Broken Camshaft Holder

[ChicknStripEatr]

This is the 3rd valve clearance inspection I've performed on my 99 ZX-6R, bike has just clicked 40K miles. Upon removal of the valve cover I take notice of a crack in the camshaft holder between cylinders 2 & 3. Looking at the parts diagram provided by Kawasaki made me suspicious that this part can not be purchased as a replacement. A quick call to Razee's confirmed my thoughts, the camshaft holder and cylinder head are essentially "married" in the factory and it is ill advised to swap these components.

As usual I was given some great advise from the guys at Razee, I was told that these pieces have been welded for them before however the shop that has performed this work for them is no longer around. If I am unable to locate a highly skilled aluminum welder then I should start scouring the boneyards for a complete cylinder head.

My first question to the NESR community, is there knowledge of an individual in New England that can perform this type of work?

Second question, I guess I should start compiling a list of boneyards that might stock a complete cylinder head for my 99 ZX-6R? I know I can find a ton on Google but I'd like to know which ones are recommended.

Pics attached for your viewing enjoyment.

Thanks in advance.

[dontpanic]

I'd think that would buff right out.

[Chippertheripper]

Whenever we need aluminum welded, these guys get out business.
The owner is a Harley type guy, so maybe he'll take pity, and burn it for ya, even though it's not his bread and butter.
http://ttopsofnewengland.com
Worth a call, at least.

[loudbeard]

Really delicate weld here. I don't weld aluminum very well at all, certainly not anything this intricate. If it were my project, I would build a jig to secure the cam ladder to while welding to prevent warping. I guess the point I'm making is the expense of having it properly welded my very well exceed the cost of replacing the head.

[Degsy]

I would never have that welded.

I can tell you why it cracked if you aren't aware.

[Kurlon]

I would never have that welded.

I can tell you why it cracked if you aren't aware.

I'm curious.

[Danz19899]

I'm always a fan of if its not broken don't fix it. Was the bike running properly before you found this issue. It may be difficult but adjust the valves as needed, make sure you torque those bolts properly and it will run like nothing ever happened. if it were going to fail it would have already. Not a ton of stress on that point.

Any welding could warp/alter the way it seats with that cams and that would be very bad.

[stoinkythepig]

I was able to get a complete head on eBay for my 01 ZX9R for around $100 including shipping. I would do that. There's one for a 99 ZX6R on eBay right now for 79.99 or best offer and $35 shipping The head is very easy to change. You only need a head gasket, you can re-use the cylinder base gasket. If you do go this route, you'll probably find that it's much easier to support the engine and lift the bike off of it rather than "drop" the engine out from the bike.

[Paul_E_D]

I would JBweld that. I have done it before. I cracked one by torqueing it down before everything was seated properly.

[Degsy]

I'm curious.

Usually, it's from not having the timing in the spot the book says when replacing the cam ladder and/or not tightening the bolts sequentially and a little at a time.
Tightening the bolts in the order stated in the manual won't help if the crank and cams are not in the correct position for that sequence.

[ChicknStripEatr]

I'm always a fan of if its not broken don't fix it. Was the bike running properly before you found this issue. It may be difficult but adjust the valves as needed, make sure you torque those bolts properly and it will run like nothing ever happened. if it were going to fail it would have already. Not a ton of stress on that point.

Any welding could warp/alter the way it seats with that cams and that would be very bad.

This thought process also seems to be the consensus among a few of the mech. engineers at work....

[ChicknStripEatr]

I would JBweld that. I have done it before. I cracked one by torqueing it down before everything was seated properly.

This may be the course of action....

Although, replacing the entire head still isn't out of the question like Stoink recommended. Thanks for the heads up about lifting the frame off of the motor vs. "dropping" it out.

Usually, it's from not having the timing in the spot the book says when replacing the cam ladder and/or not tightening the bolts sequentially and a little at a time.
Tightening the bolts in the order stated in the manual won't help if the crank and cams are not in the correct position for that sequence.

Thanks Degs, great advise as usual.

[MHenry600]

Think of it this way. If you spend the time and money to replace the head now, how much will it save you vs having to replace the whole motor? I'm of the same theory in if it's not broke don't fix it, but it's pretty clearly broke. If you put everything back together the way it is and it grenades in 1000 miles because of the head, that would suck. Then again, maybe you put it back and it runs for thousands of miles more, who knows. If it's a gamble that seems worth it, go for it.

[Degsy]

It's a crap shoot but I'm a risk taker and I'd put it back and slink away with fingers crossed. I'd lightly ball - hone that journal first. Very lightly.

[Paul_E_D]

I would JB weld the crack on top installed, let it harden, then take it off and jb the underside. Re-install and enjoy the bike. I would, and I have done this very thing. No regrets, no troubles at all.

[Tricky Mike]

Yeah, I wouldn't weld it either. I *might* be tempted to braze it, but I'd probably end up with Paul's method.

[ChicknStripEatr]

Update: Used a dremel to make a slight channel in the piece along the fault line to give the JB Weld something to hold on to. Applied the JB Weld and it sat for several days before I could get to it. You can see the channel and the finished product. I took extra care of tightening the cam shaft holder back on to the cylinder head, the repair held under that strain of being compressed back on to the head.

Thanks again for the pointers.