's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    The 46 rear will help you get a better drive out of corners if you over-brake, like I have a tendency to do.

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  14. #14
    Powered by Kurtz theducman's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    I run a 46, I like it lots

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  15. #15
    Lifer
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Peer pressure is a helluva thing. I just ordered a 46t sprocket. Let's see what that does.
    I really will try anything once.

    I really did think the gen 2's just had motor on me.

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  16. #16
    Bikeless in Blackstone The Snowman's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    OOTB, G2 have more HP. But the G1 are usually better candidates for Superbike builds.

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  17. #17
    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by carsick View Post
    You're gonna make this into more than it needs to be.
    This is my MO. It's great, I stress as much as I can about basic prep/maintenance/shit that doesnt matter, then the actual riding is relaxing by comparison!

    Lots of suggestions for EBC HH, not so much for EPFA. What gives? Why wouldn't I want the full-on race pads?

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  18. #18
    Lifer
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Because they are more expensive?!

    Email me or message me or something before round 2 and I'll be sure and pack the chain tool. I don't normally pack that.

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  19. #19
    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    Because they are more expensive?!

    Email me or message me or something before round 2 and I'll be sure and pack the chain tool. I don't normally pack that.
    Thanks, will do. That reminds me to remind you to remind me to bring some of my leftover Tygon for your rear brake reservoir. I should probably just throw it in the toolbox tonight before I forget.

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  20. #20
    Lifer
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Turns out buying the tubing with the spring clips and a nice cap wasn't that expensive. STG had a nice all-in-one kit. I piggy-backed it on another order I was placing anyway. Will be nice to do away with the ghetto hose clamp setup I have now.

    If I'm not careful, this fugly duckling of mine is going to almost look presentable.
    Quick, let me crash it!

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  21. #21
    Super Moderator OreoGaborio's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Petorius View Post
    Do I need to get a different number of links to account for the added sprocket teeth? If I use the same length chain, this will reduce my effective swingarm length, decreasing rear ride height slightly, correct?
    You're talking millimeters.

    I have my axle pretty much all the way forward with a 15/46 or 15/45 setup.


    EBC HH are junk compared to Vesrah RJL or Carbone Lorraine C60

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    Last edited by OreoGaborio; 05-05-15 at 11:32 AM.
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  22. #22
    Bizarro Zoolander Petorius's Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    I'm having trouble finding the chain I want (DID ERV3) with less than 120 links. Is it hard to chop links out?

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  23. #23
    Lifer isaac_'s Avatar
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Petorius View Post
    I'm having trouble finding the chain I want (DID ERV3) with less than 120 links. Is it hard to chop links out?
    I bought DID ERV3 with 120. Not difficult to remove links with the right tool. I opted to keep as many links as possible. This would allow to go +1 in the rear at some point (I'm on 45 teeth in the back) without compromising the chain. I did Rd1 and last 2 days like this and no problem. I think I ended up removing 6 links? I also kept the links and bought spare master rivet links if I needed to put more back in.

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  24. #24
    Lifer
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Petorius View Post
    I'm having trouble finding the chain I want (DID ERV3) with less than 120 links. Is it hard to chop links out?
    Places like SprocketCenter you can get one cut to length. But it's no big deal to cut a few links out. If you can remove your existing chain, you can cut a section from your new one. Use the old one for practice if you're nervous.

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  25. #25
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    Re: SV chain/sprocket and brake pad questions

    I was surprised when I got that email Sunday morning especially since I'd placed my order in the 1st week of April. So much for "in stock, 2 day shipping".

    Quote Originally Posted by nhbubba View Post
    I was just about to replace them with a set of the CL C59 pads. Although I just got an email that they are at least 2 weeks out. So probably not so much for May.

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